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White Block Decisions

Alden

ALDORF THE DESTROYER OF WHITE SHIRTS
Joined
Sep 29, 2008
Location
Pittsburgh PA
To sleeve or not to sleeve? That is the question.

I am working on putting together a new engine for my 850.

I have sourced a high mileage R engine (supposedly ~215k)

Compression numbers look good as reported by the JY.
Cold comp- 148, 155, 152, 145, 150
Cold LD's as a percentage of leak down %11, 14, 11, 13, 14

I have ordered some rods for it, should I just add rods? Should I sleeve it?If so what sleeves? Should I just shim it? Do nothing? Hone the bores and do fresh rings?

I don't know that I see running bigger than a fancy 19t on it. I could also run the K24 on it but I am not I don't have a specific power goal per say but want it to be decently quick. I plan to eventually run E85 as well but that'll be down the road I suspect.
 
If it's an 81mm bore block, shim it, throw the rods in, and spend your money on a proper turbo with a turbine that flows.
 
R engines (2.5L) are 85mm bore I believe.
They are 83mm bore and known to crack cylinder liners, especially on engines pushed beyond factory levels. Rods and pistons are pretty good on the R, it's mainly just the cylinder wall thickness that's the concern on that engine.

Putting in Darton sleeves would be ideal but quite expensive (~$2-3k). If you aren't married to the R engine and are wanting to keep costs in check, an 81mm bore engine will be a better starting point.

If you're running a smaller turbo though, it may be fine (even stock R rods). Shims are basically free so might as well. The leakdown is great so unless you're doing an in-depth rebuild (sleeves, new rings, etc) I would leave the cylinder walls and rings alone.
 
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BNE Blockguard or shim the liners, doesn’t sound like sleeves are worth the cost / complications for your power goals
 
They are 83mm bore and known to crack cylinder liners, especially on engines pushed beyond factory levels. Rods and pistons are pretty good on the R, it's mainly just the cylinder wall thickness that's the concern on that engine.

Putting in Darton sleeves would be ideal but quite expensive (~$2-3k). If you aren't married to the R engine and are wanting to keep costs in check, an 81mm bore engine will be a better starting point.

If you're running a smaller turbo though, it may be fine (even stock R rods). Shims are basically free so might as well. The leakdown is great so unless you're doing an in-depth rebuild (sleeves, new rings, etc) I would leave the cylinder walls and rings alone.
There we go, R engine is already on order so probably sticking with that. I was looking for an 81mm bore engine but was finding them rather expensive (roughly 3x the cost, almost 2k to get one that didn't have >250k on it).

If I did do sleeves, are there thoughts on darton vs the LA sleeve ones? I was going to have the machine shop quote doing them. I am guessing that's the expensive part.

I was debating doing a home hone job and some rings but I am not sure if that is worth it
BNE Blockguard or shim the liners, doesn’t sound like sleeves are worth the cost / complications for your power goals
I am going to see if BNE still does block guards, I'd do that if he does. Seems like it might be the right balance.

Rods are already on order so unless there is a good reason not to I am going to plan to swap them.

Tried Bon Ami yet (post-turbo) for the smoking?
I am going to dump 3 different stop smoking things in there with some nicotine gum and see what happens after a few 100 miles. If I could get current engine to hold on until winter that would be awesome


I am also open to turbo options, should I be looking at bigger than a 19t or K24? I want to run the stock manifold and would really like to not change downpipes (angle flange 3")
 
I think deeworks would cost more than I am willing to spend in shipping vs I could drive a block to ben in MD but I will work to get shipping quoted. I am sort of expecting that I quickly could end up spend almost as much doing that as just doing sleeves?

And do a K26
From? Do you use that with the stock R exhaust housing I am guessing? I assume angle flange is the same between the 2?
 
There was somebody recently who had a sleeved block listed on FB. Also, some people might differ in opinion here, but a larger and slightly lazier turbo would actually help things a bit by keeping cylinder pressures down at lower rpms. Any of the stock frame turbos will make peak torque way earlier and create higher cylinder pressures.
 
There was somebody recently who had a sleeved block listed on FB. Also, some people might differ in opinion here, but a larger and slightly lazier turbo would actually help things a bit by keeping cylinder pressures down at lower rpms. Any of the stock frame turbos will make peak torque way earlier and create higher cylinder pressures.
That makes sense. Just found that engine listing but it sold it looks like.
 
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