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What engine mods in what order? a good discussion maybe

thelostartof

unbalanced chemical
300+ Club
Joined
Jun 26, 2002
Location
Apache Junction, AZ
This will ignore suspension mods, those most all might agree should be done first, along with a brake upgrade first.

Trying to get a list together for some future plans, Trying to get a good list that we can maybe (doubt it) agree on for list of bolt on mods one should do on their basic redblock.

Which order works best? Can we talk it out and figure out what is ideal?


1. MBC / Filter
2. Exhaust
3. Chips / ECU
4. Injectors
5. Inter cooler / pipes
6. Camshaft
7. Turbo
8. Exhaust manifold
9. Intake manifold and throttle body.
10. Ported head / larger valves.

So being that we do not have a ton of bolt on parts our paths to upgrade might be a bit different than others, so what list and what order sounds best for our little group?

Say if someone was to do one mod at a time and dyno a car after each mod what order would you like to see things done in to see proper numbers for gains? Sort of a staged list of upgrades, we all know you need to do the basics first like a tune up and fixing all leaks and junk like that.

Of course for those wanting to go MS that list might change a bit but this is for most of the TB'ers out there as with the recent advances in chips stock rev limiter is not a big deal anymore and more and more power is being made with chipped cars so there is a slight argument for the LH 2.4 guys to not rush to go to MS just yet, same can be said about some of the LH 2.2 guys

So I guess I can start it off

1. $15-50 MBC / filter, I am sure we might all agree on this, the cheapest and easy way to get more power out of a red block, throw it on and turn up the boost a bit, quick and easy gain. Along with a MBC now is a good time to upgrade to be it a K&N filter or some kind of larger cone intake and heat shield.

2. $200-500 Exhaust, we all know turbo cars react very well to a opened up and better flowing exhaust, be it 2.5" or 3". Stock is very restrictive; in some cases I have seen turbo cars with 1.75"-2" pipes which can severely hurt flow and power. The biggest recommendation I have here is do it once and do it right.

3. $200-500 Chips / ECU, with the new market of higher rev limiters for the LH 2.4 cars and some better mapped chips there are more than a few gains that can be had with a set of chips. These are a good starting point that will allow your car to see the most from the future set of mods.

4. $50-300 Injectors, some might say you ran out of fuel a step or two ago, most find the stock injectors are good for a good amount of abuse, Since you just upgraded your Chip / ECU now would be an ideal time to add a bit more fuel, this step can be done way at the start or further down. You will find your new ECU has better mapping and setup for these larger injectors. For most 250-300bhp setups you might find 42-55lb injectors are ideal, After that we might recommend something a good bit larger

5. $150-300 Inter cooler / pipes, this should be another point we all agree on, when is the best time to do this upgrade we might not, One could say that with the added boost pressure and air flow from a larger exhaust and a higher rev limiter you want to keep that intake charge as cool as possible, now is also a ideal time to upgrade your intercooler pipes to something solid and larger diameter.

6. $150-400 Camshaft, this is one of those parts that no one is really in full agreement on what kind of what setup is best. There are a few out there that have put down some good numbers and gains but everyone will have a different idea on which brand and grind you want. We will agree on this is an upgrade that is very much needed. While losing a little low end torque over stock, in most cases this will allow you to make good power for the mid range through top end. With a higher rev limiter already in place now you can take advantage of it with a camshaft that will make power all the way to your new redline, be it 6500/6800/7000 rpm.

7. $250-1000 Turbo, now that you are finally cooling down that super heated intake charge from the stock turbo now is a great time to upgrade compressors to something larger. This might require a change in downpipe and intercooler pipes(hot side at least). This can be anywhere from a basic 15g or a nice 60 trim t3, to a bit more of a final turbo of say a Td04HL-19T to a big t3/t4 or a Holset. Changing just the downpipe to match your current exhaust is not a big deal as you can always sell that 3" downpipe to fund your new downpipe or just have a shop hack off one flange and install a new one.

This is where most of you might stop, You might find if you do these first 5 mods correctly 300+bhp should be well within reach along with building a pretty quick street car.

8. $200-1000 Exhaust manifold - This is where you really start getting into spending big money. A better flowing exhaust manifold would be something along the lines of what Kenny sells, or a DIY unit. This can require new intercooler pipes along with downpipe, and oil and water lines depending on the turbo you are using.

