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S/V/C What to look for when buying a 3.2 P3 car?

HiSPL

Fanking Champion 1993
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Location
College Station, TX
Going to look at a 2008 XC70 tomorrow with the 3.2. Is there anything I need to look for? Red Flags, etc? It will be my first time laying hands on a 3.2 drivetrain. I've been reading a bit though. They seem fairly robust despite all the complexity.

Been reading about the READ unit. Does it make any noises if it's got issues? Any tell-tales?
 
I had an 08 for a short while and other than oil consumption and some electrical issues (the trunk would open itself randomly when parked) it was a solid car, especially in the winter. No coolant temp gauge stunk though.
 
The read failure is rare.

Things that are more likely

Aux belt, tensioner and idler - we change them at 150K Km even though interval is 196K km. The bearing on the tensioner seems to fail early. This is the only major item on these things that I'd consider maintentance (since it has a timing chain that never goes bad)

Look on the firewally behind the aux belt for a streak from the water pump.

On 08 look for leaking power steering pump and lines.

Listen for wheel bearings but P3 bearings are pretty solid. When at highway speed, decelerate and listen for a whine- some (mainly the later ones) the pinion in the diff fails and whines, the diff is rebuildable through land rover and some after market shops for not much money. (If it is AWD)

The trailing arm bushings, also known as the "stay arm bushings" separate. These are essentially the front trailing arm bushings.

Check rear suspension for broken rear springs (check the front as well, but the rear is much more common to break).

When turning the steering wheel side to side slowly (go end to end) you want to listen for a boing sound - upper bearings binding (this is more of a later P3 thing rather than the earlier).

Make sure the transmission shifts smoothly and what you'd consider properly.

If AWD, check for a leak between the bevel gear and the transmission. Make sure the AWD works- if there is a warning for the AWD, it is an electrical failure- likely pump on that car. If AWD doesn't work and there is no warning, it is a sleeve (I have only ever seen maybe 1 P3 connecting sleeve fail, and 99% of the cars here are AWD and it gets used heavily).

Off the top of my head, those are the more obscure common things that are specific to this Volvo. Obviously you'd still check out ball joints, tie rods, overall condition of the car, cleanliness etc.

Inside the car, make sure the blower motor is quiet.

Sound strange, but when you're on the road test, press your right leg against the waterfall as hard as you can and see if the radio cuts out. This was a really old bulletin that I only encountered once, but has always stuck with me.

12V sockets make sure they work- an updated socket was available to prevent popping the fuse.

Send me the VIN tomorrow and I'll try to run it for you and tell you if it has had oil consumption work done (this was more of a later thing, but america did have a different engine code than we got for the NA engines which were worse, but most of those cars had the rings replaced).

Useless info- one of the highest, if not the highest mileage car I regularily see at work is an 08 XC70 3.2. It was in a few weeks ago with just a hair under 700K Km. Other high mileage cars I can think of is an 850 with 600K MILES (not original engine), and a red 07 V70R 6 speed that had 550K Km (Had the engine replaced at 475)
 
The read failure is rare.

Things that are more likely

<snip>

Useless info- one of the highest, if not the highest mileage car I regularily see at work is an 08 XC70 3.2. It was in a few weeks ago with just a hair under 700K Km. Other high mileage cars I can think of is an 850 with 600K MILES (not original engine), and a red 07 V70R 6 speed that had 550K Km (Had the engine replaced at 475)



Dude. Fantastic info! Thanks!

Will PM you with the VIN shortly...
 
I think the 3.2 engine is one of Volvo's best. Just use good quality oil and change at 5000 miles. My 08 V70 (FWD) is coming up on 300,000 miles and is running strong. But if the blower motor is noisy, it's an expensive fix.
 
Full time Volvo Mechanic/shop owner here. As you can guess, we service and repair a bizillion Volvos with the SI6.

They're fairly straightforward and simple to work on. P3s are fairly robust cars. Suspension stuff can be a little more difficult than the P2s but its nothing to really worry about as it all seems to hold up pretty well.

As far as drivetrain goes I can run down some of the common things I typically deal with:

PCV system: It's all integrated into a breather box on top of the engine. They all go bad at some point. Very easy to change in about 5 minutes.

AC compressor: These are another part that you'll be replacing. They get "lazy" as they get old and will eventually take a while to cool down. It's the solenoid in the compressor that is the issue. We just replace the entire unit now due to them being very easy to replace (about a 15 min job not including evacuating and recharging) and compressors aren't that expensive ($380ish for a OES Valeo unit).

