That was my thinking too. Finger is hovering over the 'buy' button. Refurbed and reupholstered, from Thailand, great feedback on the seller.
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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)
- Thread starter JohnMc
- Start date
Stiggy Pop
In the cool kids club
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2011
- Location
- Granville, MA
more bolster = better.
mesh headrest = best.
Nice choice!
mesh headrest = best.
Nice choice!
mopar318
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2013
- Location
- Fort Wayne
Stock 240 headrest also fit in those if you like that look.
mopar318
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2013
- Location
- Fort Wayne
I think I have some pictures on my build thread of my recaros. I used the 940 headrest pads with the 240 headrest.
I cleaned all the oil that had been seeping out from under the intake, got everything bone dry, and drove it around 300 miles yesterday. And it was bone dry afterwards as well. I think whatever oil breather burp happened at MM while I was thrashing it hard just got oil in that area which was just slowly working its way back out. Not what appeared to be a new oil leak under the intake somewhere.
I have two breathers routed directly into the foam air filter on the turbo - the passenger side valve cover and the turbo drain sump. The turbo sits on the wrong side of the collector and the wastegates and it seemed... difficult to get a proper gravity drain back into the motor. So I put a 1L drain underneath the turbo , drain line going through a hole in the inner fender, it's mounted in the area in front of the passenger tire. And then an oil scavenger pump that drains that tank and pumps it back up to the passenger side valve cover (replacement oil cap with a fitting on it). I'm just triggering the pump along with the fuel pump from MS. The tank has two larger fittings, one for the drain, one for the breather (to make sure no pressure builds up in there) freely venting up to the air filter, and the smaller line to the scavenge pump.
I guess one of the two burped out a cup or two of oil at some point at MM. On Thursday, when I drove Cherohala (fairly gently), Tail of the Dragon (pretty damn hard) and I was also blasting along Charlie's Creek (near the Lodge) pretty hard in spots. Hard to say which breather did it, at this point. Got there, opened the hood, and there was oil splattered all around that area.
I guess I could temporarily route the breathers to separate catch bottles and thrash it around and see if I could get it to burp again, see which one it's coming from. And I probably need to add a catch can and route both breathers to it, then from there to the air filter.
I have two breathers routed directly into the foam air filter on the turbo - the passenger side valve cover and the turbo drain sump. The turbo sits on the wrong side of the collector and the wastegates and it seemed... difficult to get a proper gravity drain back into the motor. So I put a 1L drain underneath the turbo , drain line going through a hole in the inner fender, it's mounted in the area in front of the passenger tire. And then an oil scavenger pump that drains that tank and pumps it back up to the passenger side valve cover (replacement oil cap with a fitting on it). I'm just triggering the pump along with the fuel pump from MS. The tank has two larger fittings, one for the drain, one for the breather (to make sure no pressure builds up in there) freely venting up to the air filter, and the smaller line to the scavenge pump.
I guess one of the two burped out a cup or two of oil at some point at MM. On Thursday, when I drove Cherohala (fairly gently), Tail of the Dragon (pretty damn hard) and I was also blasting along Charlie's Creek (near the Lodge) pretty hard in spots. Hard to say which breather did it, at this point. Got there, opened the hood, and there was oil splattered all around that area.
I guess I could temporarily route the breathers to separate catch bottles and thrash it around and see if I could get it to burp again, see which one it's coming from. And I probably need to add a catch can and route both breathers to it, then from there to the air filter.
Also ordered one of those Scandix e-code headlight kits. The driver side headlight has a broken adjuster socket, has for years. I jsut sortof occasionally push it back into position so it's not pointing down so much. And then last Friday while I was washing it I noticed the passenger side lens was completely detached, only sort of being held on by the trim?
Now to make sure the painted body color Classic turn signal and headlight trim fits onto the e-code stuff in place of the chrome.
Now to make sure the painted body color Classic turn signal and headlight trim fits onto the e-code stuff in place of the chrome.
Annnnd the e-codes don't fit.
First sign of trouble - the e-code housing is much bulkier back behind the radiator support:
And I have some non-OEM fitment issues to contend with:
The head light was maybe 2 1/2 inches away from where it needed to be before it ran into the intercooler pipe. I didn't even try on the passenger side, clearance is even tighter there, and harder to do anything about (turbo with a tiny air filter):
So, no e-codes for me. I'll have to get some US style replacements.
