Yes! Congrats. I thought of this build the other day and wondered if you had gone ahead with it. Looking forward to seeing all the details
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White 940 2.5TDI wagon
- Thread starter petiww
- Start date
Yes! Congrats. I thought of this build the other day and wondered if you had gone ahead with it. Looking forward to seeing all the details
Yes! Congrats. I thought of this build the other day and wondered if you had gone ahead with it. Looking forward to seeing all the details
Hah, thanks! Its definitely a good thing that it came together well, and if i can tease you even more, it does around 6,5L/100km (36 us mpg) fuel consumption on longer trips, with a pretty heavy foot. These days I'm daily driving it, and its solidly around 7,5L/100km (31 mpg), on 20+20km.
Okay, part one, this will be just maintenance, as it had to show up for inspection back in '21 november. Let the pictures talk:
Bad sway endlink bolt and sleeve...
20210914_224406 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Of course i had to cut one coil upfront, but i did not like how the spring seated itself:
20211116_233232 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211116_235237 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
New bushings where necessary, new bumpstops with new dust shields on the shocks:
20211118_001720 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211118_001754 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Rear section needed some more attention, as the brakes were also not so great. When we went on a trip with David the last year, the handbrake actually got kinda stuck...
This is what i found:
20211115_191956 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20210914_225049 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Rotors were rusty and had shoulders so it got some shiny coated Ate discs. This is how i left it:
20211115_224101 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211118_001654 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211116_181002 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Cleaned all the surfaces, new shoes, pads, rotors, parking brake mount and cable... And the little white cable guides were flipped to provide a new healthy surface.
The handbrake became really great, on a slightly wet asphalt it can lock up the tires. Its still not as powerful as the dual cable system on the 240s... Those can lock up my rear tires fairly easy even on dry asphalt.
Oh and the speedo sensor was rewired as the wiring was gone.
One coil minus gave this look, just a tiny rake, which really grown on me, as well as the 940 frontend:
20211117_235240 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Bad sway endlink bolt and sleeve...
20210914_224406 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrOf course i had to cut one coil upfront, but i did not like how the spring seated itself:
20211116_233232 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211116_235237 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrNew bushings where necessary, new bumpstops with new dust shields on the shocks:
20211118_001720 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211118_001754 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrRear section needed some more attention, as the brakes were also not so great. When we went on a trip with David the last year, the handbrake actually got kinda stuck...
This is what i found:
20211115_191956 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20210914_225049 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrRotors were rusty and had shoulders so it got some shiny coated Ate discs. This is how i left it:
20211115_224101 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211118_001654 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211116_181002 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrCleaned all the surfaces, new shoes, pads, rotors, parking brake mount and cable... And the little white cable guides were flipped to provide a new healthy surface.
The handbrake became really great, on a slightly wet asphalt it can lock up the tires. Its still not as powerful as the dual cable system on the 240s... Those can lock up my rear tires fairly easy even on dry asphalt.
Oh and the speedo sensor was rewired as the wiring was gone.
One coil minus gave this look, just a tiny rake, which really grown on me, as well as the 940 frontend:
20211117_235240 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
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Part two, still maintenance:
Taillights were gross, so i sourced some better ones, refurbrished, polished and installed them:
20211126_215623 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
The right one is an used unit and the reverse lens fell out. I took the opportunity and repainted the surface and glued the lens back, sealed the black dividers too.
20211126_203452 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211126_210023 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Had to do something with the broken tailgate wiring, as i temporarily just fixed the central locking, but had no plate lights or rear wiper, nor heated windshield...
20211126_153450 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211127_210036 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211128_163504 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This turned out to be 3 afternoons of work. Car was missing this little wiring guide/hinge, so the wiring was all messed up. Ended up flipping the stock bandaged cable, so its healthy and intact where the wiring needs to be flexible near the tailgate hinge. This all greeted me with this look:
20211128_192830 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Of course it would be too nice if it was good on first try. I had some problems when pressing the brake pedal. The brake lights drew a lot of juice, and they werent really bright at all...
After some time and investigation, it turned out that i flipped two wires, and besides trying to light up two 21W bulbs, it tried to light up my wiper motors coil, as the third brake lamp wire got connected to the motor...
It was a real easy fix once i realised what i messed up.
Airbagged steering wheel had multiple degrees of freedom, and it annoyed me so much that I swapped in a good 740 one, along with the horn contact unit:
20211118_001355 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Shift knob was wiggling around, so i went on and installed a new shift knob, cleaned all the grime, rewired the OD switch:
20211118_001440 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Also it got a passenger side, almost matching colour seat for the drivers seat. The car actually became really pleasant and relaxing to drive. It passed inspections easily too!
Taillights were gross, so i sourced some better ones, refurbrished, polished and installed them:
20211126_215623 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThe right one is an used unit and the reverse lens fell out. I took the opportunity and repainted the surface and glued the lens back, sealed the black dividers too.
20211126_203452 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211126_210023 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrHad to do something with the broken tailgate wiring, as i temporarily just fixed the central locking, but had no plate lights or rear wiper, nor heated windshield...
20211126_153450 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211127_210036 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20211128_163504 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThis turned out to be 3 afternoons of work. Car was missing this little wiring guide/hinge, so the wiring was all messed up. Ended up flipping the stock bandaged cable, so its healthy and intact where the wiring needs to be flexible near the tailgate hinge. This all greeted me with this look:
20211128_192830 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrOf course it would be too nice if it was good on first try. I had some problems when pressing the brake pedal. The brake lights drew a lot of juice, and they werent really bright at all...
After some time and investigation, it turned out that i flipped two wires, and besides trying to light up two 21W bulbs, it tried to light up my wiper motors coil, as the third brake lamp wire got connected to the motor...
It was a real easy fix once i realised what i messed up.
Airbagged steering wheel had multiple degrees of freedom, and it annoyed me so much that I swapped in a good 740 one, along with the horn contact unit:
20211118_001355 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrShift knob was wiggling around, so i went on and installed a new shift knob, cleaned all the grime, rewired the OD switch:
20211118_001440 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrAlso it got a passenger side, almost matching colour seat for the drivers seat. The car actually became really pleasant and relaxing to drive. It passed inspections easily too!
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I used the car a few times during the winter, but I was mainly avoiding salted roads and snow, I just used the little Corsa instead.
Got a broken and cracked waterfall grille which was already painted black in the middle, and with a few correctly placed zipties, it was already on the car. Damn this really helped me start loving this frontend!
20220325_162452 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Sourced a Jurbodiesel badge too, for some 80s revolutionary feeling.
