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Trying to take the pan out of my 1990 Volvo 240

F

fgaith

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2022
Location
Baltimore Maryland
So I am trying to remove the pan out of my 1990 Volvo 240 but it just won’t come. I have to remove it so that I can weld in a bung for my turbo return line. I have the engine lifted a couple inches and the pan is rotated about 90 degrees toward the passenger side of the car. The problem is that the oil pump won’t let the pan come out. Any suggestions?
 
Support the engine from above... I had to disconnect the rear transmission bracket and both engine mounts... but it was enough to turn the oil pan 90 degrees and remove it.
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740atl said:
Support the engine from above... I had to disconnect the rear transmission bracket and both engine mounts... but it was enough to turn the oil pan 90 degrees and remove it.
136590986.jpg
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I was able to get the pan turned but my issue was that the oil pump was making it so I couldn't pull it off. did you just hoist it high enough that it came off easily or was it just a really long struggle
 
It does take some wiggling. I wanna say in one case I just removed the pump with the pan.

Also too late now, but I've found it easier just to drill the block for a +t turbo oil drain.
 
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James M said:
It does take some wiggling. I wanna say in one case I just removed the jump with the pan.

Also too late now, but I've found it easier just to drill the block for a +t turbo oil drain.
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You do it in the car?
 
Sourwould said:
You do it in the car?
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I should specify I pull the pan with the car on a lift.

I have drilled the block with the motor in the car twice, definitely not ideal but I'd still rather do that than pull the pan to weld a bung (exspecially if I'm sticking with a TD04 and can just run a stock drain tube)
 
James M said:
I should specify I pull the pan with the car on a lift.

I have drilled the block with the motor in the car twice, definitely not ideal but I'd still rather do that than pull the pan to weld a bung (exspecially if I'm sticking with a TD04 and can just run a stock drain tube)
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I meant the block drilling.

Do you not get a bunch of iron in the engine? This is pertinent to my current desires.
 
Sourwould said:
I meant the block drilling.

Do you not get a bunch of iron in the engine? This is pertinent to my current desires.
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I cleaned the hole repeatedly as I went to avoid as much of it going into the pan as possible, then fished some out with a magnet, then flushed with a BUNCH of drain oil.

Maybe not the best solution, but I was in highschool last time I did it and that's not what killed the motor anyways :e-shrug:
 
I had to swing the subframe out of the way, I couldn't get the steering shaft to release from the rack, which was annoying.
had to finagle the brake lines, non-abs car so dual lines per side, unbolted the swaybar, backside of the control arms etc etc.

and then getting the pump around the baffle in the stock pain was such a pain, I had to carefully put my hand between the pan and block to feel where the pump was getting caught up.
 

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T101 said:
I had to swing the subframe out of the way, I couldn't get the steering shaft to release from the rack, which was annoying.
had to finagle the brake lines, non-abs car so dual lines per side, unbolted the swaybar, backside of the control arms etc etc.

and then getting the pump around the baffle in the stock pain was such a pain, I had to carefully put my hand between the pan and block to feel where the pump was getting caught up.
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This of course was with supporting the engine from above / lifting it a few inches.
 
As T101 states, best way is with upper engine support, but if you don't have an upper support, or the means of supporting from above, it can be done on jack stands, and using a floor jack at front pulley. Either way, I usually take motor mounts off of the block mounting brackets, and unbolt lower brackets from the sub frame, unbolt sway bar from top of links, remove the 3 bolts (each side) from the rear of the lower control arms, disconnect steering knuckle at rack, remove rear bolts for front sub frame, then carefully unscrew the front bolts to all but the last few threads, and don't forget to remove fan shroud screws, and pull shroud back, and just let it sit on the fan. This all gives you just a little more room to get that last little bit of pan rotation to clear the oil pump. As T101 said, you usually have to reach up in there to feel where it gets caught up, remember the orientation for when you're going to be putting the pan back up in there, with your new pan gasket, so it doesn't get damaged. Good luck!
 
I have drilled the block which was a real pain. The last two times, I used a punch (I know sounds crude) and punched it the hole. Then I used a tap with grease on it. Then Installed fitting with epoxy on it. I have to say that neither leaks and is holding up great. I was prepared to pull the pan if things went south. I flushed the engine really well and fished a magnet in the oil pan to be sure I left no metal particles.
 
I drilled my pan with a shop vac running right next to drill bit covered in Vaseline in slow spurts wiping and reapplying vas. No issues
 
I've drilled and tapped a stripped drain plug in an engine block with the engine together with no issues. Grease the drill bit to catch chips, go slow, and I poured the used oil back in to flush anything else out that I could. I wouldn't advise that though, it was this or tear the engine down. You can also get a magnetic drain plug which might continue to catch some chips.
 
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