9. $300-1000 Intake manifold and throttle body, now we are really talking about flow, as we all know (or well some of us have been trying to beat into your heads) the stock intake manifolds flow like crap, sure they flow, but they are far from ideal. This is something you want to take your time and do right, This is where a huge chunk of gains will be had all across the power band.

10. $200-3000 Ported head / larger valves, Some will argue that bolting a stock intake manifold onto worked head is just a big waste of time and $ as the stock intake really is one of the largest bottlenecks in the system. This port work can be done either in your back yard with a day or so of your time to a big chunk of $ to pay someone to do it right.


Thoughts comments? additions? adjustments? Let us see if we can get a well setup guide on how to make power out of a redblock.

Thanks
 
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Good idea. Having an updated step by step guide would make it easier for people to get started and cut down on redundant postings. In a guide for beginners it's probably important to mention some kind of 'stage 0' or tuneup first. Also noticed you didn't say anything about air intake upgrades, which can be helpful and should probably go with MBC and exhaust as one of the first three things to do. Anything from your basic hi-flow panel to a heatshielded cone. You also didn't mention cams, which might go somewhere around a turbo upgrade. It also might be important to mention at what power/modification levels the stock drivetrain starts to crap out.
 
Thanks, I knew I forgot some stuff, let me think and make some changes

ok updated.

if anything ya'll can add to my comments or just make them make more sense and sound less like a rambling mad man, along with resort my small list or order they should be done with your comments and maybe we can agree.

If my life ever calms down a bit and I finally have some of that spare $ i have been trying so hard to have I do have plans on getting a stock car and doing each mod one at a time with a before and after dyno(and 1/4 mile track) to kind of show the progression in power so that we can get a nice final list of go fast parts
 
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With the affordable pricing of a street performance cam from either IPD or RSI. A cam should fall somewhere between 4 and 6. I put a cam in after I had done exhaust, airbox, a small compressor side upgrade and intercooler. Putting the cam in made it all feel like a combined package of a much better than stock engine that everything worked together well in. This was in the 82 w/B21FT.
 
Injectors and AMM would be worthwhile to add in there right around the ECU upgrade.

Perhaps subnotes to each step on what to expect to fail other than engine-related as you do each mod...i.e. 19T may cause subframe damage kinda thing.

Definitely a good idea, and it should be especially helpful to the constant influx of noobs....
 
good idea to have a updated staged mods list.
before 300 hp, after turbocharger i would add "camshaft".
porting exhaust manifold, that could be added to the list too. somewhere 3-4-5.
also, it would be good to note that running the smaller stock Mitsu's at high boost levels (12?15 psi etc) is not ideal for the engine, especially for longer harder use. Severely cracked exhaust manifold and a lot of heat in the engine can't be good.

When would a better ignition system become beneficial?
How much hp do the stock injectors support (roughly 230 hp afaik)
When do gearboxes break (very depending on operator)
Engine mounts (see above)
 
Good idea. Having an updated step by step guide would make it easier for people to get started and cut down on redundant postings. In a guide for beginners it's probably important to mention some kind of 'stage 0' or tuneup first. Also noticed you didn't say anything about air intake upgrades, which can be helpful and should probably go with MBC and exhaust as one of the first three things to do. Anything from your basic hi-flow panel to a heatshielded cone. You also didn't mention cams, which might go somewhere around a turbo upgrade. It also might be important to mention at what power/modification levels the stock drivetrain starts to crap out.

added the 'filter' and 'camshaft' in there.

Look ok?

Drivetrain wise we might still be on the fence, we can post up some numbers and throw a guesstimate on when you might be there.

For now we should all agree an m46 will die with anywhere from stock 115hp to 300bhp. We have seen them clean off 3rd gear on stock engines along with lightly and highly mod'd engines. Maybe we can have sub sections on if you have an auto do this, and if you have a manual do this?

Aw71 it is hard to say on the killing point. Kenny did put down some 400whp on his, sure when he tore it back apart he said there was no way it was going to hold that power for long, but most of us around the 300whp mark seem to be doing pretty well on pretty much stock AW71's with the basic VB mod and we might also recommend a Kenny valve body or some valve body work.

Next step up driveline wise would be to either a T5/ Getrag or a chevy auto(adapters are getting very cheap)

Rear end wise a G80 diff has shown to hold for 11 second passes with slicks so for now I think most should be good
 
Good feedback guys, thanks, I will see if I can try to find some time to add to it, if ya'll want to rewrite and update/add on to these sections just tell me where to put them and what to put, maybe we can get a good article written by the community and get posts, so no one person can take credit for it all.

