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Yet another 16v in a 240, Green Volvo Edition

Rushin

Active member
Joined
Jan 20, 2022
I decided to make this build thread to track the progress on my other project- 16v swapping my other green 1992 240. This car has been with me for a very long time. It kind of was the first step into actually knowing what I was doing and progressing past the point where doing heads on a 350 chebby is a huge task. The body and frame are not in great shape but it has enough sentimental value for me to continue working on it. Bodywork is slow going but it only gets driven in the summer so there's no real rush. I've done a LOT to this thing and still have a huge ways to go. All pictures will be taken with a 240p Kodak Charmera as usual. Don't get too comfy with the high-res intro images.

It's a car I bought for $600 and is probably worth about $1000, $700 if I keep the wheels. It's still my baby and I'll probably have to be buried in it. (They'll find my dessicated corpse fused to the seat in the early Autumn of 2055)

I will get into some of the background of the car (probably too much background, it doesn't matter at all for this)

It started out as a standard neglected 240 wagon with some scorpius wheels coated in brake dust, bald tires, a seized caliper in the rear, and blown out bushings. The engine ran like absolute shit and it got limped home an hour back from Elkhart.

After getting more familiar with the car, I started on some stage 0 stuff. I got it running beautifully, almost everything was resealed, and everything mostly worked. Interior wasn't great but it was serviceable.

I then had a hood spring break while driving, which put a hole in the green hood, so I had to replace it with a white one. I actually really like the color with the forest green a lot. When I eventually get a fibreglass hood, I think I'll stick with the white.

About six years back, I fell asleep at the wheel after a 40 hour bender and had a very, very low speed bump which did not damage a very nice woman's car, but crushed my fender and broke my marker light. I replaced this with a silver fender off of my old lifted car and carried on.

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The fender will not stay silver once this thing actually gets painted lmao

About 5 years ago my water pump bolts sheared because I had probably overtightened the tensioner for the belt waaaay too much. It overheated and warped the head but I didn't realize it. I was losing coolant but the car ran beautifully and didn't overheat. Coolant was getting into the pan, but not mixing with the oil, and I was leaking enough oil to where it evened out on the dipstick.

Eventually I wanted to get to the bottom of things but I also had !!!BIG PLANS!!!! like every enthusiast does when they don't realize how much work !!!BIG PLANS!!! are. I park it in a friend's garage, the engine gets pulled, drain plug comes out, two quarts of coolant come rushing out, followed by the goopiest tar oil you've ever seen. At this point I figure it doesn't make sense to put this one back in, so I break it down for spare parts.

The car sits for 3 years while I get stuff together for a new build. I have it in my head that I'm going to somehow do standalone injection, a manual trans swap, and supercharger build with forged bottom end all at once. I think I have an embarrassing post on it farther back. I get a lot of the parts for the bottom end together, and then I deploy.

Once I get back, I realize I'm letting perfect be the enemy of mediocre, and decide that a car that sits while mice nibble at it, and while I assemble an engine at the rate of one part a year just wont cut it. I source an M46 trans and a mystery mileage engine and throw it in. Engine gets completely resealed and cleaned, and I go with a hydraulic clutch.

Now it gets a whole new black interior in great shape from a donor car, an ABS delete, kilmat in the entire interior, and the remainder of the suspension work I neglected finished up. Here's the build as it sits:

-G80 locker (bad choice)

-M46 with flat flywheel and hydraulic clutch

-IPD strut brace

-GT Strut braces

-STS Machining Chassis brace

-Poly bushings front and rear (I know, I know, you don't have to tell me)

-IPD Sway bars

-IPD Lowering springs

-Bilstein shocks and struts

-BNE Brembo brake kit

-BMW E30 seats

-255w 300TW tires on 17" pegasus wheels, powdercoated white

-IPD Stainless Sport Exhaust

-Stainless downpipe

Plus LOTS of small repairs, part replacements, scavenging, etc. to make this car as complete as possible

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It cleans up okay. You can see the rust on the rear wheel wells hasn't been tended to quite yet. It's been cleaned up and had paint slopped on it so it doesn't look to shit, but the rockers and those bits still need attention.

It's an autocross machine now, end goal for the build is to have a comfortable, moderately powerful (by 240 standards) sport tourer. It handles well in autocross, but the auto gearing coupled with 80hp makes it piss slow. The tires could probably be 200TW to get everything out of the suspension work but they're fine for now.

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Most recent upgrade is going to a noco lithium battery using STS's kit. My hood latch cable had been broken off by the previous hooligan so it was pretty short, and was stretched around the corner of the battery. So, during very hard turns, like you seen in auto cross, my hood would pop up:


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Not amazing, as you can imagine. This gave me an excuse to get a fancy battery, with the excuse of not getting thrown out at my next meet, and saving about 40lbs in weight. Huge space savings too, of course.


The build continues, originally I had planned for an 8v supercharged build but realized my foolishness and finally caved and went with a 16v head from my friend. It's been redone by Yoshifab with his valves, valve springs, and whatever head work he used to do. It came with ARP head studs, so that saved me a bit of cash. Beginning of the build in the next post. Hooray!
 
