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240 Wheel stud replacement on the rear?

No. Remove wheel, move caliper aside, remove rotor and ebrake shoes. I think I had to remove the backing plate too (can't remember). Drive old ones out, suck new ones in, replace rest of stuff. Fairly easy.
 
You will have to spin axle to find the sweet spot. It is a tight fit, but it will come out/go in w/o removing the axle or backing plate.
 
The 1 & 1/16" / 27mm big nut that holds the steering wheel on makes a good tool to pull the studs back in with an upside down lug nut to draw it in.
Be sure to check the lug nuts after driving a very short distance, and again to be sure your wheel are actually secured to the vehicle.
 
There is a Volvo tool for doing it in situe, basically it's a very heavy duty G clamp. Might be worth seeing if someone has one locally.
 
on a similar topic... is there a hardened steel or something better for stud/nut replacement. I seem to strip out at least one stud far per axle far to often. Looking through the previous owners comprehensive receipts folder the garages they went to also ended up replacing stripped studs all the time, about one per axle every few visits. I've been using the IPD stuff but curious if there is something hardened? and where to buy
- I'm pretty fussy about clean threads and yes I use a bit of lube when tightening/removing so its not me. I might be guilty of occasionally overtightening though.
Thanks
 
on a similar topic... is there a hardened steel or something better for stud/nut replacement. I seem to strip out at least one stud far per axle far to often. Looking through the previous owners comprehensive receipts folder the garages they went to also ended up replacing stripped studs all the time, about one per axle every few visits. I've been using the IPD stuff but curious if there is something hardened? and where to buy
Thanks

Sounds like operator error.
Are you using an impact to mount your wheels or allowing the tire monkeys to touch your car?
 
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