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Wire Harnesses Construction

GTJordan said:
Where do you get the different dies for them? Amazon? Or was there one in the kit that covered the JPT pins?
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been a while but I'm sure it was just search fu. I just put "sg tool aid crimper dies" into google and they come up from Summit etc. The basic kit I linked can take care of a JPT though
 
GTJordan said:
Where do you get the different dies for them? Amazon? Or was there one in the kit that covered the JPT pins?
Click to expand...
For JPT and smaller/delicate pins, I prefer the generic iWiss or Toolaid open barrel crimping pliers. The big ratcheting toolaid crimpers can mangle stuff pretty quickly, I use them as stacking pliers and for hex crimps on larger cables.


 
Thanks guys. I'm so use to having every pin labeled with which die I need to use, and probably 50 different dies and crimpers to select from. Once again, just over thinking things.
 
For a small number of connections, the single crimp pliers may work better since you can do each crimp, wire and insulation, separately. The dies for the double butt crimps, two at once, are more fussy about the exact wire and insulation sizes.
 
GTJordan said:
Crimpers.

I'm looking for a nice crimper with interchangeable dies, or a kit to cover a wide assortment of connectors. To start- Junior POwer Timer connector pins. Does anyone have a recommendation?

I have a deutch connector tool already and spent the weekend crimping. I'd like to do all the engine side connections now.

I have a wide assortment of crimpers at work, but I want something for home use/harness building.

Also- I need/want to crimp some EV6(?) injector pins. What do they use? Molex?
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Reinstagg with CMC dies from Racespec
 
So I’m in the planning stages of making a version 2 of my ms3 harness.
Are there any guidelines for organization of wires? Like don’t run x signal near y power source.
 
1) Don't run anything near the high voltage spark plug / coil wires. Crossing at a right angle is OK if you really really need to.
2) If you're using the stock CPS, it's a VR-type sensor, and should use shielded cable. DIYautotune sells short sections of automotive temperature rated 2-wire shielded cable. Connect the 2 VR signals to the inner wires, and connect the outer shield wire to sensor ground on the MS side, and to the 3rd pin of the CPS sensor connector.
3) If you're using a Hall-type crank sensor, you can probably get away without shielded cable, but shielded is better. For Hall, you shield the CPS output wire, wire the shield to MS sensor ground but leave the shield wire unconnected at the sensor end (just cut it off cleanly).
4) The injector wire(s) can carry 5+ amps, so they're a bit noisy. Likewise for ignition wires if you're not using logic-level coils and not using an external powerstage. Keeping these away from the other wires is nicer, but doesn't seem to be a problem in many OEM harnesses.
5) The sensor ground wire can be daisy chained sensor-to-sensor. Likewise for the +5Vref wire.
6) I think running the main MS grounds to the intake manifold is fine, but some folks insist that running everything to the battery is better.
7) Check your WBO2 documentation - some have separate sensor and power grounds, some don't. If it doesn't say, assume that the grounds are high-power and don't connect them to the shared MS sensor ground.
8) Follow the one-page MS/Relay wiring diagram in the MS hardware guide for fuses and relays. If you add other relays in the wrong place, your engine may not shut off.
9) If you've removed everything but the MS box off of the switched +12v power from the ignition switch, you may need to add a diode to the alternator-to-cluster Alt light wire, or else your engine may not shut off. The Alt light in the cluster can supply ~50mA, which is enough to keep a relay energized with key off if nothing else is loading down the switched +12v.
10) The premade 8' harnesses are nice because the wires are all different colors, are individually labeled, and are automotive temperature rated.
11) I don't know if Dave Barton has non-shrink harness tubing. I've used Raychem NETM1000. I think culberro@ has links to harness/wiring companies, some of which are way over the top for an old volvo.

HPAcademy has a few videos on harness construction, such as: link
 
bobxyz said:
1) Don't run anything near the high voltage spark plug / coil wires. Crossing at a right angle is OK if you really really need to.
4) The injector wire(s) can carry 5+ amps, so they're a bit noisy. Likewise for ignition wires if you're not using logic-level coils and not using an external powerstage. Keeping these away from the other wires is nicer, but doesn't seem to be a problem in many OEM harnesses.
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These are the things I was after.
I've been watching the HPA videos, they've helped me substantially.
So should I run noisy sections together? Like keep fuel and ignition as one and the rest separate?
For my Particular instance I'm planning on running 4 logic coils. I was toying with the idea of using a 29 way bulkhead connector for the entire harness, but If it is better practice to keep things separate, I could have two Bulkhead connectors.
 