In otherwords I have no time, so add more and tell me where to put it, or someone else take over and make it all pimp and make sense. A new Staged list should be in order as times change
 
Good idea
My first post here. I've been a quiet observer for a few months and find it a little overwhelming to sort through this info. I know my first instinct is to go out and buy the biggest turbo I can find and bolt it on but that's not how it works. I would be a good test case for this thread as I'm just working on stage 0 at the moment. I did find a great article on another website. I'm sure some of you may have seen this already. I'll just post the address and you can see for yourself what it covers without me rehashing the whole thing.
I've been a loyal Volvo driver for the last 10 years but just acquired my first turbo. A mint 92 red 945. Every time I look at it I just can't believe how clean it is! It's like new. Really.
I want to do some performance upgrades with it but just not sure what yet.
I now have 3 in the driveway. Mine, an 86 245, my wife's is a 94 960, and mine 92 945t. (this will be my summer car, it's way to sweet to let old man winter have a taste of it)
Just bought some Bilstein HD rear shocks from Grandma sideways as my first upgrade.
Excited about that at least.

Anyway, here's the link

http://www.stonis-world.net/docs/b230tuning.pdf

Thanks already for the hundreds of posts I've already read.

Vernon
 
I have heard here several times that the stock 7XX/940 airbox and filter is good for up to 300HP. Ditto the exhaust although I do not care at all for the stock smaller diameter pipe after my 940T's cat. (I do have one of the over axle pipes I bought from you waiting to go on)

Likewise we have heard that the larger '93- 940 intercooler supports up to 300hp. I have a Gillis boost valve (MBC) hooked up to my 13c hair dryer but the 13c is coming out soon for a ported '90- and ported 15g.
 
1. MBC / Filter
2. Chips / ECU / Injectors 3" AMM
3. Injectors
4. Exhaust
5. Inter cooler / pipes
6. Camshaft
7. Turbo
8. Ported Exhaust Manifold/Turbo Hotside
9. Tubular Exhaust manifold
10. Intake manifold and throttle body.
11. Ported head / larger valves / DOHC head conversion

I think the above would be my sequence of upgrades. I think the 3” AMM is a necessary upgrade either before or at the same time as injectors.. advance your timing a little and make your gas mileage not go down when you upgrade injectors.

Despite the gains on a larger exhaust, I feel that (if you are working on a budget) it should come later in the upgrades when you will really feel the benefits of an opened up exhaust. I would say it’s definitely necessary after a turbo upgrade, but optional between steps 4-7 (progressively more necessary as you go up each step).

With the upgraded turbo and downpipe, I also think it’s timing to consider porting the exhaust manifold and possible hotside on the turbo, especially if you’re running a small mitsu hotside (15g/16t, etc). Not too much work. Maybe this step could go at the same time as the turbo upgrade since it will be all taken apart anyway.

For #11, I figure if you’re cheap and not confident about your porting skills, maybe it is time to start thinking about the DOHC conversion. 500dollar744 wrote a “cheap” DOHC conversion for those who have the balls to run one without valve relief on LH2.4. This also puts you in the zone of producing enough power to break rods and transmissions (assuming your valves and pistons don't collide first), so this is where the serious internal upgrades would need to happen. MS too.
 
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Ok, I have another go:

1. MBC and no conical filter, god damn it!
2. New Intercooler from Fleebay
3. New and better turbo (yes, I know you cant boost it silly yet!)
4. Injectors + EMS (chip, megasquirt or whatever)
5. 3" exhaust, 3" DP
6. New Cam
7. New fuel pump (wallbro intank 255lph?)
8. Wideband Lambda
9. 531 head and a stronger headgasket
10. Half a year in jail, due to speeding
11. New transmission, since you "noobed" it, after spending such a long time in jail.. You forgot the Puny volvo trans couldnt handle as much torque as your grandma used while she was twisting your face and saying "Oh my, what a big boy you have become".
12. New manifoil
13. New intake
14. Fix your driveline

ANyhew: My thought is:
You should buy injectors and EMS that can handle the goal of your project, not a new EMS each 6 months :-)
Eg. if you know you will upgrade, why not go for megasquirt or something?

Also: You shouldnt really boost the crap out of the poor 13c turbo, which means that before buyng injectors, you might as well swap your turbo.
eg. the turbo and the injectors will give up, about hte same time.