20220327_191923 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Then in the spring, after a slight change in my personal life i got back my motivation to finish the TDI swap. Also, the welder at my job who welded my oil pan died in February, I thought it would be an honor for him if I didn't let his work go to waste.
So the project was back on the track, started to source some TDI bits. First package was from an S60, aux console, ps pump, ac comp, alternator, DMF with clutch, 140hp injectors... I still had the 115hp AAT engine, but i decided to convert the electric fuel pump to mechanical. And for that, i thought if i spend so much money on it, I'd like to set it at the higher factory power.
Fully rebuilt the alternator, because it was fully covered in oily soot and wired the tach signal W out:
20220412_175231 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220412_202151 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Got back the converted fuel pump without the huge cable and spool holder. As this is the piece that connects the pump to the block, and is different between the TDI and the D24 engines, i needed to weld the two together and make it not so visible:
D24:
20220404_212324 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Converted D24 on the TDI pump:
20220413_205447 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220413_205438 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
New spool axle:
20220414_115239 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220414_181043 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
And the almost finished product:
20220413_230032 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
I also needed to install a little spool stop, as the ball end on the throttle lever is not adjustable... No pic of that sorry.
My plan was to completely prepare the engine for installation in the garage so that I could use the car until then. Went for some curvy road fun to Pezinsk? Baba with 12david34:
20220415_180656 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220415_184032 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Poor D24TIC and 25TDS, but they tolerated the abuse
Got a broken and cracked waterfall grille which was already painted black in the middle, and with a few correctly placed zipties, it was already on the car. Damn this really helped me start loving this frontend!
20220325_162452 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrSourced a Jurbodiesel badge too, for some 80s revolutionary feeling.
20220327_191923 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen in the spring, after a slight change in my personal life i got back my motivation to finish the TDI swap. Also, the welder at my job who welded my oil pan died in February, I thought it would be an honor for him if I didn't let his work go to waste.
So the project was back on the track, started to source some TDI bits. First package was from an S60, aux console, ps pump, ac comp, alternator, DMF with clutch, 140hp injectors... I still had the 115hp AAT engine, but i decided to convert the electric fuel pump to mechanical. And for that, i thought if i spend so much money on it, I'd like to set it at the higher factory power.
Fully rebuilt the alternator, because it was fully covered in oily soot and wired the tach signal W out:
20220412_175231 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220412_202151 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrGot back the converted fuel pump without the huge cable and spool holder. As this is the piece that connects the pump to the block, and is different between the TDI and the D24 engines, i needed to weld the two together and make it not so visible:
D24:
20220404_212324 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrConverted D24 on the TDI pump:
20220413_205447 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220413_205438 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrNew spool axle:
20220414_115239 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220414_181043 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrAnd the almost finished product:
20220413_230032 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrI also needed to install a little spool stop, as the ball end on the throttle lever is not adjustable... No pic of that sorry.
My plan was to completely prepare the engine for installation in the garage so that I could use the car until then. Went for some curvy road fun to Pezinsk? Baba with 12david34:
20220415_180656 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220415_184032 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrPoor D24TIC and 25TDS, but they tolerated the abuse
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Then the fun began.
Dumb me wanted to keep the working M46 in place. The DMF needed a clutch setup that would accept the M46 input shaft. As far as i know 240mm M45-6-7 splined discs do not exist. I sent a M56 PP and disc to a clutch rebuilder company (along with a M46 disc centre), to somehow massage them together. Well, they bored out the M56 splines, and pressed in the machined M46, then welded the ends together.
While this procedure sounds fine in theory, it turned out to be a mess after welding, due to warpage. The damned disc had a pretty solid lateral runout when turned on an input shaft...
20220420_105604 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220420_093014 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
I tried brute force at home. It did not work so at my workplace we machined a chuck to grip on the disc at the bore. With using the longitudinal hand wheel, I finely pressed on the disc at various places to remove any lateral runout. This seemed to work well, but once again i was disappointed that it again had solid lateral runout on an input shaft...
Funky warpage, I'm not surprised when it makes the car shudder during clutch engagement.
To correct this I just sourced a diesel M90 on the last weekend, so it can get an untouched clutch setup.
Some engine mount fab photos:
20220420_230324 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_182852 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_194853 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_230946 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220621_202211 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Kinda similar conception as the right side, made from 5x50 flat bars, its easy to bend then weld and grind them flat. I really did not put too much thought into this, just went with the flow.
The idea to connect the third eye under the aux consoles lower bolt is not the nicest, but it does the job just fine. And what is great? That it works both with the early and the later aux console, as their thickness at that section is the same!
The swap quickly got way closer to implementation than in the previous years. Then a few wild problems appeared:
20220430_170602 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_170608 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_171549 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_173552 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Realised that the Audi TDI engine just dont want to work with the Volvo valve cover. It does not have the casting protrusions for the sealing surfaces, near the injectors.
Also, this particular engine somehow greeted me with a not so nice camshaft wear at the vacuum pump, plus discoloration at the other valve cams.
The previously modded intake manifold turned out to be a mistake aswell, it is interfering with the timing cover (the EGR inlet is flipped too).
To correct these, i bit the bullet and bought a non running, 500tkm half-apart engine from a V70:
20220514_201520 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Flipped another intake manifold, but now only the inlet, and also modified the previous to be completely EGRless:
20220523_204933 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Dumb me wanted to keep the working M46 in place. The DMF needed a clutch setup that would accept the M46 input shaft. As far as i know 240mm M45-6-7 splined discs do not exist. I sent a M56 PP and disc to a clutch rebuilder company (along with a M46 disc centre), to somehow massage them together. Well, they bored out the M56 splines, and pressed in the machined M46, then welded the ends together.
While this procedure sounds fine in theory, it turned out to be a mess after welding, due to warpage. The damned disc had a pretty solid lateral runout when turned on an input shaft...
20220420_105604 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220420_093014 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrI tried brute force at home. It did not work so at my workplace we machined a chuck to grip on the disc at the bore. With using the longitudinal hand wheel, I finely pressed on the disc at various places to remove any lateral runout. This seemed to work well, but once again i was disappointed that it again had solid lateral runout on an input shaft...
Funky warpage, I'm not surprised when it makes the car shudder during clutch engagement.
To correct this I just sourced a diesel M90 on the last weekend, so it can get an untouched clutch setup.
Some engine mount fab photos:
20220420_230324 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220421_182852 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220421_194853 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220421_230946 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220621_202211 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrKinda similar conception as the right side, made from 5x50 flat bars, its easy to bend then weld and grind them flat. I really did not put too much thought into this, just went with the flow.
