sloopy
2-digit whp
- Joined
- May 25, 2020
- Location
- North Texas
Oh right. That makes sense. I guess you want the upper hose to be the bleed hose.
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Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing and T5 notes
- Thread starter carver
- Start date
Stiggy Pop
In the cool kids club
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2011
- Location
- Granville, MA
correct, the Tilton installation instructions are really good and cover this.
Greg Wong
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Boston/MA/USA
So why do the different bearing faces change the weight of the clutch pedal? And does this have any effect on the modulation of clutch engagement?
I am running the flat face because that's what the description said was correct for regular diaphragm clutches. I thought it felt good already, but if I can get it even lighter, that would be nice. (I have the 60-6104)
I am running the flat face because that's what the description said was correct for regular diaphragm clutches. I thought it felt good already, but if I can get it even lighter, that would be nice. (I have the 60-6104)
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
It changes the fulcrum point so that there’s more mechanical advantage on the diaphragm
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
Just installed mine (Tilton 60-6034 slave with a Wilwood 260 .7" master) and bled it (have not driven yet). In my experience, this is lighter than the 5/8" master with 740 3/4" slave that I was running before, but not by much. Definitely a world of difference compared to the completely stock 260 setup (3/4" master, 3/4" slave). Jury's out on whether the travel is shorter than what I had to deal with before. I'm gonna still call it heavy compared to a modern car, though.
For context, this is with a Yoshifab 235mm FX-250 clutch setup.
For context, this is with a Yoshifab 235mm FX-250 clutch setup.
Ginger Ninja
Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2011
- Location
- Australia
Just a quick question about Tilton 6000 part numbers are there are a couple of different ones listed here. For best results do I use the 60-6032 for a Ford Top Loader or the 60-6034 for the B/W Tremec T5? Or are both acceptable?
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
One uses a metric stud, the other one uses an SAE stud. Use the 6034.
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2005
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama
I had a lot of issues using these tilton throwout bearings on Randy's flyin' moose car using M90 trans. We went back to the oem style and have never looked back.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
Figured piggybacking on Sam's comment was a good a time as any to give an update:
Replaced a worn out Yoshifab clutch with a new unit. The pedal weight issues disappeared with the new pressure plate and disc. I'm suspecting there may have been either a defect or a significant difference in construction between what I have now and what was in the car before.
The pedal is now very light. What used to take 100-125 lb of pedal force to disengage the clutch has gone down to 20 lbs or so. I can release it with my hand without much trouble.
Other noticeable difference is that the thing disengages right at the top of the pedal. Feels like the first 30% of pedal actuation releases the clutch, and the remaining travel just overextends it. Will shorten the pushrod length and add a pedal stop to mitigate this. Unfortunately it will make the clutch pedal's resting position much further away than the brake. Guess I can change the resting angle of the middle pedal to be more in line with the accelerator now and make for a bit more legroom.
Replaced a worn out Yoshifab clutch with a new unit. The pedal weight issues disappeared with the new pressure plate and disc. I'm suspecting there may have been either a defect or a significant difference in construction between what I have now and what was in the car before.
The pedal is now very light. What used to take 100-125 lb of pedal force to disengage the clutch has gone down to 20 lbs or so. I can release it with my hand without much trouble.
Other noticeable difference is that the thing disengages right at the top of the pedal. Feels like the first 30% of pedal actuation releases the clutch, and the remaining travel just overextends it. Will shorten the pushrod length and add a pedal stop to mitigate this. Unfortunately it will make the clutch pedal's resting position much further away than the brake. Guess I can change the resting angle of the middle pedal to be more in line with the accelerator now and make for a bit more legroom.
Blockheadsquarewheels
New member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2019
I have the 60-6032 with a tkx in my car. Tenaci clutch (sachs243) obp master cylinder.
I love it. Bled super easy, feels great.
It you have a tkx(or TKO) they are supposed to be very sensitive to bellhousing runout. The T5 is supposed to be much more forgiving.
If using a TKX I think removing the lip from the adapter is not a great idea. Its your main locating datum. I machined my bellhousing for a tight slip/loose press fit kind of feel. T5/t56 maybe doesn't matter so much.