You're using logic coils, so I wouldn't worry about a little noise from the injectors (or WBO2 power).

If you look at one of the harness pictures on Dave Barton's site, you can see that everything is split off a main bundle. If it matches the original Volvo construction, the CPS sensor uses a shielded cable. A shielded cable is also used for the EZK-to-powerstage spark signal. I think Volvo did this because that signal is bundled with the high-power powerstage-to-coil signal over a few feet of wiring. A shielded cable is also used for the Narrowband O2 sensor (which is very noise sensitive). The rest of the wiring is unshielded.

If you're going to be pulling the engine frequently, a bulkhead connector is nice. The downside is that connectors of any sort are the most unreliable parts of any harness. Connectors also have a limited number of insertion cycles before the contacts start to degrade. If you want best reliability, minimize the number of connectors, don't plug&unplug them any more than necessary and, the most important, learn to make good crimps.

For good crimps, practice with extra terminals and scrap wire until you're good and consistent. You should be able to step on the wire and pull hard on the pin with a set of pliers and not have the pin pull off. If you can't make good crimps consistently, soldering might be better [ugh].
 
I’ve started to buy UL 1007 wire from Consolidated Wire (available on McMaster Carr, cheap/same cost as txl, fully tinned, and available in a plethora of colors and stripes).

Same OD as TXL, higher wire strand count, more colors that are commonly available.

1007 - Consolidated Electronic Wire & Cable

Available in Tin Copper or Topcoat PVC (Polyvinylchloride) Insulation, 1007 80°C & 1569 105°C, 300V UL, CSA VW-1 AWM I A/B FT-1 Click here for additional product information
www.conwire.com www.conwire.com

Wire, 300VAC, 20 Gauge, Green/Yellow Outer Insulation, 200 Feet Long:
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com


Also, yourspec wiring for harness builds is a godsend. You can get cut, cut and stripped, laser engraved along the length of the wire, contacts added… and it’s very reasonable. Like full car harness with colors, labels, and strip lengths for $200. Just crimp and bundle, it’s an amazing resource and very quick.

 
GTJordan said:
Loom for someone that isn't ready for DR25 yet?
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All I could find easily was Raychem NETM 1000 (or 2000 for slightly higher temps) - it looks like flat black heat shrink, but it doesn't shrink. I'm sure there are others, and I think Dave Barton has tubing that's close to the original shiny black Volvo harnesses. I don't like the amateurish look of corrugated loom, but that's another option and adding wires to the split loom version is much easier.
 
bobxyz said:
All I could find easily was Raychem NETM 1000 (or 2000 for slightly higher temps) - it looks like flat black heat shrink, but it doesn't shrink. I'm sure there are others, and I think Dave Barton has tubing that's close to the original shiny black Volvo harnesses. I don't like the amateurish look of corrugated loom, but that's another option and adding wires to the split loom version is much easier.
Click to expand...

heck ya. I was wondering where to find the factory looking stuff for the headlamps etc. I always forget that he sells wiring harness components.
 
GTJordan said:
Loom for someone that isn't ready for DR25 yet?
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I’ve used a little bit of braided loom from Tech Flex and think it’s good to work with and I like the way it looks.

General Purpose | Techflex.com

Techflex offers the most versatile sleeving on the planet. General purpose sleeving is perfect for day-to-day office, automotive, AV, and in-home applications.
www.techflex.com www.techflex.com

I bought it locally a while back so I don’t remember what particular style I used offhand, but can go check if it’s helpful.
 
GTJordan said:
Loom for someone that isn't ready for DR25 yet?
Click to expand...
Do you want it “water tight”?
Engine bay or interior?

Techflex braided split loom is great. Lots of options. The higher end corrugated tubing also works well, much better than the cheap stuff you buy at the local stores.

The NETM 1000 looks like a good choice as well, definitely ordering that for one of my current projects to try it out.

I like to finish ends of split looming with dual wall heat shrink. You can also do this on branches as well.
Alternatively self-fusing silicone tape can be used, also looks good and works better on complex branch angles.

I’ve started using more Kable Kontrol heat shrink… I really like it. This 4:1 clear dual wall is CRYSTAL clear when shrunk, and works great for labels on the harness.

Kable Kontrol® 4:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing - Dual Wall

4:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing (Dual Wall) is made to shrink to a quarter of its original size when heated. The internal adhesive will insulate Cables.
www.cabletiesandmore.com www.cabletiesandmore.com
 
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