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Whatever_Racecar Endurance 745T

I did buttonwillow by myself....dont recommend it unless your are in a good state of mind and motivated to do so along with your health status. Takes a lot out of you. I did take a lunch break in middle of day and when I think i needed one though. Think I lost like
8-9lbs that weekend just in water weight. Was fun and dont know how I did it but I wont do that again probably, lol.

That is crazy, especially at Buttonwillow with the heat. Glad you lived.
 
As of now we have all seats filled but if something changes I will let you know. Would be fun to get a bunch of west coast Volvo's to a Lemons of LD race.
 
At Sonoma I had the last stint of the race. I could tell boost was down, it felt like the wastegate actuator was disconnected. Well it turns out I was right. I have not had this failure before.

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Wastegate actuator rod is missing too. What is the part that failed called? I assume I can find one on ebay, preferable that takes a pin, not a clip.
 
I have the same ATP gate here. The pin is pressed into the arm, and it might be peened over. The older gates were welded if I'm not mistaken.

The pin itself is:
5.90mm dia with the groove, then there is a shoulder that is 10mm dia shoulder that is s2mm tall. This shoulder is what bottoms out against the flapper arm.

edit:
I'd call up ATP and see if they will warranty that. Seems like a simple weld on the pin would work.

The older actuators used a 1/4" pin, and McMaster has a good selection of 1/4" Clevis pins: https://www.mcmaster.com/pins/pin-type~clevis/diameter~1-4/
It looks like the 6mm pins are more common with clips, but you could always drill a hole for a pin: https://www.mcmaster.com/92735A134/
Misumi has 6mm clevis pins, but the shortest under head length I can find is 15mm: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/deta...2575":"mig00000001499316"}&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0
 
Last edited:
I have the same ATP gate here. The pin is pressed into the arm, and it might be peened over. The older gates were welded if I'm not mistaken.

The pin itself is:
5.90mm dia with the groove, then there is a shoulder that is 10mm dia shoulder that is s2mm tall. This shoulder is what bottoms out against the flapper arm.

I do have a spare ATP gate and my old gate. Maybe I will grind the broken piece off my old T3 gate and weld to ATP gate. It has a hole instead of a c-clip groove. I have had the c-clip disappear on track and they are impossible to find if you drop them.
 
I do have a spare ATP gate and my old gate. Maybe I will grind the broken piece off my old T3 gate and weld to ATP gate. It has a hole instead of a c-clip groove. I have had the c-clip disappear on track and they are impossible to find if you drop them.

I hate the c-clips so much. Check my edits above for some clevis pin links. Hopefully that inspires you.

I think switching out to a the older style with the pin is the way to go!
 
edit:
I'd call up ATP and see if they will warranty that. Seems like a simple weld on the pin would work.

I think that one is a warranty. The wastegate flapper seized on one. I also warrantied a hot side.

I really don't want to disassemble it. I am scared I will bust a stud on the hot side.

Thanks for the links.
 
Just adding something that may be of use, I had one of the ATP clips finally fall off. I'm giving these a try, I'll report back over the weekend about how well it worked:
 
Just adding something that may be of use, I had one of the ATP clips finally fall off. I'm giving these a try, I'll report back over the weekend about how well it worked:
That looks like a better design and easier to find when it flings off when working on it in the paddock. I haven't taken my car out of the trailer since the beginning of December.
 
It's the same style of clip that's used on a 240 hood hinge. Once installed they are basically locked onto the pins until you pry them tab over, unlike the e-clips which can be pressed or spun off.
 
I never really put my engine build in here. The car came with an unknown engine, no idea how many miles were on it, or what was inside it. In September 2020 we participated in the 24 Hours of Lemons High Plains Drifter race in Colorado. It was a true 24 hour, starting at noon Saturday through noon Sunday. During this race we went through at least 5 gallons of oil, mostly leaking and some burning. We would race until the oil light started blinking in corners then come in and add a gallon. We even drained the intercooler in the middle of the night. We had gotten 9 races and about 7300 races miles out of an unknown engine.

Meanwhile I had traded for a 92+ B230FT of unknown heritage. Original plan was to drop it in and send it, but I was worried about the blowby and pushing out the seals again. So I tossed it in the car and took it down to Josh’s shop when he was still in CA.

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Upon measuring the bores, cylinders 1 and 4 were worn out too far for a rebore. The decision was made to resleeve those bores and bore 2 and 3. We then sourced some +1 Mahle pistons.
Found some H-Rods locally in the meantime.
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Got the block back.
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Put the squirters back in.
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New pistons and standard bearings.
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Crank had gotten some rust on it, so took it for polishing.
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Pistons in
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Plastigauge looked good enough
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Bottom end all back together. New, water pump, oil pump and seals. Left block ugly because I didn’t want to draw the attention of the Lemons judges.
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I used the old head because it had been rebuilt a couple races before, but I did remove the VX cam and put an IPD turbo cam in.

Since then we have put 7 races and about 4500 miles on the new engine. It has been solid. We did replace the cam seal as it was leaking.

Later I looked inside the old engine. So that’s where the oil drain seal went.

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Some kind of fancy rods in the old engine
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The worst bearing
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Ugly
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Long fricken day of wrenching under the car yesterday. Team mate can down to help me swap the 16 gallon tank for a 94 20 gallon tank as well as swap the open diff 3.54 axle for a G80 3.73. I am sure for most of you guys it wouldn't have taken long, but we were at it for about 10 hours, mostly trying to get the gas tank to fit. So nasty under this car from all the oil soaked dirty 'undercoating'.

We upgraded the in tank pump to a Walbro 255. We also updated the wiring. Pretty easy to solder new 14 gauge underneath, but the top had the connector filled. A pick and a heat gun got rid of the filling and I was able to solder on some 14 gauge wiring on top too.

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Filled it in afterwards.

Old tank and new tank side by side:
1695051337472.jpeg

Thanks for the tank 2manyturbos.

Anyways we are racing at Buttonwillow Sept 29-Oct 1. Maybe we will see you there.
 
If you paint your freshly rebuilt block, it will die a quick death, anyway. It’s the way with Redblocks.
 
how far into the wiring did you have to go to get the pump wired? like did you have to extend the wiring on the chassis side? or just to the connector that plugs into the chassis harness. That tank was a really good modification, it's something I did on my 90 regina 740 wagon a few years ago.
 
how far into the wiring did you have to go to get the pump wired? like did you have to extend the wiring on the chassis side? or just to the connector that plugs into the chassis harness. That tank was a really good modification, it's something I did on my 90 regina 740 wagon a few years ago.

Since it is a dedicated racecar, pretty much all the wiring in the car has been replaced. There is a generic fuse block on the firewall, a dedicated fuse and relay, a 12 or 10 gauge wire that runs along the inside drivers side to the trunk and a deutsch connector to a 14 gauge wire to the top of the fuel pump sender.
 
I forgot to add, the 940 donor sedan for the axle had a sway bar, going to give that a try. We have always run without one since we got the car.
 
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