First off, get the correct Tilton part for the job. For 8.5" clutches used with the STS lightened flywheel you'll want a 52mm bearing face. Do not buy the Tilton model 60-6104 for the T5 with a flat face, clutch engagement will suck. If you did get the Flat face bearing, return it and get part number 60-6032. Failing that, you can get the universal kit which is 60-6000, but you will need to have the threaded sleeve machined to fit the T5 input shaft retainer (also does not include the anti-rotation pin, get the 60-6032 if at all possible). Do not mix and match pistons from other kits in an attempt to fix the problem. From Tilton support:
"The main body, piston and bearing are different. If the 52mm bearing/piston were installed into your current 60-6104 HRB, it would not be able to sit down in the main bore because we use a HRB body with a taller inner guide tube for all our 6100-Series HRBs with a flat-face bearing in order to get more available stroke for use with the larger OE-type clutches.
The part number for a 52mm bearing version of the HRB would be 60-6032."
Here's a pic of the difference between a 52mm bearing and piston sitting in the 60-6104 housing at rest and the correct 60-6032 (60-6000) setup below. Note the difference in the amount of piston exposed with an attempted retrofit. This, with the recommended bearing clearance settings (3.17mm), can leave the piston close to its end of travel. There's a chance your setup will pop the piston before full clutch disengagement and piss brake fluid all over your fancy clutch setup. Guess what? You're ripping everything out again...
Could be a problem....
That's the correct kit at rest position.
Here's a comparison shot of the two bearings and pistons, you can see how much travel you lose when you look at the installed photos above.
Flat face 60-6104 versus 52mm 60-6032
If you're using some other size clutch, I recommend a consult with the guys at Tilton to get the correct setup the first time. Technical@tiltonracing.com
While I'm on it, the T5 input shaft retainer has to be cut down no matter what release method you use. For use with the Tilton threaded sleeve I would recommend a steel bearing retainer, as it sits back further than the aluminium versions.
Aluminum on the left steel on the right. Notice the base height difference? (60-6000 threaded sleeve in the background, requires machining)
You can then machine the steel retainer to the length of the Tilton sleeve and have plenty of adjustment. If you do go with the aluminum retainer you may need to shorten the Tilton threaded sleeve as well.
Retainer trimmed to 40mm , sleeve fits on perfectly (not pictured).
Don't forget to set up the bearing properly for clutch wear. Instructions come with the kit and there are countless vids on youtube as well. This setup also requires a pedal stop which is also covered in the instructions and online. Failure to set properly can lead to a real fustercluck.
For my setup I used a Deeworks adapter plate and a bellhousing machined by Ben at Kaplhenke Racing LLC. At first I was all set to leave it be, but Ben machines his housings for use with his adapter and leaves a lip (with a very sharp edge I might add) to index his adapter. Nothing wrong with that, but one of the nice things about the T5 swap is that you can remove the transmission without removing the bellhousing. That is the worst part of the M46 setup in my opinion, rotating that damn thing to get in or out is a PITA. Unfortunately, the lip can cause the bearing assembly to get caught up during install with the bellhousing mounted to the engine first. In comes the half inch carbide burr.
You just need to open the bellhousing to the same dimensions as the adapter plate
Inside view
Installed
Finally, during install be very careful to not stress the hydraulic lines coming off the bearing assembly. Feed the lines through the old clutch lever opening and check clearance often to insure you're not beating the hell out of anything. I used the Volvo rubber grommet from a clutch cable setup, wrapped rubber around the lines and threaded eveything through the cable retainer on the bellhousing. Lines were then zip tied in place a la Turbobricks.
In retrospect I would have reversed the grommet...
For a master cylinder you could probably go for .70 but I'm running a .75. Pegasus Racing has Girling and OPB units that work great for this setup in the stock location.
Girling
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3500
OPB - cheaper but made in the UK and uses same rebuild kits as Girling.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3519-102
(Just a note, first one was DOA... never had an issue with the girling units.)
Side note: If using a custom one piece driveshaft the correct rear flange yoke is the Spicer 2-2-329 for a 1310 u-joint. For cars with the 14mm cap bolts and locknuts.
Side Side Note: T5 vibrations and gear decel noise got you down? Check this thread.
Hope somebody finds this useful.
Pricing info:
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing $382.50
Girling Master Cyclinder (0.70 works well) $134.99
Figure another $50.00 for misc. hardware and a braided stainless -3AN line to hook the master and Tilton HRB together.
There are masters that are a lot cheaper, read the thread fully.
It's not TB cheap but I'm glad I did it.
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