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Volvo 940gl still no heat.

Boxtoy940 said:
To put EMPHASIS on the words to get your attention; WORKS Everytime..
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No, it's just frustrating me because it doesn't seem like you understand what I'm saying...

I keep saying the gauge has only moved when I see my DIGITAL temp gauge says 250+, which my 3 700/900 cars have all done ONLY when there was a SMALL issue that was REMEDIED (ran low on coolant, bad rad cap, ect. ALL have been FIXED. NO issues with my COOLING SYSTEM). AND I keep wondering HOW you know EXACTLY what temp your gauge moves at, because not many people have an AFTERMARKET DIGITAL TEMP GAUGE that gives them EXACT temps as they are driving down the ROAD. Do you KNOW that if your cars HIGH SPEEN FAN turns on that means your car has ELEVATED TEMP of 220°, a temperature that on a 240 gauge would show as 3/4 in the gauge? Have YOU spoken to other 700/900 owners in PERSON with AFTERMARKET DIGITAL TEMP GAUGES and heard the same story of the gauge not moving until way too late?
 
Sorry if I seem aggressive, you are just keeping repeating that my car is just fucked up, but you are not telling me how you KNOW exactly what temp your car is always at, and how you KNOW what temp your gauge is moving. Because I KNOW, whenever I drive my digital gauge tells me EXACT the exact temps the engine is. You keep arguing the same case, without stating any FACTS that you have.

Sorry OP
 
Didnt feel any wind blowing reading your words...I simply shared my insight to a situation; would have never thought that a Temperature conversation would bring about a meltdown...You KNOW your car and its yours..
 
I believe you stated your ANSWER in your ranted post..."Digital gauge Read 250* im my 3-7/900 have ALL done "ONLY" when there was a small issue that was REMEDIED (ran low on coolant, bad cap,ect etc)....Theres your solution, you can Cool Down now..
 
Question? Are there any Negative side effects by Not having a Heater core/Exchanger im the loop of the cooling system; afterall, its just a small radiator that helps dissipate heat..Say you are boosting strong and really got your foot through tbe floor, that gelatinous water of a coolant will be hot enough to defeather a chicken..The Missing Heat Remover could possibly play a role as well...After all, the engineers saw a Need for it to be plumbed in at the given Stock levels so without a doubt, this could be a Needed crucial component, especially if modified beyond factory specs...
 
Boxtoy940 said:
Question? Are there any Negative side effects by Not having a Heater core/Exchanger im the loop of the cooling system; afterall, its just a small radiator that helps dissipate heat..Say you are boosting strong and really got your foot through tbe floor, that gelatinous water of a coolant will be hot enough to defeather a chicken..The Missing Heat Remover could possibly play a role as well...After all, the engineers saw a Need for it to be plumbed in at the given Stock levels so without a doubt, this could be a Needed crucial component, especially if modified beyond factory specs...
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I would seriously doubt that the heater core is necessary to pick up radiator slack outside of extreme overheating scenarios like towing in a traffic jammed highway on a hot day, but that's a fringe case. Consider that under normal circumstances the heater core will not really be doing any cooling when it would be most needed, ie on a hot day. I have a smaller radiator (with clutch fan) in my 91 and I have had no overheating issues outside of my water pump belt flying off due to neglect
 
Boxtoy940 said:
I believe you stated your ANSWER in your ranted post..."Digital gauge Read 250* im my 3-7/900 have ALL done "ONLY" when there was a small issue that was REMEDIED (ran low on coolant, bad cap,ect etc)....Theres your solution, you can Cool Down now..
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I never came here because I had cooling issues. I came here talking about how the temperature gauge does not respond quickly in a 700/900 series. The rant is because you seem to have never read any of my posts. You came with an argument that your car's temp gauge doesn't move because you don't have cooling issues. When I'm telling the OP that the gauge does not move even when you have cooling issues. Even with this your last post you fail to see what I'm saying
 
Ok, Google lists the Fan, thermostat, radiator amd water pump as Reasons for an engine NOT circulating the coolant...Im putting my CHIPS on the unmentioned Radiator on this one...I would simply remove it from the brackets and let some aluminum safe radiator flush soak in there for a few days to maybe loosen up some debris...If its clogged, there will be a small but noticeable difference in the weight of the radiator in comparison to one that is not clogged...Just food for thought.
 
