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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

Stock pushrods wil work but if you are spinning it higher and you have a cam+heavier springs it's a good idea to throw in a set of chromoly pushrods. They are less than $100, and will maybe save you in the event of a misshift as well.
 
mopar318 said:
Stock pushrods wil work but if you are spinning it higher and you have a cam+heavier springs it's a good idea to throw in a set of chromoly pushrods. They are less than $100, and will maybe save you in the event of a misshift as well.
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Probably, lol. I’m cheap and haven’t had an issue yet even with double springs
 
cosbySweater said:
Nothing wrong with stock pushrods, you have one of those t76 turbos that usually come in those type of kits?
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Yeah, it originally had a journal bearing 'CXRacing T76', it lasted around 3500 miles and then got slow to spool, and had a little shaft wiggle. Still feeling cheap and lazy and not wanting to rework anything, I 'upgraded' to the same turbo with a dual ball bearing center: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183767519167

This Listing Is For One Brand New T76 Dual Ball Bearing Turbo, with Q-Trim 0.96 A/R Turbine Housing.​

  • Dual Ball Bearing T76 0.96 A/R Q Trim Turbo Charger
  • Both Compressor and Wheels Are Ball Bearings
  • 76mm Big Compressor Wheel
  • 0.96 A/R Q Trim Turbine
  • 3" V-band Outlet
  • 4" Inlet & 2.5" Outlet
  • T4 Flange to Manifold
  • Aluminum Compressor Housing, Billet Aluminum CNC Machined Back Plate
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For a while, I've been blaming it for the lazy low end power, not thinking about the cam. And planning on replacing it with something dual scroll and better so it would spool sooner. But now I've come to the realization that my cam is probably the big issue, I'll probably wait to see what a cam change does before swapping it out.
 
Oh man. Yea thats the old 7665, the 7665 and zr1 cam is like sloppy mechanics 2011. Put a 7875 on it with a 1.15 or 1.25 turbine and either a dedicated turbo cam or a .550ish lift “truck” cam. I had that same turbo and cam in my fairmont and it was terrible. I’m sure the stick shift does help it quite a bit though.

Are you recirculating the wastegate?
 
cosbySweater said:
Are you recirculating the wastegate?
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Nope, dual wastegates with dump tubes.

When it's not on boost control it's going through a 3" single exhaust with 2 mufflers to keep it somewhat stealth/sleeper.

This works pretty well with the low boost I'm currently running, since the WG's open up pretty quickly once it starts making any decent amount of HP, might be an issue if I ever start cranking up the boost and it tries to breathe more HP down that 3" exhaust.
 
That’s good, I know talking to a friend of mine that does a lot of tuning on turbo Ls stuff the recirculated wastegates on a 3 inch exhaust are a no no from what he tells me.
 
I kind of like the quiet/loud split personality the dump tubes give it. Nice and quiet idling and driving around normally, get on it and it gets a LOT louder. Lol.
 
cosbySweater said:
That’s good, I know talking to a friend of mine that does a lot of tuning on turbo Ls stuff the recirculated wastegates on a 3 inch exhaust are a no no from what he tells me.
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It would be hard to control boost on a recirculated wastegate on a 3" exhaust, but with dumps they seem to be fine up to about 1000hp. From the test videos you gain about 50hp going to a 3.5" or 4" exhaust. I'm going to find a way to do a 3.5" ovaled downpipe this winter. the 3" round barely fits, but I should be able to get a 3.5" ovaled into a 4" ovaled under the car.
 
I do have a 3.5 oval along the side of the motor, where it needed to squeeze between the subframe and the starter area. 3" round from the turbo along side the motor, into the 3,5" bend down and around to the trans area, then into the 3" round system (which is still the same Stefansson Automotive 3" system I put on for the 8V like 15 years ago).
 
Yesterday evening. Old seats out:
JTmIdn8.jpeg


The tan carpet is more gray than tan these days:
BzAQ2GB.jpeg


New seats.
Ncan7hF.jpeg


I thinik I might need to use some spacers to lift them up an inch or so. They're not bad as is, but I think I lost an bit more than an inch in the swap.
 
All good. They shipped almost immediately via DHL, what they show on their site is apparently all ready to go, not something they start working on when you buy it. 6 days later they arrived. Seats look great, feel great. All new foam, all new cloth, I guess it's an old frame inside.

It's not cheap, but it's half the price of new LS Recaros, and new Recaros are all in some shade or another of black, no tan available.

I did google around before buying and saw other people had good luck buying from them.

srrxseat.com

Recaro Lx/Ls Series Archives - SRRXSEAT

srrxseat.com srrxseat.com

Seatbacks: LS - more bolsters, LX slightly less bolsters, more comfortable
Seat bottoms: B - no thigh support adjustment, C - adjustable front thigh support section

I got a set of LSB seats. FWIW their current inventory is almost all black as well.
 
PS: The driver side running light was out. Went to replace it, it was fine. Turns out the spare tire has been being shoved back into it, not enough to break anything, but enough to nudge it out of position. Lol, too much skinny pedal?

I snagged a late model FWD spare years ago, 17" skinny thing, it will fit around the RX7 brake setup in front, the original minispare wouldn't.
 
Oh, and I forgot, replaced the center console as well. I know this will be a SHOCK to many people, but the interior plastics on a Volvo 240 are, in their at least 3 decades old state, VERY FRAGILE. Shocking, I know. Mine had multiple cracks on it, and broke in multiple more places when removing it. I got a replacement from Voluparts and put it in while the seats were out.

And despite being SUPER careful with that little cubby insert, it broke when I put it back in the new console. Lol, and a new pocket costs almost as much as the console itself did. *sigh*
 
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