The idea to connect the third eye under the aux consoles lower bolt is not the nicest, but it does the job just fine. And what is great? That it works both with the early and the later aux console, as their thickness at that section is the same!
The swap quickly got way closer to implementation than in the previous years. Then a few wild problems appeared:
20220430_170602 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220430_170608 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220430_171549 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220430_173552 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrRealised that the Audi TDI engine just dont want to work with the Volvo valve cover. It does not have the casting protrusions for the sealing surfaces, near the injectors.
Also, this particular engine somehow greeted me with a not so nice camshaft wear at the vacuum pump, plus discoloration at the other valve cams.
The previously modded intake manifold turned out to be a mistake aswell, it is interfering with the timing cover (the EGR inlet is flipped too).
To correct these, i bit the bullet and bought a non running, 500tkm half-apart engine from a V70:
20220514_201520 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrFlipped another intake manifold, but now only the inlet, and also modified the previous to be completely EGRless:
20220523_204933 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
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20220515_163202 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrI do like when the car is loaded (with a D5252T), sits about perfect.
So I quickly dug myself into this one. This second engine was already partially disassembled and as the garage is dusty, i wanted to close all openings as quick as i could.
I started with installing the rebuilt injectors, this needed careful cleaning of the injector sealing surfaces and the bores. Of course with the engine on the stand, turned upside down.
Checked and cleaned all the glowplugs and their seats and installed them too. Not that they are needed badly on the TDI engines... I still havent connected anything to them.
20220520_000423 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220520_030005 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen went to the other side, after some careful cleaning I installed the flipped intake manifold:
20220524_204707 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrInstalled the Audi exhaust manifold along with its K14 turbo and drain tube. Took my time and fabricated the EGR connecting flex pipe too, to look original. I think its from the D5252T engine as it has a very long flex part. It needed some brute force but it bent to the needed place well. Its blocked now though as there is nothing to actuate it.
20220526_010136 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_010154 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrWent along with removing the D5252T oil cooler adapter casting, and installed the D24TIC one which is already turned upwards a bit:
20220526_010142 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThis greeted me with this sweet and easy job for the oil feedline.
For the top section, it uses the Audi feedline, for the bottom very small section it uses the D5252T turbo side feedline:
20220526_185439 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_185444 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrAfter some TIG madness and polishing later:
20220526_191159 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_193917 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrTurned the engine upside down again, continued the oil pickup tube. I had no intact old design metal pickup ends with the fine filter, so i went with the newer design, which has a more coarse filter:
20220601_223217 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220601_223250 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220601_233913 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen the problems began as these went a bit too well. In the national Audi C4 group, i saw a lot of guys struggling with loosening and breaking the crank main bearing cap bolts in the 5pot 2.5TDIs. Not all of the bolts, but mainly the second and third ones are the ones which let go.
There is no consensus about the culprit, heavy guesswork of the group was focusing on worn harmonic balancer pulleys, worn dual mass flywheels, some guys think it was surely because higher power outputs...
Some guys said its perfectly okay after 400-500tkm in stock engines, and that it just needs to be changed regularly. I was on the other end, that its not at all acceptable for a non moving part to just simply loosen up and eventually break, and that it needs to be replaced regularly. Nobody found correlation between tuned engines and the loosening. Some people had them break while they were just casually cruising at normal speeds.
Bulletproof TDI engine hah?
Bolts are fully threaded M10x80 10.9, flanged hex head bolts.
At this time I still thought going 12.9 is the way to go. Ordered them, went along and found that 2. and 3. cap bolts came loose a bit too easy...
Moved on anyway, changed bolts without removing the caps. Two by two. Oiled the bolts and torqued them. Then something weird happened because at the second cap, the crankshaft seized after torquing. I was not happy...
20220604_231103 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220605_003810 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThe bearing looks perfectly fine for a 500tkm engine, but why does it seize up the crank?
After some time in that fb group, a dude mentioned the same scenario but after a broken bolt. He said they hammered the cap until the crank turned freely, assembled the engine, idled it for a hour, changed oil. They started using it, but without revving over 2500rpm. After 5000km, another oil change. They have been using it since then, without any problems, with some mods, on the limiter, for four years now... I was like, what can I lose with trying it too.
Torqued to 80Nm, then started hammering on the cap. Indeed the crank eventually got free. Hammered a bit more, it became better. Still not perfect, but thought it will make room for itself.
20220605_163437 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrHad to to something about the dipstick situation. Checked the angle and position of the bore, and it was the same as the D24. Created this piece of art D24 dipstick calibrator:
284641300_1402494810174065_6020745926237333931_n by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThis way, with using the D5252T dipstick housing and a redblock dipstick, i needed to remove (iirc) 10-15mm from the housing to get it right.
And the final assembled bottom end with a new PTFE rear main seal:
20220606_004213 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
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Great to see all this, great work! I am envious for sure
Pretty handy how you can mix and match so many parts from the compatible engines, the Audi 2.5 and the D5252T and the D24TIC. For such an involved swap you have been able to use a lot of factory parts. I like how nicely the Audi manifold fits with the D24TIC oil filter mount.
Pretty strange story on the main cap bolts, I have never heard of that ever on the 4cyl TDI engines or the 6cyl D24 family so have to imagine that is true that it's a particular 5cyl harmonic vibration kind of issue. Still, it is weird since the bottom ends are so robust overall on these motors. Sounds like you got a good solution to it.
Look forward to seeing the rest of it come together, keep the build info coming.
Pretty handy how you can mix and match so many parts from the compatible engines, the Audi 2.5 and the D5252T and the D24TIC. For such an involved swap you have been able to use a lot of factory parts. I like how nicely the Audi manifold fits with the D24TIC oil filter mount.
Pretty strange story on the main cap bolts, I have never heard of that ever on the 4cyl TDI engines or the 6cyl D24 family so have to imagine that is true that it's a particular 5cyl harmonic vibration kind of issue. Still, it is weird since the bottom ends are so robust overall on these motors. Sounds like you got a good solution to it.
Look forward to seeing the rest of it come together, keep the build info coming.
Great to see all this, great work! I am envious for sure
Pretty handy how you can mix and match so many parts from the compatible engines, the Audi 2.5 and the D5252T and the D24TIC. For such an involved swap you have been able to use a lot of factory parts. I like how nicely the Audi manifold fits with the D24TIC oil filter mount.