Newer 700 series and all 900 series have compensator board in temp gauge which makes it move nice and linear, and also pretty-much unrelated to actual temperature. It will start going up around 40°C, right around 60°C it eill move towards the middle and stay there until 110°C, then just shoot towards right.

Good thing for swedish school teachers in the 1980's and thick skulls, but nothing that's going to help the OP, who probably ran away by now.
 
Update: I’m pretty sure I have a blockage in the hardline/hose that goes from the heater core to the water pump. I flushed 5 gallons of water through the heater core in both directions, after a 30 min fill & soak with CLR. Nothing of note flushed out. Water flows through the core with no restriction. Here’s the interesting thing.

I blow into the disconnected coolant line from the head to the firewall and I can hear coolant bubble. I try that on the hose to the hard line and nothing. It’s as if it’s totally plugged. I tried using a vacuum pump to suck coolant out of this line and nothing. I think I’m going to run a hose from the heater core exit straight to the overflow tank on the radiator and bypass the hardline all together to check for coolant flow. I have a clear 5/8” hose I will use for the test. If coolant flows I’ll have to pull the hard line and replace it if needed.

Has anyone replaced the hardline on a b230f (no turbo) with the exhaust manifold still on the car? Is it possible to leave the waterpump and exhaust on the car while replacing this line? I really really don’t want to have to pull the manifold. It was a fiasco with broken studs the last time.
 
Jressman said:
Update: I’m pretty sure I have a blockage in the hardline/hose that goes from the heater core to the water pump. I flushed 5 gallons of water through the heater core in both directions, after a 30 min fill & soak with CLR. Nothing of note flushed out. Water flows through the core with no restriction. Here’s the interesting thing.

I blow into the disconnected coolant line from the head to the firewall and I can hear coolant bubble. I try that on the hose to the hard line and nothing. It’s as if it’s totally plugged. I tried using a vacuum pump to suck coolant out of this line and nothing. I think I’m going to run a hose from the heater core exit straight to the overflow tank on the radiator and bypass the hardline all together to check for coolant flow. I have a clear 5/8” hose I will use for the test. If coolant flows I’ll have to pull the hard line and replace it if needed.

Has anyone replaced the hardline on a b230f (no turbo) with the exhaust manifold still on the car? Is it possible to leave the waterpump and exhaust on the car while replacing this line? I really really don’t want to have to pull the manifold. It was a fiasco with broken studs the last time.
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Just use penetrating oil/ATF and heat and take your time. Heat cycle the engine over the next week with the oil first too. Break the nuts loose and then re tighten them one at a time and you wont overstress the other studs. Worst case though if you really don't want to do that, can you try running some kind of pipe cleaner/draino sort of combination through that pipe? Maybe get a feel for what kind of blockage it is and figure out where to go from there. Id be very curious to know what it is and how that happens. You ever drop anything in there by accident? I have a hollow piece of a screwdriver in my heater core but haven't had any issues so far.
 
nordmaschine said:
Newer 700 series and all 900 series have compensator board in temp gauge which makes it move nice and linear, and also pretty-much unrelated to actual temperature
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Ouch.

Is there a way to bypass this ridiculous compensator board in the 700/900s? It can be done for 240s after all.

The Volvo Ghods aren't very keen on showing coolant temps accurately - I mean, like, the S80 V8 doesn't even have a coolant temp gauge at all.
 
bgpzfm142 said:
Ouch.

Is there a way to bypass this ridiculous compensator board in the 700/900s? It can be done for 240s after all.

The Volvo Ghods aren't very keen on showing coolant temps accurately - I mean, like, the S80 V8 doesn't even have a coolant temp gauge at all.
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Would need a schematic of the gauge in the cluster and then figure out the physical location of the area on the board to put in a jumper.
 
Update: I found the blockage!

It appears to be a red cap/plug of some sort. I have no idea how it ended up in the cooling system but here we are. I’m going to free it with compressed air or just replace this hose.
 

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