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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

volvosruinedmylife said:
So does the frontier transmission have the same adapter plate after you cut off the bellhousing?
Click to expand...
Well, the 'preview' on your link above has some text saying it works with the CD001-A transmissions, which made me think so. But if you click through to the website, that wording doesn't appear. Maybe that preview is misleading? Their CD009 adapter is a separate product.

So... misleading preview on the link aside, they're probably not quite the same.
 

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I was driving the Volvo around recently (shifter still sucks...) and noticed a bad habit of mine. I tend to not look at the tach, just listen to the RPM by tuned earchometer.

But... I've driven 4 cylinders pretty much forever. And I keep overestimating the RPM the LS motor is running at because it has twice as many cylinders. And I'm often just sort of lugging it around at 2000 rpm or so. Which makes it feel sluggish when you stomp on the gas. Drive it at 3000+ rpm (which sounds revved up pretty high to my mis-tuned ears), and yeah, it jumps damn hard when you step on the gas. Gigitty.

So just need to retune the ears and keep it revved up some more.
 
Ordered some parts to try and fix the PITA quality of lift issues (all revolving around shifting gears).
1) A 5/8" clutch master cylinder ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G33KHE?th=1 ). It currently has a Volvo 264 hydraulic clutch master, which has a 3/4" bore. And the pedal is very stiff, and the engagement point is very short. Which is doable, but just not all that great. Hopefully going down a size in the MC bore will fix both issues. Mounting bolt holes on the Wilwood are the same, might need to fuss about with the push rod some, and it's overall shorter, so it should fit pretty much straight in.
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2) An Autosports Engineering CD009 forward mount shifter ( https://autosportsengineering.com/p...neering-cd009-shifter-relocation-front-mount/ ). They use a steel ball for the shifter pivot, unlike the Delrin ball my current shifter has, which started off feeling loose and imprecise, and only got worse with a little use. For a forward mount shifter, you have to take the case apart and cut the shifter rod, but I looked at a video Autosports has on how to do it, and it's the exact same way the CBF Performance shifter is - reusing some existing roll pin holes in the shifter shaft. So the shaft gets cut in the same spot. So I should be able to pull the trans, take the case apart, and swap the old kit for the new and (HOPEFULLY) improved kit.
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I'm not expecting this to make using the 6-spd in the Volvo as immensely satisfying as ythe 6-spd in the Miata, but making it less terrible would be a huge improvement.
 
Ditched the Nissan transmissions. Went t56 in my car. Slight trimming at the trans tunnel opening 0 bashing and the clutch feels amazing. The gto and ctsv t56 s can be had for cheap. The gto ones have upgraded synchros too. I hope you can make your current setup work well
 
Yeah, I sort of wish I'd gone that direction initially. Now I'm fighting against the sunk cost fallacy, trying to make this cheap CD009 (JK40C) trans work.
 
Got the shifter in the mail today.

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It feels really nice and precise. High hopes on it making the shifting work properly for once.

Now I just need to pull the trans.
 
I've been both busy with other things, and unmotivated to work on this thing. Partially because I was worried it would involve removing the transmission, and that would involve pulling the motor.

Anyhooo, got a little motivated to work on it, in the week before we leave to road trip out west for 18 days (lol), and started in on this.
WueNX08.jpeg


Up in the air a bit, crawled under, looked at the trans and... yeah, pretty unlikely that I'd be able to get it out with the motor in the car. Really hard to get at the bolts, and the trans wouldn't have enough room to come back far enough to clear the bellhousing. Probably, I mean, if push came to shove, I'd probably give it a try.

But before signing up for that much effort, I thought I'd pull the CBF Performance shifter off and see if there's a chance the new Autosports Engineering shifter would work with the CBF shifter socket installed on the shifter rod. The main issue is that the CBF shifter plate has a plastic ball that slides on pins on the side of the shifter housing, and the plastic ball sits on a pin in the shifter lever. Both of those interfaces have a little slack and let the shifter rod rotate. This wouldn't be so bad but the shifter has an offset on it to reach back a few inches to position it where it needs to be, and that translates some rotational slop into side to side slop at the shift knob. 6 speeds in a tight pattern, with slop? It's not good. It's frustrating. It's damned annoying. On top of that, the shifter indents are not as positive as they should be, it tends to pop out of some of the gears from the faintest of pressures (like the rubber Volvo shifter boot).

Anyhow, took the trans crossmember off, lowered the trans down some (it didn't come far because those engine mounts are STIFF) and then barely had enough room to get the shifter plate off from inside the car.
B9cX9D8.jpeg


CBF is black, Autosports is silver. You can see the 3D printed(?) plastic ball in the CBF. It started off with some slop, it got worse. The Autosports has a metal ball, and the shifter lever is tigged to it. Waaaay less rotational slop, and not likely to wear looser in a short amount of time.

Anyhow, great news, the shifter levers are in the same spot, have the same size bushings, etc. Damn, this might work!

Worked on the shifter detent too, that was easy to get to with the shifter plate off. Originally the CD009 had slots in the steel shifter rod that a spring loaded ball interacted with. That shaft was cut and an aluminum shifter socket was put in its place (how it has to work to put the shifter lever on top of the case where an inspection plate was), and the stock spring loaded detent mechanism was mounted on a different bracket to place it farther to the side, where it now interacts with notches on the side of the new shifter socket. But it looked like it was too far over, not really pushing hard enough into the notches. So I carefully ground about 1/16th of an inch off the back of the bracket so the spring loaded gizmo could screw in a bit further.