Pretty strange story on the main cap bolts, I have never heard of that ever on the 4cyl TDI engines or the 6cyl D24 family so have to imagine that is true that it's a particular 5cyl harmonic vibration kind of issue. Still, it is weird since the bottom ends are so robust overall on these motors. Sounds like you got a good solution to it.
Look forward to seeing the rest of it come together, keep the build info coming.
Thanks!
Yeah its really great that they did stick with the old designs, and mostly they are really compatible. It helped a lot with keeping it oem looking.
Indeed I think also its related only to 5 cylinder engines and its harmonies, and would be cool if someone would dug deeper into this problem...
Thanks!
Would be curious to see yours too! What gearbox and diff are you running?
With a 2 series, sometimes i was playing with the idea of installing a 10vt but petrol engine.
Onto the build:
Continued with cleaning the valvetrain area, on the stand, upside down. Removed first and rear camshaft cap, cleaned surfaces and the seals, installed them properly with grease and rtv where needed. Cleaned the water pump mating surfaces and installed a new one.
20220606_223505 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrFabricated the oil-coolant heat exchanger metal tube, which is going behind the timing belt. With that painted and installed, I installed and set the tension of the timing belt.
20220610_013642 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_013713 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_013704 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen bumped into a heavy problem with the heavy pulley. I had a ****ty tool to counterhold while applying +180degs after 160nm, and it cracked...
20220610_013627 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_014234 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThese values are no joke, i learned. What works at a 10v oldie petrol engine, does not work here.
So i fabbed this monsterous piece and applied the angle way too easily with a heavy 3/4" breaker bar. Of course with a new INA harmonic balancer pulley, straight from China.
20220614_212509 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220614_211409 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen installed the fuel pump, and tried to install the rear timing belt with the tensioner and idler. At first i wanted to keep the D5252T setup, but quickly realised with the Audi pump holder casting, it wont work without fabricating.
20220615_003834 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrRemoved the additional rotating masses:
20220615_011311 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThen realised even if it fits there, it has a different offset:
20220615_020817 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrWhat i learned: Volvo uses a non adjustable pump holder casting along with a different, non adjustable pump. Audi uses an adjustable one. And as im using the Audi holder, I just went with the Audi rear timing setup, with the metal rollers.
Then sometime during this period of the assembly, the oilpan got secured on. Only mistake i made that i ordered a gasket for the sheetmetal Audi oil pan. One section is a tiny bit different, but nothing serious what a little rtv can't fix.
Oh, and i forgot to add that a fellow Volvo buddy was refreshing/resealing his D24TIC during all this time. Helped him going through the process. The garage was pretty much a mess:
20220530_200317 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This D24 jumped back into his car in around 10th of june. He had a ****load of motivation and worked all night, when i got back in the morning it was almost ready for a startup.
Decided that I really want to hear the TDI before putting it to the car. Practically bench testing the various fabrications, the built pump, the pump timing, the hammered crank main cap, the unknown condition 500tkm engine...
Chained it to the little dolly, added a starter motor. Funny thing the early D24 starter is so big, it wont fit on the TDI, even though the placement, the mount and ring gear is the same.
Tried to prime the oil system without fuel pump belt and without glow plugs - no luck, the oil pickup tube is just too long.
Installed the belt and plugs, primed the pump with diesel, cranked it (click for video):
20220617_021523 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This was i think the 3rd startup, it sounded so promising already. The first ones were smokey a bit until the fuel system bleeded itself.
I was happy that it starts easily, has no weird noises, no weird knocks.
Rolled it outside, added a few more coolant hoses and used garden hose to continously flush the heat away. Ran it for a good few hours, listened for any weirdness but it just ran ok.
Although upon revving up, around 2000rpm, it had some rough time igniting the fuel, and it smoked too. Turned out that the mechanical setup of the pump was way too retarded, and it just did not run right. Adjusted it by feel, until it had almost clear revving up noises and seemingly no smoke
For some truck noises, click on this:
20220619_210122 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
In total it ran for about 5-6 hours, so i called the bench testing a success. This way I finally calmed down, and had the motivation, and finally the space to sort the garage for the upcoming engine swap.
And the day came finally. Off with the gearbox, out with the D24, ready for the TDI:
20220621_222327 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
TDI finally in its place
20220622_000753 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Tried on the PS pump to check hood clearance. It seemed tight, but the gearbox rotated the engine further forward, so it gained more clearance. Fun fact the original D24TIC PS feed hose fits straight on to the late TDI PS pump.
Then got a fun indigestion, when i got better i went to a festival, came home with a light cold.
When I finally felt alright, I added the other ancillaries and started wiring it up with the previously rebuilt D24TIC harness:
20220711_140901 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Installed the machined stainless fitting for the heat exchanger hoses:
20220711_140913 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151255 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_140958 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Oh, and i forgot to add that a fellow Volvo buddy was refreshing/resealing his D24TIC during all this time. Helped him going through the process. The garage was pretty much a mess:
20220530_200317 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThis D24 jumped back into his car in around 10th of june. He had a ****load of motivation and worked all night, when i got back in the morning it was almost ready for a startup.
Decided that I really want to hear the TDI before putting it to the car. Practically bench testing the various fabrications, the built pump, the pump timing, the hammered crank main cap, the unknown condition 500tkm engine...
Chained it to the little dolly, added a starter motor. Funny thing the early D24 starter is so big, it wont fit on the TDI, even though the placement, the mount and ring gear is the same.
Tried to prime the oil system without fuel pump belt and without glow plugs - no luck, the oil pickup tube is just too long.
Installed the belt and plugs, primed the pump with diesel, cranked it (click for video):
20220617_021523 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrThis was i think the 3rd startup, it sounded so promising already. The first ones were smokey a bit until the fuel system bleeded itself.
I was happy that it starts easily, has no weird noises, no weird knocks.
Rolled it outside, added a few more coolant hoses and used garden hose to continously flush the heat away. Ran it for a good few hours, listened for any weirdness but it just ran ok.
Although upon revving up, around 2000rpm, it had some rough time igniting the fuel, and it smoked too. Turned out that the mechanical setup of the pump was way too retarded, and it just did not run right. Adjusted it by feel, until it had almost clear revving up noises and seemingly no smoke
For some truck noises, click on this:
20220619_210122 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrIn total it ran for about 5-6 hours, so i called the bench testing a success. This way I finally calmed down, and had the motivation, and finally the space to sort the garage for the upcoming engine swap.
And the day came finally. Off with the gearbox, out with the D24, ready for the TDI:
20220621_222327 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrTDI finally in its place
20220622_000753 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrTried on the PS pump to check hood clearance. It seemed tight, but the gearbox rotated the engine further forward, so it gained more clearance. Fun fact the original D24TIC PS feed hose fits straight on to the late TDI PS pump.