The 940 cooler is not either very fond of high pressure, also an all-alu cooler will improve the cooling of the inlet air. (chargetemp?).
SO, I'm kindof doing this backwards in my list here, as I think it will be a cheaper outcome (due to less parts buy/sell/interchange).
The only downside is that then you cant boost a lot from the start (since you dont have chips in the start)
 
1. tuneup
2. exhaust(3in or go home)
3. intercooler(stock piping ok, but ebay ic is a must)
4. mbc/filter
5. chips/ecu/injectors(totally depends on current ems, too many variables)
6. camshaft
7. turbo(unless it's really little, then prolly before cam)
8. Exhaust manifold
9. Intake manifold and throttle body.
10. Ported head / larger valves.

that's my order, i haven't really ever had a turbo car as a dd(or any other way) but i know with mine(which doesn't run atm) i'd rather be safe first, go fast last. if i don't have the $ for minor upgrades, i don't expect to go fast

jason
 
Ok, I have another go:

1. MBC and no conical filter, god damn it!
2. New Intercooler from Fleebay
3. New and better turbo (yes, I know you cant boost it silly yet!)
4. Injectors + EMS (chip, megasquirt or whatever)
5. 3" exhaust, 3" DP
6. New Cam
7. New fuel pump (wallbro intank 255lph?)
8. Wideband Lambda
9. 531 head and a stronger headgasket
10. Half a year in jail, due to speeding
11. New transmission, since you "noobed" it, after spending such a long time in jail.. You forgot the Puny volvo trans couldnt handle as much torque as your grandma used while she was twisting your face and saying "Oh my, what a big boy you have become".
12. New manifoil
13. New intake
14. Fix your driveline

1. tuneup
2. exhaust(3in or go home)
3. intercooler(stock piping ok, but ebay ic is a must)
4. mbc/filter
5. chips/ecu/injectors(totally depends on current ems, too many variables)
6. camshaft
7. turbo(unless it's really little, then prolly before cam)
8. Exhaust manifold
9. Intake manifold and throttle body.
10. Ported head / larger valves.

I think one would also have to take into account what their ultimate goal is. Apologies if this was mentioned. But getting it to stage 0 then planning on what you want out of the engine would be the second step before anything is initially done. That being said I can't really disagree with anyones order of things as they may have differing thoughts on what their ultimate goal is.


My list:

1: Tune up/Stage 0 (assuming the engine is in good overall condition, piston fap not withstanding) Longshot, replacing head gasket "just in case"
2: Intercooler/ducting. NPR, ebay or custom
3: Exhaust, 3". Regardless of power goals. Before or at the same time as turbo.
4: MBC & Filter (modified stock or cone if you float that way)
5: Injectors/FPR & engine management (MS, SDS, etc) with matching pump(s)
6: Bigger/more efficient Turbo
7: Cam
8: Exhaust (modified stock, otherwise re-working of exhaust is needed) and port matching.
9: custom intake, port matching.
10: complete head work, bigger valves, complete flow porting or B234 head with similar work.

Also, one needs to consider (again) the order. No point (IMO) to get a fantastic turbo mounted with a stock exhaust, even if the boost is kept low. My old GT had a custom turo that didn't do squat for me until I installed the 3" t-back. But had I installed the exhaust first, it wouldn't have harmed anything else so even that could be added early as well as the IC and other intake bits. Also, if you're going with something significantly better than stock, 15? 19? wouldn't that just overheat things?


The original "staged" mods were a good benchmark if somewhat dated. If your goal is 250 WHP then you need to start at 1 then get to what ever it is. But if something in step 4 trumps something in step 2, then just go to step 4. (flow chart anyone?)

Just my $.02
 
I did some shuffeling and made some additions:

1. tuneup
2. exhaust(3in or go home)
3. mbc/airbox mod (stock paper filter = OK)
4. chips/ecu/injectors(totally depends on current ems, too many variables)
5. stronger clutch??? anything over 300Nm and your gonna need one fast. + oilcooler if not already fitted
6. intercooler(stock piping ok, late model 940 IC is ok but bigger is better)
7. turbo(unless it's really little, then prolly before cam)(< yes, small turbine is a restriction)
8. Ported head / larger valves.+ MLS headgasket/headstuds+nuts
9. camshaft (+adj. cam pulley, you will only take full advantage of the hotter cam if you have a higher AR hotside and a good flowing head).
10. Exhaust manifold ( < not really needed untill you reach about 300+hp, you can port the OEM manifold to fit the bigger turbo.)
11. Intake manifold and throttle body.
 
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