Blower motor: I do a handful of them a year. If it's not working, I always try the resistor first. It's a bit of a bugger to get to but it's separate of the fan assembly so I always start with it first. If you wind up having to do the motor assembly you'll need the special tool. I've got it down to a solid hour or so to replace. It's a solid hour of frustration to some extent but not the end of the world.

Aux belt drive: Volvo says to replace them at 10 years or 150k miles. I like to do it a little sooner. That consists of replacing the belt, idler, and tensioner assembly. Almost always the failure is the pulley on the tensioner. It'll lock up and smoke the belt. OES components are fine, as every aftermarket box I've used has had an OES Litens branded tensioner assembly inside. I think they're the only ones that make the assembly.

RH pillow engine mount and upper torque rod: It's under the coolant tank, these are almost always bad if it's not been replaced already. Once again, cheap and easy. OES will be Corteco. All of the other engine mounts seldom, if ever fail.

Cooling fan: Notorious for the cooling fan module to fail rendering the fan staying on after the car is shut off or no operation of the cooling fan at all. One phillips screw and two 3 connectors and its out. It's located on the fan assembly.

Brake Vacuum pump: Located on the drivers side of the intake cam. These all eventually weep oil. All is you need is a rebuild kit which consists of a couple of O rings and new nipple. You're local dealer will have PLENTY of them in stock lol. It's a very easy 15 minute job.

Alternator Coupler: See this issue all the time. The drive gear on the READ side of the unit that drives the alternator becomes loose with age and slips, rendering the alternator not turning. Most shops that don't know any better just assume the alternator is bad. If you run into this issue, just take a peek down under the intake and see if the coupler is spinning. If not, pull the intake and alternator and remove the bolt holding the coupler to the drive unit and slather some loctite on it and ugga dugga it tight. I don't know why Volvo didn't key this pulley:-P

Transmission: The Tf80s at this year point is pretty much got all of the shortcomings worked out. It's still imperative that you have the change to drive it from a cold start and take a good 30-45 minute test drive. If they have torque converter lockup shudder or flaring, it typically won't show up until a long test drive. A little bit of TQ lockup shudder is nothing to really worry about but it's something worth checking.

They can be a little thirsty on oil, some worse than others. I fill up to 8.5 quarts on them. That typically gets them to the next service interval without triggering the low oil level message.

As far as the READ unit, don't worry about it. In the past decade of working on these things full time, I've never seen one bad.

That's pretty much the lowdown. Everything else is pretty much typical used car things. I will say if you plan on keeping it, look into getting VIDA and DICE unit. It's pretty much a must for any Volvo 1999+ for diagnosis.

If you wind up getting it and have questions, feel free to ask!
 
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Alternator Coupler: See this issue all the time. The drive gear on the READ side of the unit that drives the alternator becomes loose with age and slips, rendering the alternator not turning. Most shops that don't know any better just assume the alternator is bad. If you run into this issue, just take a peek down under the intake and see if the coupler is spinning. If not, pull the intake and alternator and remove the bolt holding the coupler to the drive unit and slather some loctite on it and ugga dugga it tight. I don't know why Volvo didn't key this pulley:-P


Often times when this comes loose, it is because a 1 way clutch has seized- either the one on the alternator, or the one below the AC compressor. We have been checking them all out when doing AUX belts, or if the bolt comes loose. Just something to check out when you've got a loose bolt on that drive.

Jordan
 
I have mixed feelings about the 3.2 in our 2011 XC90. It's thirsty but also gutless. The oil consumption problem is real.

We replaced the serpentine belt, pulley, and tensioner around 130,000 miles. I'd consider that normal wear and tear.

On the flip side, it's a basic motor that keeps on trucking.
 
Well he sold it out from under me. I was pissed.

I went to buy it on Thursday and he never showed. I was standing there next to the car for like an hour while he said he was coming. I had to eventually go to work. I made a plan to come see it the next day and he sold it the next morning for more than the price he had listed?!? IDK. The car looked fantastic but the seller seemed super sketchy. Part of the reason I was asking so many questions and doing my homework on it.

He had it posted for 4500 and then dropped it to 2000. That's when I started talking to him. Then he sells it for 2500 (so he tells me) to a "Down on his luck Veteran". IDK if he was trying to squeeze more money out of me or what. But F that guy. I was there with money in my hand. IF it started and drove good I was going to buy it.
 
So I missed out on the above car, but as luck would have it we bought another 2008 XC70 two nights ago. From a Jaguar dealer of all places. I had passed over this car a few times because it had spent some time in New Jersey and that scared me a little. I should have gone to look at it sooner though. It's really clean and it turns out that only about 10k miles were spent in Jersey.