Then got a fun indigestion, when i got better i went to a festival, came home with a light cold.
When I finally felt alright, I added the other ancillaries and started wiring it up with the previously rebuilt D24TIC harness:
20220711_140901 by P?ter Gede, on FlickrInstalled the machined stainless fitting for the heat exchanger hoses:
20220711_140913 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220711_151255 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr20220711_140958 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Last edited:
nordmaschine
forced instruction
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2012
- Location
- The Balkans, BiH
Apparently, old V8 should fit D24 bellhousing, from all I've heard. I have yet to confirm that, but I should pick up one of those engines some time soon, so I'll be sure to check. I burried that BAU somewhere in the back of my storage in the mean time, but from what I remember, all the holes were "just a bit" off, as well as the starter casting on the block not lining up, also by "just a bit"... Flywheel/flexplate doesn't fit inside bellhousing, but D24 flywheel bolt holes line up, though crank snout diameter is is larger by a fraction of milimeter, I have exact amount written *somewhere*. Balancing that would be another issue though.
As someone pointed out, I could have used C5/B5 Quattro gearbox with front diff removed/welded, but that thing is just huge and heavy. Strong, plentiful and cheap Getrags still seem like the best option, but that bridge is still far ahead...
I have a couple, if you want one we could find a way to make it happen. Also sory for the derail, but all of this is somewhat relevant, right?BAU motor, if you don't use it, maybe you can box it up and ship it to me.
OP, sorry for the thread discussion derail. Looking forward to seeing this project continue, lots of fun to watch so far!
BTW, Peter, why did you go with mechanical pump in the end? Nothing wrong with it per se, especially from dependability standpoint, but electronic control allows for lower consumption, more adjustment and ultimately higher power with less smoke, don't you think?
https://youtube.com/shorts/0K22hxvGKPs?feature=share
dontknowyou
Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2019
forgive my ignorance;
the volvo diesel and the tdi have the same ???
is the tdi like a 5 cyl version of the volvo one? could someone please explain the similarities and differences? i would love to understand
amazing work btw
the volvo diesel and the tdi have the same ???
is the tdi like a 5 cyl version of the volvo one? could someone please explain the similarities and differences? i would love to understand
amazing work btw
OVERDRIVE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2017
- Location
- Brooklyn, Neu York
Most simply put, The D24 is shared architecture with the 1.6 VW indirect injection diesel, the R5 2.5 TDI is shared architecture with the 1.9 VW TDI motors, VW 5 and 6 cylinder engines generally share the same bell housing like these motors, so a 1.9 TDI won't bolt in but the 2.5 inline 5 bolts to the D24 transmission. The oil pan from the D24 can be cut and shortened like people do when putting a Volvo 5 cylinder whiteblock into a RWD. No where near bolt in but they share a lot of things in common. I have seen VW LT vans with the 2.5 TDI, those were also D24 in many applications.
nordmaschine
forced instruction
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2012
- Location
- The Balkans, BiH
Basically what he said.
In my neck of the woods, there is still a lot of Mk1 VW LT vans/trucks, that originally came with D24/T/TIC running around with 2.5TDI-s swapped. Unfortunately, most people lack nerves/time/knowledge to retain electronic IP's and default to slapping Audi C3 2.0TD IDI injection pumps on and calling it a day, which makes for less-than-underwhelming performance...
As for oil pan... I like bashing into things, so if and when I finally get to swapping the I5 into a 7/9, I'll go with an old Audi gasser steel pan. I have a couple of those engines, but have yet to remove pan from any. Bolt-wise I know they fit, but does anyone know of a possibe problem? Obviously, I would hack-n-weld it and adjust oil pickup accordingly, but besides that?
In my neck of the woods, there is still a lot of Mk1 VW LT vans/trucks, that originally came with D24/T/TIC running around with 2.5TDI-s swapped. Unfortunately, most people lack nerves/time/knowledge to retain electronic IP's and default to slapping Audi C3 2.0TD IDI injection pumps on and calling it a day, which makes for less-than-underwhelming performance...
As for oil pan... I like bashing into things, so if and when I finally get to swapping the I5 into a 7/9, I'll go with an old Audi gasser steel pan. I have a couple of those engines, but have yet to remove pan from any. Bolt-wise I know they fit, but does anyone know of a possibe problem? Obviously, I would hack-n-weld it and adjust oil pickup accordingly, but besides that?
Few things leaded me towards mechanical pump: keeping the engine bay ancient looking for MOT easeness, keeping the engine runability depend on only one magnetic valve, lack of desire to pull dash to wire in anything.
After 10tkm though, i see why i could benefit from an electronic setup, but more of this later on!
I would go again with the aluminium sump shortening if i had to. Steel is easier to work on with simpler tooling, but it will never really look nice, plus the thin sheetmetal warpage - leak problems. Hell, even unmolested, they tend to leak, or at least thats my experience.
Yeah, back on the story:
20220711_151302 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151312 by Péter Gede, on FlickrStock TIC ps feedline almost could fit. But the end flare was different and it just did not sit in the right angle. TIGd on the appropriate end flare in the right angle.
20220711_151629 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151642 by Péter Gede, on FlickrKept the TIC catalytic converter, connected it with the art of work Audi downpipe.
20220711_155843 by Péter Gede, on FlickrSerpentine belt on and looking nice
20220711_172930 by Péter Gede, on FlickrFlipped rear coolant connector with the glow plugs. No pic of the work sadly. I did not rejoin the cut off piece because it had larger mating diameter. I got one made on the lathe, to join a heater hose from a redblock, so IIRC 16mm.
20220711_172947 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_173016 by Péter Gede, on FlickrMANY (problems - i guess)
And the almost finished bay:
20220715_152927 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152937 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152944 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152952 by Péter Gede, on FlickrAir filter to turbo uses a mix of TIC and V70 parts, they are just pushed together because they match the diameter at that spot.
Turbo to intercooler piping uses the TIC aluminium tubing with one V70 rubber piece right at the turbo. Its nowhere near a perfect fit, but it works.
Intercooler to intake manifold uses V70 piping. Only one weld was needed, nothing else. Rubber pieces are also V70.
Top coolant hose is a mixture of redblock hoses. Lower coolant hose consists of an unmolested TIC hose and a silicon 90deg hose reducer from 38 to 35mm.
As you can see there is still no electric cooling fan on the radiator.