And bolted the Autosport shifter plate on top and VOILA, it all feels much tighter and way more precise. The offset lever wasn't quite long enough on this shifter, so I just bent the shift rod back a little bit.
cpG7OjT.jpeg


Still need to install and adjust the reverse lockout plate that makes sure you find 6th and not reverse. But it feels GREAT. Not quite as good as the Miata's 6-spd, but it should be good enough to not be an irritation when driving it.

Up next - the 5/8" bore clutch master.
 
And got the Wilwood 5/8 bore master cylinder in. The bolt pattern was close enough to bolt right on in. I shortened the Volvo pushrod by about 1/2". And I had to use the remote reservoir option because of the overhanging sheetmetal lip on the 240 firewall.

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Bled it, adjusted the pedal throw a little. The pedal feel is a wee bit wonky, light up top, stiffer down low, but the clutch release point is about where I'd want it, and the pedal effort is nicely reduced. I went for a bike ride instead of taking it off the jack stands and taking it for a drive, but so far - I think big improvements have been made to the clutch and shifter issues that were making this a chore to drive.
 
Also, the glovebox stopped opening. The knob would turn normally, still locked and unlocked normally, just no unlatching. I poked at it a bit from the outside and couldn't get it to release, and was about to just rip it open and fix whatever broke later, when I thought I'd try getting to the latch from the underside of the dash. Took off the carpet in the passenger footwell, reached around a zillion wires (it's Megasquirted, IYKYK), and voila, was able to not only feel the latch but easily pop it open.

This great success was immediately tempered by me awkwardly getting up from laying on my back in the passenger footwell and bumping the map pocket. Which was original, complete, and only slightly cracked. Until I busted the hell out of it, lol.

Anyhow, took the glove box latch off. It's a chunky little piece of metal, seems overbuilt for the task for sure. The plastic latch part slid right on out and I could see where a tiny thin nub of metal on the end of the key barrel had broken off. The nub reached out and engaged with the spring loaded latch. Certainly no way to fix that.

So after observing that my son's 93 940 had the same latch, off to the PnP yard. 240's almost never show up these days, rare as can be and utterly demolished and trashed when they do. But there are some 7/9 series cars still. There were 2 redblock car sin the yard. an 87(ish?) 760 GLE with the PRV6 and an IRS rear end. It had some sort of fancier interior with a different glovebox style, not the right latch. Then a 93 base base base 940 sedan in beige on beige blandness, it had the latch I needed.

Then I discovered that Voluparts sells repro map pockets. So you don't have to pay a lot for a fragile intact original pocket that will break when you try to install it. Or look at it. So I got a couple of those (driver side has a crack, might as well bougie up the place). Those came in yesterday and I installed them. No pics so it didn't happen. But they're nice looking repros. I spent a tiny bit with a razor blade cleaning up some casting flash. They feel slightly heavier than the originals, maybe they're slightly stronger. And certainly not 30+ years of brittleness. Color (I have the tan interior) was a good match as well.
 
Shame Volvo never made a carpeted map pocket like the 760/960 version - those hold up much better than the plain plastic version, as long as you don't break the mount points of course. The little snippet of visible seat in your shifter boot pic looks like they are MINT(!!!)
 
I think the seats had been redone when I bought it in 2005. They looked brand new at that time, at a bit over 100K miles.
 
I was hooning it around last week, took it on my 120 mile 'Miata loop', lots of twisty roads through SE St Charles county, SW St Louis county. And the front was a bit loose until the tires scrubbed in a bit. Ad then later on I was wondering how old those tires were (Toyo T1-R 225/45/17). And *ahem* I saw that I bought them in...






2008??? !!!


Yeah, 16 year old tires. To their credit they're still doing pretty good. But obviously, time for some new tires.

Since I've absolutely loved the Falken RT660's on the Miata, I got a set of them for the wagon. Tire Rack shipped them in 2 shipments. One arrived at the installer on Friday. The other.. still 'on it's way'. COME ON UPS, you can do this.
 
Got the RT660's in the Volvo... In the cargo area, that is. The tire shop near me that I had the tires shipped to from Tire Rack is short staffed and said they could maybe get to it 'next week'. Lol, not going to work, so I picked them up and I'm going by a place after work today to have them installed.

Got them in the same size as the last T1R's, 225/45/17. They're 200TW 'just short of cheating' autocross tires. I.e. probably stickier than 200TW, but not in an obvious way.
 
Also been doing a bit of street tuning on the motor. It's been pretty good in the cruise areas, and at full boost (all 6 - 7 psi, lol). But in between, it's been a bit iffy.

I updated the ignition table (based on something pretty similar, 5.3 stock bottom end, from Denmah/Sloppy Mechanics) and that seemed to help some with the lazy-off-idle feel. And some street tuning in the lower RPM mid-throttle areas is helping.

But Tuner Studio autotune doesn't seem to be working well for me at the higher RPM's. I can see it going too rich (like 10:1 on the AFR meter) and bogging a bit, but autotune seems to keep trying to richen those cells some more. I could see if getting fooled by a rich miss showing lean, but the gauge shows this as 10:1, maybe a touch lower, and autotune just says 'send more fuel'.

Obviously, need to do some hand tuning on it, just not sure why autotune has issues in that upper right corner of the map.
 
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