They say my clutch is dead

[Sinbad the Sailor]

For the last week I have had problems getting the car in gear. It has been getting steadily worse. Yesterday with the pedal all the way to the floor it will not go into 1st or reverse unless I turn the car off or speed match the gears. I had to drive to school and just when I got there I pushed in the clutch and there was a pop and the pedal didn't return to it's normal position. It is sitting about 2-3 in off the floor and whenever I press the pedal there is a whirring sound like something metal is pressing against the flywheel.

I went to a mechanic Friday and they said the clutch is shot and there is a spring and shavings laying around when they opened it up. I was only there for like an hour so I am kinda skeptical about what they "opened up" in that time and were able to put back together in 10 min. Before all this I was having the same problem and I went to my mechanic back home and he just adjusted the clutch cable and problem solved for like 2 months.

So what do you guys think it is? The mechanic quoted me 1400 for the clutch job (400 for parts and 1000 for labor) and I don't have that kind of money right now. So I need to know if this is either something I can fix (if it isn't the clutch) or if I need to get a beater until I can afford to get it fixed.

 

[Fivehundred]

Those symptoms could equally well be caused by a stretching clutch cable that then broke. Crawl under the car and see if the cable is present, correct and pulling the release arm.

(1000 bucks is nuts for a clutch change, you can do it in 4 or 5 hours lying on your back on a car on stands, less in a workshop with a lift)

 

[dl242gt]

What they are ripping you off about is the price for that clutch job. It shouldn't be more than $5-600 at any shop that can replace a Volvo clutch. The parts only cost about $150 at the most unless they are buying them from Volvo and well that's dealer pricing. Anyway as mentioned first you should check to see if the clutch cable is broken. If it is then all you have to replace is the cable. Be sure to buy only the metal armored type clutch cable like your original. Not the rubber covered one with the plastic threads for adjustment.

If the clutch cable is fine then your clutch is going to need work. But I'd shop around to other places to find a more reasonable price for clutch work.

 

[Sinbad the Sailor]

They also wanted $240 for the clutch cable. Also there is absolutely no slipping or chatter or any other weird noises when in gear. And when I had my mechanic adjust the clutch cable before he said that he had adjusted it all he could.

I went out and pulled on the clutch cable and there was about 2-3 inches of play but that was just the outside sheath. I guess since I don't have a jack I could disconnect the cable on the inside and give it a pull. If it is broken it should pull all the way out.

 

[240on280]

If money is an issue, the cables with the nylon adjusters will work O.K. for a while - I'm using one. They cost about $40, I've been quoted $300 for the factory one.
Have you noticed if your "change up" arrow light has stopped working? This stops working if the cable is stretched.
Another thing that could have happened is the rubber block that goes on the end of the cable may have split in 2 causing the excess travel.
Unfortunately your clutch may well be gone but the $1,400 price is way too much. I think they lied to you about opening it up unless they ran a fiber-optic cable into the bell housing and did some kind of laparoscopic surgery . If they found a spring inside the bell housing, the clutch plate must have disintegrated or somebody left a spring in there.

 

[Sinbad the Sailor]

I just went out and disconnected the clutch cable from the pedal and pulled it through the firewall. The cable is not broken as I could move it and see it moving the clutch fork, but it could be stretched as it was previously adjusted to max adjustment.

With the cable disconnected the pedal should be fully up. Right? Mine's not so I'm guessing broken spring.

 

[shellshock]

Pressure plate cracked. Ask me how I know:

 

[stefanapolis]

Could be a broken clutch fork too. Had this problem on my 744. The clutch fork was worn and the pivot ball stud punched thru it. Same symptoms you describe, pop and funny pedal feel. I'd get under the car and check it out yourself. Plus I've never paid more than $500 for a clutch job on a Volvo.

 

[Sinbad the Sailor]

Just got an alternate form of transportation and picked up my jack and stands. Time to get dirty!