Anyways, test ride happened, and i was smiling a lot! At first i was easy with the accelerator, mostly because the hammered main cap... Then i started to drive it like a total fool and liked it even more.
After an afternoon of driving around, seeing no leaks, hearing no weird noises, in the evening i went for a few days of wild camping with it, and put in more than 500kms at that weekend. Fortunately nothing broke, nothing let loose, it just worked as it was intended to.
20220716_094025 by Péter Gede, on FlickrAt top of Zádorvár - old ruins. The lake in the distance is Balaton. Pretty morning view it was as we arrived around midnight. Good times!
Last edited:
Few pic to sum up the rest of the summer:
20220804_171928 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220820_075632 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220824_200615 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Trips, festivals, cooking, having drinks, sleeping in car.
Doing a 400km roundtrip with that trailer was fun though, selling and bringing a few unneeded parts to other car guys... The previously bought AAT TDI engine to one guy, and various 740 front end components for crash repair to another. The trailer is actually a nice touch for wild camping as it blocks most of the view.
The available torque of the engine made it pretty effortless through the mountains, even though the trailer is pretty heavy.
Meanwhile, I had to use the Volvos daily as the little corsa needed some serious work and inspection... After the TDI seemed to work ok, i started to DD this thing around mid july, and continued until end of january, as i switched workplaces. 2x20km per day.
It never let me down, and i only needed to wire up the glow plugs when the colder weather kicked in around october.
20220921_125545 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Quick test of a fresh column lift on a truck at workplace.
While daily driving this thing, of course the few little problems started to grow on me. The most irritating was the shuddering clutch. It is either coming from the frictional properties (100grit sanded flywheel, rebuilt disc, resurfaced pp) or the bad welding work at the splines. To cure this I bought this beauty:
20221022_214214 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
I will be able to use an unmodified 240mm clutch disc with this. Will send the flywheel too for some resurfacing.
Second irritating problem is the really short diff ratio. 3,54, and revs seems a lot when going on the autobahn. Searched for MK1 IRS, with some mods that would accept a BMW diff with a ratio around 2,5. But couldnt find any and the fab work seemed a bit too much.
Also this is where the mechanical fuel pump started to feel not so okay. I havent dyno'd the car yet, but it seems like the power is heavily dropping near 3500rpm, while it should rise for another 500rpm.
Decided on buying a 3,08 diff ratio from skandix. I think it comes from Yukon gear and axle. Well, im not overly satisfied with the build quality and aesthetic, but lets hope the dana 30 design, material, hardening process, and machining all works out for some long term abuse. I will either use it with a G80 or a torsen, thats not decided yet.
Then when the colder weather came and i drove much more with rolled up windows, i started to feel again that the whole driveline is vibrating periodically. I felt this even with the D24TIC before...
Checked u-joints, centre mount, etc. Somehow i wanted to measure it, so i downloaded Spectroid app and did some measuring:
Screenshot_20230110-101350_Spectroid by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Its at 41Hz, peaks every 4-5seconds. Deep rumble. Did some calculations, even a 3d model of the driveshaft and some motion analization and i did get to this frequency at these speeds. Played around with driveshaft angles too on the model. Interestingly only the centre mount lifting seemed to reduce the angular speed variations at the end of the shaft.
Tried a few different setups, angles, and only the centre support bearing lifting made a measureable difference when accelerating in third gear. I lifted it around 10mms. The periodic massacre is still present. Added some bushings to the centre support sheet. From Volvo gearbox bushings:
20230113_173341 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20230113_173333 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20230113_184959 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
This did help a bit, but it is still a headache. We will see how the M90 and its driveshaft makes any change...
Current plans are, step by step:
-Dyno
-M90, flywheel resurfacing, rebuilt non modified clutch disc - see if it cures the clutch shuddering and driveline vibration.
-3,08 axle installation, see how useable the car becomes on autobahn
-Electronic fuel pump
-Dyno
20220804_171928 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20220820_075632 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20220824_200615 by Péter Gede, on FlickrTrips, festivals, cooking, having drinks, sleeping in car.
Doing a 400km roundtrip with that trailer was fun though, selling and bringing a few unneeded parts to other car guys... The previously bought AAT TDI engine to one guy, and various 740 front end components for crash repair to another. The trailer is actually a nice touch for wild camping as it blocks most of the view.
The available torque of the engine made it pretty effortless through the mountains, even though the trailer is pretty heavy.
Meanwhile, I had to use the Volvos daily as the little corsa needed some serious work and inspection... After the TDI seemed to work ok, i started to DD this thing around mid july, and continued until end of january, as i switched workplaces. 2x20km per day.
It never let me down, and i only needed to wire up the glow plugs when the colder weather kicked in around october.
20220921_125545 by Péter Gede, on FlickrQuick test of a fresh column lift on a truck at workplace.
While daily driving this thing, of course the few little problems started to grow on me. The most irritating was the shuddering clutch. It is either coming from the frictional properties (100grit sanded flywheel, rebuilt disc, resurfaced pp) or the bad welding work at the splines. To cure this I bought this beauty:
20221022_214214 by Péter Gede, on FlickrI will be able to use an unmodified 240mm clutch disc with this. Will send the flywheel too for some resurfacing.
Second irritating problem is the really short diff ratio. 3,54, and revs seems a lot when going on the autobahn. Searched for MK1 IRS, with some mods that would accept a BMW diff with a ratio around 2,5. But couldnt find any and the fab work seemed a bit too much.
Also this is where the mechanical fuel pump started to feel not so okay. I havent dyno'd the car yet, but it seems like the power is heavily dropping near 3500rpm, while it should rise for another 500rpm.
Decided on buying a 3,08 diff ratio from skandix. I think it comes from Yukon gear and axle. Well, im not overly satisfied with the build quality and aesthetic, but lets hope the dana 30 design, material, hardening process, and machining all works out for some long term abuse. I will either use it with a G80 or a torsen, thats not decided yet.
Then when the colder weather came and i drove much more with rolled up windows, i started to feel again that the whole driveline is vibrating periodically. I felt this even with the D24TIC before...
Checked u-joints, centre mount, etc. Somehow i wanted to measure it, so i downloaded Spectroid app and did some measuring:
Screenshot_20230110-101350_Spectroid by Péter Gede, on FlickrIts at 41Hz, peaks every 4-5seconds. Deep rumble. Did some calculations, even a 3d model of the driveshaft and some motion analization and i did get to this frequency at these speeds. Played around with driveshaft angles too on the model. Interestingly only the centre mount lifting seemed to reduce the angular speed variations at the end of the shaft.