First sign of trouble - the e-code housing is much bulkier back behind the radiator support:
And I have some non-OEM fitment issues to contend with:
The head light was maybe 2 1/2 inches away from where it needed to be before it ran into the intercooler pipe. I didn't even try on the passenger side, clearance is even tighter there, and harder to do anything about (turbo with a tiny air filter):
So, no e-codes for me. I'll have to get some US style replacements.
So I was talking to a friend of mine on another board the other day....
About camshafts. I've always felt the 5.3 in mine feels a bit lazy off boost, a bit lazy off idle, a bit lazy at low rpms. Then finally at a bit above 3100-3200-ish rpms, it all lights off and goes. But after having the 16V's small motor/lots of boost on/off power delivery, I was hoping for something a bit smoother.
And when I was early on in the process of this build, I, probably somewhat overwhelmed with lots of other details, and maybe not thinking it would matter all that much, bought an LSA cam for it: https://parts.gmparts.com/product/gm-genuine-parts-lsa-stock-camshaft-12623064
Mildly ironic that the measurement on the LSA cam that I feel might be causing the motor to feel lazy is in fact, the LSA. Narrower LSA measurements tend to make more low end torque, wider makes more high end HP. And (FWIW it's tricky to google the LSA of an LSA cam) on the cam I got is a whopping 122.5 degrees.
That would certainly explain the lazy feel I tend to notice. That's a really wide LSA. I guess with the supercharger on the LSA engine they didn't need the cam to make much low end HP, since it was getting air crammed into it. And maybe wanted to minimize overlap for emissions, in case the blower was pushing some fuel out the exhaust on the intake stroke?
Either way, apparently not what I want at all on a low boost turbo manual trans setup.
Shoot first, aim later, I guess. Not like there's a whole Sloppy Mechanics library to look at. Lol. I wonder if I can swap cams with the engine in the car. If not, I'm planning on pulling the drivetrain out at some point to swap the flywheel. I've decided the 28 lb stock Camaro flywheel has to go.
About camshafts. I've always felt the 5.3 in mine feels a bit lazy off boost, a bit lazy off idle, a bit lazy at low rpms. Then finally at a bit above 3100-3200-ish rpms, it all lights off and goes. But after having the 16V's small motor/lots of boost on/off power delivery, I was hoping for something a bit smoother.
And when I was early on in the process of this build, I, probably somewhat overwhelmed with lots of other details, and maybe not thinking it would matter all that much, bought an LSA cam for it: https://parts.gmparts.com/product/gm-genuine-parts-lsa-stock-camshaft-12623064
Mildly ironic that the measurement on the LSA cam that I feel might be causing the motor to feel lazy is in fact, the LSA. Narrower LSA measurements tend to make more low end torque, wider makes more high end HP. And (FWIW it's tricky to google the LSA of an LSA cam) on the cam I got is a whopping 122.5 degrees.
That would certainly explain the lazy feel I tend to notice. That's a really wide LSA. I guess with the supercharger on the LSA engine they didn't need the cam to make much low end HP, since it was getting air crammed into it. And maybe wanted to minimize overlap for emissions, in case the blower was pushing some fuel out the exhaust on the intake stroke?
Either way, apparently not what I want at all on a low boost turbo manual trans setup.
Shoot first, aim later, I guess. Not like there's a whole Sloppy Mechanics library to look at. Lol. I wonder if I can swap cams with the engine in the car. If not, I'm planning on pulling the drivetrain out at some point to swap the flywheel. I've decided the 28 lb stock Camaro flywheel has to go.
mopar318
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2013
- Location
- Fort Wayne
I love my TSP Madd Maxx. Chops like a MF'er, has great low end torque using a manual trans and a super wide powerband with boost.
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Location
- Monterey/Falun
i ended up buying a richard holdener low buck truck cam, it came with truck norris engraved on it and was like 179 shipped
the lsa cam makes okay peak power but it looses a ton of power everywhere else. i had one in my old 4.8 turbo fairmont and i absolutely hated it
the lsa cam makes okay peak power but it looses a ton of power everywhere else. i had one in my old 4.8 turbo fairmont and i absolutely hated it
mopar318
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2013
- Location
- Fort Wayne
Be sure to upgrade the springs and pushrods. You can keep the stock rockers though.
Here's my Madd Maxx for reference