Interesting how i avoid this topic too along with the car, when it is not behaving too well... Sadly the axle started to whine at certain speeds when the oil is hot, and the driveline vibrations are still not solved. I drove like 2000km last year at maximum...
Really cool project! As someone that loves Volvos and VAG diesels, it doesn't get cooler than this. The 2.5 TDI is an excellent engine, I really wish they had sold it here in North America. We did get the 5.0 V10 TDI which is in some sense, essentially two of them merged together, which is awesome but absurdly impractical.
I'm curious why you decided to go with a fully mechanical injection pump? After owning a lot of both old and new VAG diesels, I've gradually come around to preferring a computer controlled injection system where you can have a lot more control over the engine- more power, less smoke, and easier to diagnose issues with VCDS.
The 3.0 V6 TDI (which I have in my Touareg) is a great engine also, that we did get here, but I'm not sure it would physically fit into a Volvo engine bay, as it is extremely wide. However, I think it also uses the same bellhousing as the D24.
Word on the street is that the Porsche 996/986 cars also use the same D24 bellhousing, I think it would be fun/insane to build a TDI Porsche 911 or Boxster.
Thank you!
The V10 is a newer design than this though, that era R5 TDI is quite different than this 2.5TDI. I seen a disassembly video of this V10 on youtube. Looks like a sweaty bad nightmare.
To me simplicity is also a factor, and doubling the cylinder heads is certainly something i would not want. Otherwise i would have much more powerful cars.
This is the reason for going mech injection, so i dont have to mess with wiring. Downside is the exact things you mention.
Yeah you're right!
And can you tell us for exemple, what kind of rpm you reach at 130 km/h in 5th gear?
Between 2600-2700 with 3,08. Previously it was between 3000-3100 with 3,54.
I really like this long gearing in this configuration.
Hi .First thing nice job clean SWAP for old boxy volvo. I look on your project and i want to make same for my 96 sedan with tic engine . For now i got few questions to you ?
1. How you measure how much you need cut oil pan ?
2. What about glow plugs you use orginal d24 relay ?
I found anwser for sceond question you can use d24 relay for glow plugs
Hey! Thank you! Good luck on your journey!
I'm not the first one doing this but it is good to share ideas and making the swap more straightforward to others. Will you do a thread or share a photo gallery? I'll be curious on your approach!
1. - You line up the pan with the back of the engine, check and mark which bolt holes line up with the threaded bores. Do the same with bolting the pan to the front of the engine. You can also mark some reference from the block to the pan in these two positions, then you have the dimension you need.
2. - I did not care about glowplugs until it got cold (+5 to +7 degs), then as a quick solution, i threaded a random hole on the fuel pump bracket to hold the d24 glowplug temp sensor. Still using the same old D24 relay. Therefore it always reads colder than what the engine is, but i can always start the engine before the cycle is finished, so it is not perfect but OK.
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Car is not really driven much, and I was also been looking at T4 transporters with the same engine. At one point i posted a for sale ad to see the interest. Well, nobody was really into this at that price, with the issues and the non factory engine. (originality check of the car would fail)
I do not like the strictness of this country, that you basically cannot do interesting builds legally. I'd happily pay a bit more tax or insurance to overcome this, but government haven't noticed this kind of income possibility so far...
We will see where this stumbling leads. I did however drive a friends vibration free (
) D24T 740 wagon, which gave me some motivation to track back the issue. But now my wagon also needs inspection.