It's that nice sparkly brown color. 147k miles. Dealer service records since new. The Jag dealer dropped the price 2 grand which is why went and looked at it finally. The headliner is falling and right now in Texas there are no upholsterers that can do the job within like a 3 month window, so the dealer cut the price to get rid if it. We paid 7400 out the door. More than I wanted, but that's life right now I guess.

On the good side, the car runs and drives excellently. No strange noises out of the belt system. AC works well too. On the bad side it came wearing brand new snow tires. Those will be gone in a couple months I guess and I'll have to buy some tires which sucks. The guy trading it in put his snow tires on it for a better looking trade. Former owner seems to have bounced between Houston and New York a fair bit. There were some service records from NYC, but it's been registered in Texas since it had about 15k miles on it.


It's got a couple of small dents. The headliner and other parts of the interior are coming loose due to heat. The seats are in great shape though. All in All it seems like a good car.
 
So now I've got a couple of questions.

Can I modify or otherwise disable the front parking sensors? They trigger on damn near everything. Just driving down the road they'll trigger on the slightest little rise or hump. Speed bumps drive them crazy.

The rear sensors seem to work great and my daughter likes the back up sensors, but the front ones are driving us nuts.



Also, this car had really badly aimed headlights so the first thing I did was try to get them pointed back towards the road. Both were pointed far left and down. As I was repositioning them they ran out of adjustment, although they are more or less pointed the right way now. Is there something weird about the headlight adjusters? I don't think it's been "wrecked" in the front, but there's evidence that someone had the front end apart. Especially the drivers side. I plan on stripping the splash sheilds and maybe bumper skin off of it to see what's up some weekend when she comes home. Right now, the drivers side fog light is not plugged into it's housing and I snaked my arm up in there to do it. The wires are caught on something or not routed correctly because there's not enough length to let it plug in properly. AND all the washer hoses are disconnected and plugged with a screw. Somebody took this corner apart and didn't put it back together properly. I want to know why.
 
Probably suffered an accident of some sort.

New parking sensors is the only answer afaik. Buy OEM replacements for those.

Does it have active bending headlights?
 
Probably suffered an accident of some sort.

New parking sensors is the only answer afaik. Buy OEM replacements for those.

Does it have active bending headlights?
No, it's pretty basic. Regular halogen headlights and fogs. Also base stereo and other stuff. Only real options are the parking sensors and the heated seats. Those all might be standard fow all I know, but that's all it has.
 
So for the headlight aim. I often find that the bulbs themselves are not in the housing correctly. They are cocked off to one side. This prevents you from adjusting correctly. So I'd open them and confirm they are seated properly.

For the park sensors, they absolutely shouldn't be going off that often. Check the front for rock damage, dents etc. When they go off, you should try to see if it consistently one or two. Then look closely at them. Look for any bubbling on them. They should be very smooth. If not it could have corrosion under the coating that is causing the false activations.

It sounds like you should pull the bumper cover off. I'd inspect the harness. I'd follow it very closely and look for any exposed wires. Any pinches. I'd really look closely since it sounds like there was a poor repair done to the front of the car. Where the harness of the bumper plugs into the body harness, make sure there is no corrosion. These sometimes get corroded and can cause issues. Typically you'd get a "park assist service required" warning though.

Jordan
 
When we had a similar experience with our XC90 rear sensors going off for no reason but there was nothing in message center iirc.

There was bubbling and corrosion on some of the sensors. The ones I pulled out were marked FoMoCo. The new ones I bought were marked Volvo. Maybe it doesn't matter but it made me feel better. Lol
 
I did notice some light tan spots on one of the sensors. I tried to pick it off with my finger nail and it didn’t come off. I thought it was mud at first. Might be paint or something.
 
Bumping this thread because I have two of these cars (both 2010's) on my radar this week, both sub-$2k cars for various reasons. Does anyone know off-hand if you can jump the resistor to test fan functionality? I imagine there has to be voltage in/voltage out direct to the fan.
 
Bumping this thread because I have two of these cars (both 2010's) on my radar this week, both sub-$2k cars for various reasons. Does anyone know off-hand if you can jump the resistor to test fan functionality? I imagine there has to be voltage in/voltage out direct to the fan.
You would want to jumper the relay not a resistor. A resistor would be used to give you the different fan speeds or to limit total current so something doesn't overheat. I don't know how to jumper the fan relay on a P3 car but someone like GTjordan can help you.
 
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