Tried a few different setups, angles, and only the centre support bearing lifting made a measureable difference when accelerating in third gear. I lifted it around 10mms. The periodic massacre is still present. Added some bushings to the centre support sheet. From Volvo gearbox bushings:
20230113_173341 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20230113_173333 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20230113_184959 by Péter Gede, on FlickrThis did help a bit, but it is still a headache. We will see how the M90 and its driveshaft makes any change...
Current plans are, step by step:
-Dyno
-M90, flywheel resurfacing, rebuilt non modified clutch disc - see if it cures the clutch shuddering and driveline vibration.
-3,08 axle installation, see how useable the car becomes on autobahn
-Electronic fuel pump
-Dyno
Many things happened in more than a year. As I changed workplaces in 2023 February, I started to work as a test engineer. I ended up driving (test) trucks and buses, which was really a dream of mine. Had the chance and worked in the home country of these cars which make headache to a lot of us here on the forum!
20240105_105151 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20240221_144246 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20240315_092300 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
If everything goes well i will go back next year. In that far on the north, still many bricks are used regularly, which was quite pleasant to my eye. Sadly I did not experience proper ice lake driving in one of these, just in a 8x8 truck, but the feeling was close.
-------------
20230218_101420 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Bought another wagon, a '98 B200FT/M90. This project is basically stopped now. Chassis is kinda bent upfront, but rust wise, and mechanically it is waay too good to let it out of my hands. We will see.
-------------
Onto the TDI:
Did not bring it to Dyno, but finally experienced some proper power with it with a pressure regulator hooked up to the other side of the wastegate (spring side). Kind of like a mechanical N75 valve. Way better than without a wastegate hose. I don't think I will go with an electric fuel pump any soon.
Installed the front swaybar with 25mm spacers, then brought it to a Trackday as it was: still no radiator fan, cut springs upfront, kinda tired brakes, 6 y/o bridgestones, open diff. It was really really a fun event, the car did it without any mechanical failure! Windshield although cracked soon afterwards.
344824700_6851759968191305_3698005466670607465_n by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20230430_Trackday2 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
At first i quickly overheated the brakes, I needed to adapt to a limited braking capacity. This soon allowed me to run laps after laps without losing brakes, and still doing better and better lap times. The tires were really really crap, but at least i got a feeling about all this. I only did simulator racing in LFS previously, it was fun to apply the experiences from there.
Stuff without interesting pics:
-Dana30 740 axle and 3,08 ring&pinion is at the guy who is assembling it. Axle is already blasted and painted.
-Trimmed and installed the splash guard to clear the 25mm spaced down swaybar.
-Battery holder was fabricated after years of battery splashing around
-Windshield got changed, fortunately minimal rust was there
-INA (china) crank pulley was replaced with an used but actually rubbery pulley
-Front seats were disassembled and sent to get refurbrished
-Updated the clutch fork to closed style at the slave cylinder, added the M90 plastic bushing to the fork centre pivot point, greased the pp diaphragm pivot point - clutch is easy and smooth to operate now. Still M46 though.
-Changed the intercooler as it was leaking oil (cracked end tank)
-Changed the left mirror insert
-Sorted the water leak problem (plastic covers in the A pillars were sealed)
-Fuel pump throttle lever spring was changed to D24, as throttle pedal was way too hard
Big improvement on the dashboard:
20240323_190035 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Finally massaged in a later model fuel gauge as per this helpful page: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalInstrumentClusterInterchangeability.htm
Actually I tried it before, but did not notice the different track layout somehow. Now it is showing full when i fill it up.
I Wired the adjusting knobs for the clock too.
Big improvement for the multimedia system:
20240426_173930 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Years of driving with a broken antenna, it was really bugging me that the FM reception is poor. When i finally got a replacement (almost broken) aerial, i torched apart the old one just for fun. Then realised it is really a simple design and can be repaired. I needed a copper M5 threaded sleeve, a 3d printed insulation, M5 stud, bearing retaining compound, and a cheap universal aerial:
20240429_193417 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
FM reception is wonderful now.
Then soon i realised summer is close, too close. I don't want to be able to delightfully cruise only during the night. So the AC project started.
Firstly I tackled the radiator fan/relay issue, as the AC would actively use it. Sourced a 940 electric fan.
20231206_231042 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20240417_013051 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
As car was a clutch fan type previously, I needed to source the AC pressure switch connectors too and their wiring. Drilled the radiator to accept the Volvo style coolant fan switch. Finally the fan is in and working properly. Will eventually add a fuse to the main positive of the relay.
Secondly the AC hardlines needed some thinking where they should be routed. When i put in the engine, this task seemed a bit too much for me, but now somehow it was all straightforward, made them short and compact with the least amount of welding needed.
20240329_015340 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Then when i bought Argon, i Tigged and leak tested them.
Thirdly, with a big hope in my unknown condition AC compressor, it was the time for the AC guys to actually connect the hardlines with new hoses, change my radiator, drier, orifice tube, leak test, and finally fill it up with refrigerant.
20240429_193738 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20240429_193746 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
They did a pretty good job, i finally have a car which has a working AC! Pretty weird to think about it, and that i don't need to worry about summer sauna parties in the car.
The cycling of the compressor quickly became a bit annoying though, sooo:
Removed the electro-mechanical cruise control (Eurocruise EC-2000) from brownie and installed it, along with a volvo cruise control stalk:
20240504_013926 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20240504_014034 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Fortunately matching the stalk and the control wiring was not that hard, and after some time fine tuning the system, it is pretty nice to use.
Now I'm patiently waiting for my long ratio axle. Soon will swap the M90 in, and do something about the charge pressure regulation, as it has a lot of potential. Seats would be eventually nice too, as currently I have a tired red 740 cloth seat on the passenger side.
20240105_105151 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20240221_144246 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20240315_092300 by Péter Gede, on FlickrIf everything goes well i will go back next year. In that far on the north, still many bricks are used regularly, which was quite pleasant to my eye. Sadly I did not experience proper ice lake driving in one of these, just in a 8x8 truck, but the feeling was close.
-------------
20230218_101420 by Péter Gede, on FlickrBought another wagon, a '98 B200FT/M90. This project is basically stopped now. Chassis is kinda bent upfront, but rust wise, and mechanically it is waay too good to let it out of my hands. We will see.
-------------
Onto the TDI:
Did not bring it to Dyno, but finally experienced some proper power with it with a pressure regulator hooked up to the other side of the wastegate (spring side). Kind of like a mechanical N75 valve. Way better than without a wastegate hose. I don't think I will go with an electric fuel pump any soon.
