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Volvo's That Run - Chapter 9 - Speedometer and Tachometer

TestPoint

Active member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Ellijay
Tachometer

My Diesel came with the big clock rather than a tachometer and I just had to have a tach to go with the new V8 engine.

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Volvo tachs came in two flavors; 4cyl and 6 cyl both of which will work with the V8 with calibration and/or modification. Of course, the 4 cylinder versions are much more common and less expensive that the 6 cylinder ones. The 6 cylinder version can be calibrated by an internal adjustment potentiometer to correctly display the 8 cyl signal.

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The 4 cylinder requires the addition of a 750 ohm resistor in the meter movement circuit to get within range of the internal pot. The resistor solution to this issue was the product of ‘Jags That Run’ and is published in their SBC swap manual. The indicator is a press fit on a needle like shaft. Carefully pull it off in order to remove the tach face for access to the circuit board. Just press it back on.

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Replacement is a few screws from the back of the circuit panel. Both the clock and tach plug into the circuit board with 5 connectors, three at the top and two at the bottom, and they may be a little difficult pulling out. Gently pry the clock/tach up, evenly, with a blade screwdriver. The tach plugs into the instrument panel the same way but without the external light connection leads.

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On the tach unit the three connectors at the upper side of the device connect to a small wiring harness that powers the small clock in case you want to add it to the aux instrument area. If you are planning on adding the small clock be sure to get the little harness. The single connector at the bottom of the movement is the PCM tach signal input.

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And here is what the new instrument panel with the tach looks like.

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The clear cover of the panel has a hole for the clock adjustment stem and the cars with tachs have a blank plug to seal that hole. If you are buying a tach rather than installing a V8 in your tach equipped car be sure to get the plug when you are acquiring the tach.

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The parent document to this thread can be found here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
 
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Speedometer

I worried over this little issue far more than it deserved as I just could not get an inspiration on how to connect a Ford speedometer cable to the back of the Volvo meter.

Selecting the cable itself is easy. I found an appropriate Ford 70? length cable at the friendly NAPA dealer; part number 615-1645. It came without a drive gear and without the clip that holds the drive gear. The clip looked an awful lot like an old door or window handle retaining device. Sure enough, while I only needed one I now have a lifetime supply of door handle clips. You will have to clip the clip to get it below the surface of the nylon gear.

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The gear was slightly more difficult as they are only available at you neighbor Ford dealer and the only information they had was what gear went into what vehicle. The parts counter was not busy so my new best friend and I spent probably 45 minutes trying to determine the correct ratio gear. After doing some high level math probably suitable for quantum physics involving tire size and circumference and rear end and overdrive ratios we just came to the conclusion to choose the middle one available . . . a pretty purple one. They are color coded. I figure that if it is off more than I am willing to deal with I will just get a different color. At least I stand a 50% chance of moving in the correct direction and the little nylon gears are not expensive; about $2.50 with tax. With my skill and luck it shouldn?t take more than $20-$30 to get the best one.

Now for the hard part. The Volvo meter has a connection mounting that is a little less than ?? wide and only about ??high. The connection end of the cable has a sleeve that is about ?? wide and an inch plus long.

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The solution I came up with is to use vinyl tubing for the connection. Because the meter mounting is slightly less than ?? I covered it with a single layer of shrink wrap. That made a snug fit. A little over an inch of ?? inside diameter tubing is slipped over and clamped to the back of the meter and extends about 5/8? out past the rear of the mounting piece . A piece of tubing with a ?? inside diameter fits snugly over the cable end sleeve and snugly inside the ?? tubing. Three clamps make a secure connection.

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Surly there is a more professional way to solve this. Any suggestions appreciated.

[edit] A couple weeks after I wrote this as a draft I called Commercial Speedometer of Sacramento and discussed a custom cable based on a referral from a forum member. Nice, knowledgeable guy said that he could build a 70" cable that looked like a Ford on one end and a Volvo 90 degree twist connector on the other for about $70. That includes the nylon gear and retaining clip.

This would be a neat solution if I hadn't already addressed the issue for about $40. Had I to do it over again I would probably gone for the neat results considering the amount of time and thought that went into my solution.

The parent document to this thread can be found here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
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[edit] A couple weeks after I wrote this as a draft I called Commercial Speedometer of Sacramento and discussed a custom cable based on a referral from a forum member. Nice, knowledgeable guy said that he could build a 70" cable that looked like a Ford on one end and a Volvo 90 degree twist connector on the other for about $70. That includes the nylon gear and retaining clip.

That's really not a bad price for a custom made to spec speedo cable IMHO.:nod:
 
Heads up!

It didn't take but a few hundred miles for my perfectly working speedometer to stop. At first I thought it was my R. Goldburg engineered connection from the cable to the back of the speedometer head but no . . . a little more serious than that.

The NAPA Mustang cable was just the perfect length to not even require securing it or so I thought. Unlike cables of my youth the sheath is plastic with a woven wire rather than spiral wire reinforcement. It got too close to the exhaust manifold and simply melted seizing the cable and stripping the transmission gear.

Back to NAPA for a new cable and the Ford store for a purple 21 tooth nylon gear. Obviously, I got a great deal on the first gear at $2.50 since they were now $14 there and the best price around was about $8 shipped.

Anyway, the cable is now secured out of the way of the manifold and perhaps will last a little longer than the first one. Another one of my many mistakes that perhaps you can avoid.



The parent document to this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
 
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Obviously not since I have no idea what that is. I broke the plastic disconnect knob on the back of the speedometer on both cars so they are both now connected with vinyl tubing as above.
 
I don't think I ever considered that. Looking into the cable gear hole it appeared that there was a metal gear driving the fiber/resin replaceable gear.
 
Speedometer

[edit] A couple weeks after I wrote this as a draft I called Commercial Speedometer of Sacramento and discussed a custom cable based on a referral from a forum member. Nice, knowledgeable guy said that he could build a 70" cable that looked like a Ford on one end and a Volvo 90 degree twist connector on the other for about $70. That includes the nylon gear and retaining clip.

This would be a neat solution if I hadn't already addressed the issue for about $40. Had I to do it over again I would probably gone for the neat results considering the amount of time and thought that went into my solution.

Just called this guy, thanks so much for the information. He is great guy that is very willing to build this up and ship it to me. I have been running around for a couple of years now with no cable and I am ready to get it resolved. Will be placing the order soon and I will post with the results when I do.

Peace.
 
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