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Now I have the engine to contend with. This also has a checkered past, owing to my inability to focus and my lack of knowledge at the start, and the things I learn along the way. My current plan is to get an NA 16v running in my car with a T5 behind it, then move to standalone injection, then to finally supercharge it. This way I can have a car that isn't down for 10 years, so I can still improve things but get enjoyment out of driving it.

Here are the current parts in my possession for this build:

-High strength oil pump (it literally just has a sleeve over the keyed drive)

-Zelig's garage oil pump pipe (to clear the ARP main studs)

-ARP main studs

-Traum Pistons

-H-Beam Connecting rods

-16v Head w/Yoshifab Valve springs and valves

-Yoshifab camshafts (en route, hopefully)

-ARP Head studs

-T5 crossmember

-8.8 Rear end (not corrected or welded up for volvo use yet)

-L4 T5 WC trans

-Intake adapted for 16v 240 use

(years ago)
I start with a 1993 B230FT squirter (💦) block. I take it to a machine shop and get it hot tanked, decked, bored into round, and checked for cracks. It all looks great. They machine my crank too.

I get the block powdercoated red and I'm ready to start putting it together. Parts all go in and get torqued down, and I then realize two things:

-The aux shaft doesn't spin

-I never got the mains align honed

I get really busy with life and kind of lose motivation knowing that it all has to come apart again and the machine shop is going to charge me an arm and a leg. It sits for about a year or so while I lose my job and look for work.

After finding a new job, I take it back to the machine shop. In my ignorance, I had no idea what they need on or off the engine for an align hone. I want them to hone the aux shaft bearings too so the shaft spins freely as well. I get it there and they tell me that of course, it needs to be a bare block. I was doing this during a long lunch break, the shop was an hour away from home, so I had to buy tools at an autozone and break it down in their parking lot. In my flurry of work, I for some reason think the oil squirters might need to come out too, and drop one into one of the engine passages too deep to pull out with my hands, but accessible by a magnet.

I take the block in anyways, tell them about the squirter bolt, and wait. 3 weeks go by and I get my engine back. It's been align honed and supposedly they got the aux shaft to fit and spin properly. They absolutely fucked up the powdercoat so that's $500 down the drain for no reason. My head gasket dowels are missing, and so is my squirter bolt, no mention of either from them. Awesome.

I get the block cerakoted blue this time from a closer guy. It looks pretty nice.

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I start getting everything back in. When I took things apart in the parking lot, I broke a few piston rings, and was worried about contamination with the bearings so I replaced everything.

I totally forgot that the main bearings had to be undersized since there was a lot of meat taken off the crankshaft. Stupid!! I order the right size bearings and everything is *just barely* within tolerance.

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Pistons all go in without issue, using the really nice Summit Racing tool. It made these mostly a breeze. One stupid oil wiper did slip out and shatter on install, but I had some stock rings I could borrow from.

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Now I have to replace the engine dowels they stole. About $50 after shipping for these two little things. What a joke, but at least I could still find them.

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I put the aux shaft in, only to realize that no, they fucking did not get the aux shaft to fit like I had asked, and it wont even spin without me giving it way more force than I'd be comfortable with. I have to pull it out and scotchbrite each bearing. Very irritating. This task is preventing me from going too much farther for the moment since the pan can't go on until that happens.

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I have the head sent off to be checked and skimmed, there's some corrosion on the bottom I'm a bit worried about but it should clean up okay.

I get the head studs in for now, ready for the head.

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While I wait, I also get the rear main housing on there too since it doesn't interfere with anything. No seal yet, I have to order an OEM one if I can find it. I put a very thin coating of RTV on either side of the gasket, just enough to hold it, and bolt it down.

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That's it for now! Tomorrow I'll pick up the head and pull the aux shaft out again, hopefully. With any luck I can get the aux shaft to spin freely and I can start making some real progress.
 
If I see one more masking tape blue painted redblock on this website I'm forcing a coup, asserting myself a mod , and ban hammering till my elbows break.
I just told them "do it in whatever color you want, I don't give a shit" and they picked the IPD blue for me. I'll find the guy so you can hunt him down. Oil pan is red so I guess it's an Optimus prime color scheme now. What color should I powdercoat my coolant pipe to really upset you?
 
Short update, I was really surprised but the machine shop had a turnaround of like 4 hours on my head. I picked it up today and it looks great. They took about 8 thou off to get rid of some of the pitting from corrosion and cleaned it up for me.

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I get the head gasket on after using some big beautiful brake clean to make sure it's debris free. This is the farthest I've gotten with this engine. I'm really hoping I don't miss something/do something stupid and have to take it all apart again.

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The head's on!! It's torqued down!! Nothing fucking stupid happened. A valve didn't drop, the head bolts all were straight, and they didn't snap during the last turn. It's a fucken miracle.

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I get the alternator bracket on since it's not really in the way of anything, and start hunting for more out-of the way parts to put on. I need intake and exhaust studs, thermostat housing studs, and more cam carrier nuts. The oil dipstick tube goes on and gets tightened down, and I run a few studs in for the water pump. I have quite a large list of shit I need from the hardware store. The aux shaft comes out so I'll get some scotch brite at the store and get that clearanced so I can get the front timing cover on. I can't find the bolts for that anywhere so I'll have to hunt a bit when I finally get to that point. It's coming along! I need to also make a trip to sandblast my valve cover and A/C mount. Lots more to order and do, but I have some tiny things I can take care of for now.

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