I love it. Bled super easy, feels great.
It you have a tkx(or TKO) they are supposed to be very sensitive to bellhousing runout. The T5 is supposed to be much more forgiving.
If using a TKX I think removing the lip from the adapter is not a great idea. Its your main locating datum. I machined my bellhousing for a tight slip/loose press fit kind of feel. T5/t56 maybe doesn't matter so much.
DavePolyakov
Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2020
- Location
- Shoreline, WA
I'm preparing to do this conversion, this thread has been immensely helpful. I have two questions, what length braided hose is ideal to route to the master?
Secondly, I have cable clutch setup currently, I think installing this pedal would be my best bet (only option without extensive modification?). I notice a difference between the stock Volvo master and the Girling / OBP, do they require modification to fit to the pedal?
https://www.mkmotorsport.se/product...wZwXV-KXwOwgyFepKc_aem_4ZrW-XR8xAgljP4_rcbj6w
Secondly, I have cable clutch setup currently, I think installing this pedal would be my best bet (only option without extensive modification?). I notice a difference between the stock Volvo master and the Girling / OBP, do they require modification to fit to the pedal?
https://www.mkmotorsport.se/product...wZwXV-KXwOwgyFepKc_aem_4ZrW-XR8xAgljP4_rcbj6w
Last edited:
GTJordan
Been here for too long
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Edmonton AB
I got a 24" line on my 240. I also have a dry break in there that is about 3". It is too long. I probably should have went with an 18" line.
DavePolyakov
Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2020
- Location
- Shoreline, WA
I want to post some info on the Deeworks Kit with the custom bearing retainer and bearing sleeve installed. The OD of the throw out bearing sleeve is ~1.258 and the ID of the threaded sleeve for the bearing is ~1.433. I assume the stock sleeve on the stock retainer must be a tighter fit than this; I do not have one on hand to check.
Also, a hole would need to be drilled and tapped for the anti rotation stud. I assume in this original post, Carver has used this plate with the stock retainer and has machined the large hole in the bellhousing to allow use of the stock retainer that works with the hydro bearing. In Stiggy Pop's post, I am unsure what adapter plate is being used, but I see that he has the same issue here with the stud (or lack thereof). I'm curious as to how that problem was solved, as I don't see a solution in the pictures.
I believe my current options are to see if BNE can machine my bellhousing to make it work with the Deeworks plate, and then install a stock bearing retainer. I think this gap could be remedied with another sleeve that fits over the sleeve in the bellhousing to make a snug fit. I do not have access to a lathe until January and want to keep this project moving though. Or, I just get a stock hydraulic setup using the clutch fork.
In hindsight, I would have just gone with the BNE adapter plate + machining service to begin with as installing this would be a non-issue.
Deeworks custom bearing retainer:
Deeworks throwout bearing sleeve in the bellhousing:
Here is the seemingly excessive gap between the Deeworks bearing sleeve and the threaded sleeve from the Tilton Bearing.
Also, a hole would need to be drilled and tapped for the anti rotation stud. I assume in this original post, Carver has used this plate with the stock retainer and has machined the large hole in the bellhousing to allow use of the stock retainer that works with the hydro bearing. In Stiggy Pop's post, I am unsure what adapter plate is being used, but I see that he has the same issue here with the stud (or lack thereof). I'm curious as to how that problem was solved, as I don't see a solution in the pictures.
I believe my current options are to see if BNE can machine my bellhousing to make it work with the Deeworks plate, and then install a stock bearing retainer. I think this gap could be remedied with another sleeve that fits over the sleeve in the bellhousing to make a snug fit. I do not have access to a lathe until January and want to keep this project moving though. Or, I just get a stock hydraulic setup using the clutch fork.
In hindsight, I would have just gone with the BNE adapter plate + machining service to begin with as installing this would be a non-issue.
Deeworks custom bearing retainer:
Deeworks throwout bearing sleeve in the bellhousing:
Here is the seemingly excessive gap between the Deeworks bearing sleeve and the threaded sleeve from the Tilton Bearing.