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The Tick Brick a 1993 960 Wagon

At about 400,000 kilometres it’s in not bad shape.

Righto - what is this oil burning smell?
It’s hitting the top of the exhaust manifold cover.

PCV test - passed the glove over oil filler cap test.
Heated the motor up, drove it, got it doing some real work. Put it in Park, left it running, hood open, oil filler cap off, glove over top - yup it’s got healthy vacuum drawing the glove in.

Where is the oil coming from.
Valve cover gasket looks like the source.

Right then; had a look under the top engine cover - the glorious 24 valve statement piece.
It is certainly going to need attention to properly protect the coil packs and wiring.

https://imgur.com/a/tKZVMpE

Then there are the fasteners; a few seem to be stripped. Guess this is why three of 6 bolts were in place; including one who cannot be removed ( the T30 …, what is the term… dent in the top of the bolt where the driver bit goes in to turn it is now a circular dent).

Puddles of oil. Crud.
Creative connector repair. Crud.

https://imgur.com/a/L8b31VA

The valve cover gasket replacement looks like an interesting operation when there is an OEM tool to this job.

https://imgur.com/a/I9eZZmu


Can I have one of these covers 3D printed that is robust enough for sitting atop a whole lotta heat?

https://imgur.com/a/gquXcci
 
Thats usually just the oil filler cap seal leaking. I'd start with replacing that seal and cleaning up the oil. Make sure to check if the spark plug wells are not full of oil.

And maybe look into replacing the coil connectors/ wiring, common problem. Dave Barton sells a good quality replacement harness.
 
Appelsap said:
Thats usually just the oil filler cap seal leaking. I'd start with replacing that seal and cleaning up the oil. Make sure to check if the spark plug wells are not full of oil.

And maybe look into replacing the coil connectors/ wiring, common problem. Dave Barton sells a good quality replacement harness.
Click to expand...

Ah - yes I had read about the oil filler seal - going to order one.
It will be interesting to see if that is a part of the problem. The path from the oil filler cap to the spaces under the cover on the top of the motor look like it wouldn’t dribble in directly - but as a fluid, I assume oil would act like water and wick along edge and go wherever it wants to.

I hadn’t even thought about leaks where where piece 10 sit on the valve cover.

https://imgur.com/a/ndoupJ7


I wasn’t sure if Dave Barton had b6304 harnesses - I will take a look.

The spark plug wells are going to be an adventure - I should film what I find.
 
oldschoolvolvo said:
You don’t need the whole harness just the section to repair the coil connectors.

Dave's Volvo Page - Volvo Wiring Harnesses 960 and S90

Dave's Volvo Page. Volvo 960 and S90 engine wire harness project.
www.prancingmoose.com

Good luck with your project, nice to see a 960 getting some love.
Click to expand...

Coil Replacement Harness ordered and on it’s way,

Dave's Volvo Page - Volvo Wiring Harnesses 960 and S90

Dave's Volvo Page. Volvo 960 and S90 engine wire harness project.
www.prancingmoose.com

Engine cover ordered from a fellow Canuck on eBay and on its way.
 
Repairing fastener holes in an Aluminium head.
Crud.
Do I try and carefully tap new holes for where #12 bolts in the diagram go and use new fasteners in such a delicate place?

6 fasteners hold the 960 engine top cover in place.
Stripped threads in 3 of the 6 bolt holes, which explains why only three were holding it in place!
One bolt head is toast.

https://imgur.com/a/rP2mMBa
 
Today:
Got the air box temperature flapper set to use the cold air only - it was stuck using the warm air feed.
Found out I have a rev limiter - auto trans does not like to shift.
Found out cruise control works.
Discovered a rust hole beneath the airbox. Seems to be where a fastener attaches the fender liner to the fender was.

https://imgur.com/a/rO3iD61
 
jmiles said:
The valve cover gasket replacement looks like an interesting operation when there is an OEM tool to this job.
Click to expand...
There is no valve cover (in fact cam cover) gasket to replace.

The cam cover oil sealing is done by anaerobic sealant (p/n 30644517) applied by a roller (p/n 9512767). The head and cam cover gasket surfaces need to have the old gunk scraped off and be perfectly clean before doing The Roller Thing.

If whoever took off the cam cover didn't do a proper job of it, it will leak and drip and make a stinking bloody mess. (I found this out the odorous way, after the shop who did the head gasket stuffed it up).

Fortunately FCP Euro stock a kit - 9512767KT - which includes the sealant and the roller. Note: the sealant has an expiry date.
 
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