Installed the front swaybar with 25mm spacers, then brought it to a Trackday as it was: still no radiator fan, cut springs upfront, kinda tired brakes, 6 y/o bridgestones, open diff. It was really really a fun event, the car did it without any mechanical failure! Windshield although cracked soon afterwards.
344824700_6851759968191305_3698005466670607465_n by Péter Gede, on Flickr20230430_Trackday2 by Péter Gede, on FlickrAt first i quickly overheated the brakes, I needed to adapt to a limited braking capacity. This soon allowed me to run laps after laps without losing brakes, and still doing better and better lap times. The tires were really really crap, but at least i got a feeling about all this. I only did simulator racing in LFS previously, it was fun to apply the experiences from there.
Stuff without interesting pics:
-Dana30 740 axle and 3,08 ring&pinion is at the guy who is assembling it. Axle is already blasted and painted.
-Trimmed and installed the splash guard to clear the 25mm spaced down swaybar.
-Battery holder was fabricated after years of battery splashing around
-Windshield got changed, fortunately minimal rust was there
-INA (china) crank pulley was replaced with an used but actually rubbery pulley
-Front seats were disassembled and sent to get refurbrished
-Updated the clutch fork to closed style at the slave cylinder, added the M90 plastic bushing to the fork centre pivot point, greased the pp diaphragm pivot point - clutch is easy and smooth to operate now. Still M46 though.
-Changed the intercooler as it was leaking oil (cracked end tank)
-Changed the left mirror insert
-Sorted the water leak problem (plastic covers in the A pillars were sealed)
-Fuel pump throttle lever spring was changed to D24, as throttle pedal was way too hard
Big improvement on the dashboard:
20240323_190035 by Péter Gede, on FlickrFinally massaged in a later model fuel gauge as per this helpful page: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalInstrumentClusterInterchangeability.htm
Actually I tried it before, but did not notice the different track layout somehow. Now it is showing full when i fill it up.
I Wired the adjusting knobs for the clock too.
Big improvement for the multimedia system:
20240426_173930 by Péter Gede, on FlickrYears of driving with a broken antenna, it was really bugging me that the FM reception is poor. When i finally got a replacement (almost broken) aerial, i torched apart the old one just for fun. Then realised it is really a simple design and can be repaired. I needed a copper M5 threaded sleeve, a 3d printed insulation, M5 stud, bearing retaining compound, and a cheap universal aerial:
20240429_193417 by Péter Gede, on FlickrFM reception is wonderful now.
Then soon i realised summer is close, too close. I don't want to be able to delightfully cruise only during the night. So the AC project started.
Firstly I tackled the radiator fan/relay issue, as the AC would actively use it. Sourced a 940 electric fan.
20231206_231042 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20240417_013051 by Péter Gede, on FlickrAs car was a clutch fan type previously, I needed to source the AC pressure switch connectors too and their wiring. Drilled the radiator to accept the Volvo style coolant fan switch. Finally the fan is in and working properly. Will eventually add a fuse to the main positive of the relay.
Secondly the AC hardlines needed some thinking where they should be routed. When i put in the engine, this task seemed a bit too much for me, but now somehow it was all straightforward, made them short and compact with the least amount of welding needed.
20240329_015340 by Péter Gede, on FlickrThen when i bought Argon, i Tigged and leak tested them.
Thirdly, with a big hope in my unknown condition AC compressor, it was the time for the AC guys to actually connect the hardlines with new hoses, change my radiator, drier, orifice tube, leak test, and finally fill it up with refrigerant.
20240429_193738 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20240429_193746 by Péter Gede, on FlickrThey did a pretty good job, i finally have a car which has a working AC! Pretty weird to think about it, and that i don't need to worry about summer sauna parties in the car.
The cycling of the compressor quickly became a bit annoying though, sooo:
Removed the electro-mechanical cruise control (Eurocruise EC-2000) from brownie and installed it, along with a volvo cruise control stalk:
20240504_013926 by Péter Gede, on Flickr20240504_014034 by Péter Gede, on FlickrFortunately matching the stalk and the control wiring was not that hard, and after some time fine tuning the system, it is pretty nice to use.
Now I'm patiently waiting for my long ratio axle. Soon will swap the M90 in, and do something about the charge pressure regulation, as it has a lot of potential. Seats would be eventually nice too, as currently I have a tired red 740 cloth seat on the passenger side.
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DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW GA / East TN
Wow, you've done a lot of work to your wagon! I didn't read this entire thread, but what brand is the 2.5L TDI?
Next, how will the M90 adapt to your engine? I'm assembling parts for a B63XX whiteblock swap with M90 into my 90 745. I wish we had access to the front half of the prop shaft in your pictures.... there simply weren't any M90s sold in the US Market so we are left with shortening and rebalancing of the AW7X driveshaft front half.
Wasn't there also a 3.15 final drive ratio used in European markets for diesel cars? Seems an easier task to swap a complete 1041 assembly than to fit a new final drive ratio..... I've done my share of both and would easily prefer the complete DANA replacement over setting up a new ratio with crush sleeve, preload carrier bearings, etc. etc.
Next, how will the M90 adapt to your engine? I'm assembling parts for a B63XX whiteblock swap with M90 into my 90 745. I wish we had access to the front half of the prop shaft in your pictures.... there simply weren't any M90s sold in the US Market so we are left with shortening and rebalancing of the AW7X driveshaft front half.
Wasn't there also a 3.15 final drive ratio used in European markets for diesel cars? Seems an easier task to swap a complete 1041 assembly than to fit a new final drive ratio..... I've done my share of both and would easily prefer the complete DANA replacement over setting up a new ratio with crush sleeve, preload carrier bearings, etc. etc.
Both the D24 and the 2.5TDI comes from VW, they share the bellhousing pattern, and have a lot in common. Even the 850/S70/V70/S80 got the TDI from the factory under the engine code D5252T. Very good at consumption and reliability. (minus the main bearing bolt loosening) Thats why it is a favourable engine in place of the ancient D24 lump.
And as the late model 940s got the M90 transmissions in EU, the D24TIC ones weren't an excemption either. They are pretty rare though, I hope mine will have good enough syncros.
3,15 axle is really really rare here, unfortunately. Few weeks ago I seen a new 1031 3,15 r&p in the for sale section here, and thought that i should have just bought one like that from sweden, not to worry about breaking the 1030 3,08
But I think it will be okay, I won't be using racing slicks and do drag races.I would kindly do the install myself, it is not too difficult. I just dont have the tooling. Thats why its outsourced to someone who already did hundreds of assemblies.