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thick boy wheels, worth the hassle?

mikep said:
“Wider” is the word you are looking for in wheels.

Look for proper wheels. Read some older threads.
If you find a set up that needs spacing, read some threads about longer studs. Install, add spacers, bolt wheel/tire combos on.
Click to expand...
having a hard time finding the wheel width i want without having to get spacers. i can find the bolt pattern i need just fine, but they all have 30-35 mm offset.
 
I think you will be happier starting with 7-8” wide in standard offset, with 250-350lb/in wheel rates. Stock 19-20 to 22mm front bar, 17mm wagon to stock 19-20 rear bar.
Dampers can be upgraded after starting with what you have or something a bit better.
Get some negative camber in front, neg 2ish. 3-4 caster.
Build a lower chassis brace out of a piece of conduit.
Party on.
There is always time for more stuff later.
 
mikep said:
The rear springs act as 1.5 times their rate on that rear axle in vert together. So a 200# spring in rear matches a 300# in front. It’s because the springs are hung out behind the axle.
Click to expand...
what if one plans on using BNE’s rear coilover conversion kit 👉👈
 
One should start cheaper.
If you need a more precision scalpel for corner carving, go for the high dollar stuff.
This is more like chainsaw work.
 
mikep said:
One should start cheaper.
If you need a more precision scalpel for corner carving, go for the high dollar stuff.
This is more like chainsaw work.
Click to expand...
high dollar like different platform? and i’m not wanting corner carving per say, just snappy handling (for a brick)
 
A couple thoughts on the wheel/adapter thing. Ben can redrill the front hubs to change the bolt pattern (although the offset obviously wont change), and if you are changing the rear, the axles can be whatever bolt pattern you want. Pretty sure you can play with the length to change the rear offset a bit as well. I'Ive found (in my limited experience) is an offset of 0 to 6 will allow a good bit more width.
It's pretty hard to find that offset in most bolt patterns unless you get a pretty expensive set of wheels.
You need to know what you are using for calipers while making these decisions. R brakes, the 6 piston Brembos, etc kill any hope of a dished wheel.
 
LaneLikesHis244GL said:
brakes is the one thing i haven’t done very much research about. looking at BNEs medium brake conversion for the front but as far as rears i’m not seeing a whole lot that isn’t just new rotors and pads.
Click to expand...
STS is working on a rear wilwood kit that matches their front, so stand by for that.

Regarding all the wheel spacer/adapter stuff: I’ve used wheel adapters in rally, and you have to make sure they’re tight after like 50 miles of racing. They can work, but there’s less margin for error when dealing with high loads.

Custom wheels aren’t that much more expensive and they’ll fit perfectly.
 
cosbySweater said:
I have done a quiet a few Ls swaps and the last one I did is my daily. I left everything bone stock as far as the suspension and everything. I drive it for a while with the stock wheels with new tires and slowly started upgrading from there when I found what I wanted to improve. Don’t do too much all at once, a lot of us on here have done that for sure. Lol
Click to expand...
Stop looking at me like that!
 
lil update as far as what i’ve found:
found some decent wheels (kansei KNPs) but the only 5x108 option i’ve seen is 18x8.5s, and i was gunning for 17s as i think 18s can look a little goofy, plus tire fitment would be easier with 17s. someone here mentioned STS coming up with a rear brake kit to match their front soon, and i was wanting to hop on that as well. i wanna keep the 5x108s to keep all the aftermarket brake stuff i’ve been seeing, but i’m wondering if it’s worth having the hubs redrilled for a more popular bolt pattern.

there’s always the option of the cheap vors set i’m seeing on ebay, 17x8s with 35 mm offset (they also have a staggered set of 17x8/17x9 with a 35/30 offset).
 
LaneLikesHis244GL said:
lil update as far as what i’ve found:
found some decent wheels (kansei KNPs) but the only 5x108 option i’ve seen is 18x8.5s, and i was gunning for 17s as i think 18s can look a little goofy, plus tire fitment would be easier with 17s. someone here mentioned STS coming up with a rear brake kit to match their front soon, and i was wanting to hop on that as well. i wanna keep the 5x108s to keep all the aftermarket brake stuff i’ve been seeing, but i’m wondering if it’s worth having the hubs redrilled for a more popular bolt pattern.

there’s always the option of the cheap vors set i’m seeing on ebay, 17x8s with 35 mm offset (they also have a staggered set of 17x8/17x9 with a 35/30 offset).
Click to expand...
to the point of the hub redrilling, would it be reasonable to get rotors with the exact same dimensions as the ones in the kits except for having the “new” bolt pattern?
 
If you look at the page for the hub redrilling it explains the rotor fitments. Often we use the R rotor. For example, a 5x144.3 bolt pattern needs a very slight adjustment to the holes to fit, just a bit of grinding.
www.bneshop.com

240 Redrilled Front Hubs

This product is a modified 240 front wheel hub that allows for alternate Bolt Circle Diameters (BCD). These can be very useful for the mounting of wheels intended for other vehicles, especially for vehicles with rear axle swaps that may have different BCD in the rear than in the front. The hole...
www.bneshop.com www.bneshop.com
 
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