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The new look.

ryanfay said:
I think I did the microsquirt connector wrong. I think you’re supposed to feed the wire through the plastic part of the connector then crimp and push it back in.

I crimped first then shoved it in. Now all my pins have rubber bits all wedged between everything. I’ve been picking it out with welding wire. It’s been a pain in the ass but I think that might be part of the issue. Doh
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You're supposed to crimp, then insert. You do need to pop the wedge lock out first, but don't pry on the little tabs... use the corners.

The AMP seal connectors are trash. They're cheap, which is why they're on everything.
There's like 7 on each tractor, I hate them.

 
@ryanfay give all of the cables a wiggle and a tug. There's a chance that you didn't get them fully seated if the wedge lock isn't popped off. If they pull out you can reinsert them without issue.
Make sure they're all aligned and you can see them through the red part when the lock is pushed down. I've seen some weird stuff.
 
bobxyz said:
You need to release (or remove) the wedgelock piece before inserting the pins from the back:
(and there are other videos too)
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Crazy but I did it exactly right! Only these are female pins with little delicate tabs. They didn’t gracefully slide through the rubber holes. It was more like a hole punch and the rubber was all jammed in the hole
 
ryanfay said:
Crazy but I did it exactly right! Only these are female pins with little delicate tabs. They didn’t gracefully slide through the rubber holes. It was more like a hole punch and the rubber was all jammed in the hole
Click to expand...
The hole punch is actually how they are sealed from water. You actually pierce a silicone membrane with the contact, and it reseals around the wire. If you put a contact/cable into the wrong hole, they make plastic tapered pins that you should install in that hole to seal it. Otherwise the connector can fill with water.
 
culberro said:
The hole punch is actually how they are sealed from water. You actually pierce a silicone membrane with the contact, and it reseals around the wire. If you put a contact/cable into the wrong hole, they make plastic tapered pins that you should install in that hole to seal it. Otherwise the connector can fill with water.
Click to expand...
Well mine didn’t go through gracefully. It took some with it and it looks like pieces of pencil eraser lodged in it. My compressor ran out of oil otherwise it would’ve been handled.
 
ryanfay said:
I think I did the microsquirt connector wrong. I think you’re supposed to feed the wire through the plastic part of the connector then crimp and push it back in.

I crimped first then shoved it in. Now all my pins have rubber bits all wedged between everything. I’ve been picking it out with welding wire. It’s been a pain in the ass but I think that might be part of the issue. Doh
Click to expand...
I had the same problems with the fuel pump - started with the sounds, then nothing. Checked all voltages, leads, and chased it back to the fuel pump relay, as I had no sign of life at the fuse box, did some tests from the green book, nothing. It turns out, I was going in the wrong direction. The post connections were off on one of the plastic posts. Plastic brittle. I monkeyed around with the and put it back with no plastic after a poor crimping job. Still nothing. So I cut the old thing off altogether and bought new posts with wire from somewhere (ebay I think) and spliced them in. FIXED. While it seems logical that jury-rigging it would solve the problem, the voltage wasn't exactly right. I'll see if I can find my ebay purchase and post it here.

(ps In tracing I assumed since I was getting 12v out of the posts, it still would have been good with the jury-rigg. Nope.)
 
Claudia5 said:
I had the same problems with the fuel pump - started with the sounds, then nothing. Checked all voltages, leads, and chased it back to the fuel pump relay, as I had no sign of life at the fuse box, did some tests from the green book, nothing. It turns out, I was going in the wrong direction. The post connections were off on one of the plastic posts. Plastic brittle. I monkeyed around with the and put it back with no plastic after a poor crimping job. Still nothing. So I cut the old thing off altogether and bought new posts with wire from somewhere (ebay I think) and spliced them in. FIXED. While it seems logical that jury-rigging it would solve the problem, the voltage wasn't exactly right. I'll see if I can find my ebay purchase and post it here.

(ps In tracing I assumed since I was getting 12v out of the posts, it still would have been good with the jury-rigg. Nope.)
Click to expand...
Ya I need to find some time and grovel down under the dash and try to clean it out
 
OK, I'll do a brief write up for the JimStim wiring later today. If it's not too late, you could try posting in Wanted for a JimStim. They're really nice to use to learn about tuning, and how to run TunerStudio, from the comfort of your desk chair. But once the car is running, the JimStim just collects dust.
 
bobxyz said:
OK, I'll do a brief write up for the JimStim wiring later today. If it's not too late, you could try posting in Wanted for a JimStim. They're really nice to use to learn about tuning, and how to run TunerStudio, from the comfort of your desk chair. But once the car is running, the JimStim just collects dust.
Click to expand...
I ordered the unassembled kit yesterday. I’ll get it together as soon as it comes. Thanks in advance!

I also got the ecu pigtail connector from Ali. I started soldering it in last night until my shoulder started throbbing because it’s under the dash now.
 
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