Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

[matt b]

Nice improvement for sure. I like VP's stuff, there's no drama involved.

 

[sksmith]

VP is top-notch (as are Eric & Ian!).
Mattias at VP is very good to deal with. I still have in-laws in Charleston, so I usually plan a pick-up around trips down there.
Sure saved on shipping when I picked up my upholstery and exhaust system.

 

[Coupid]

Good god, whats the trick for getting these lower ball joints off? They are stamped "Volvo" and might be original. They don't want to leave their home no matter what I do with the loaner ball joint press from Orielly's.

 

[hiperfauto]

Hold the A arm by the end with the bushings and slam the ball joint stud onto a steel table, vice anvil or something similarly hard a few times until it pops out. This might be difficult if the stud is really floppy.

 

[Coupid]

Hold the A arm by the end with the bushings and slam the ball joint stud onto a steel table, vice anvil or something similarly hard a few times until it pops out. This might be difficult if the stud is really floppy.

there's something I hadn't thought of doing. Now to find an anvil!

 

[Jack]

picture you're smashing a 7/900 volvo roof, works for me eveytime

car is coming along nicely. Are you getting those control arms powder coated ?

also I got some better looking speaker covers. I;ll post some pictures

 

[sksmith]

Good god, whats the trick for getting these lower ball joints off? They are stamped "Volvo" and might be original. They don't want to leave their home no matter what I do with the loaner ball joint press from Orielly's.

Impact with a 3/4" impact socket (I think it's 3/4"?) on the ball joint remover that you rented from O'Reilly's.
Mine were original as well and I got them out in a minute or so using my impact.
Installation was a breeze also.
Steve

 

[matt b]

Is there a neighbor you don't really like ? Use the control arms to knock on their door. You know, just to say Hi like a good neighbor would.

 

[Coupid]

Hold the A arm by the end with the bushings and slam the ball joint stud onto a steel table, vice anvil or something similarly hard a few times until it pops out. This might be difficult if the stud is really floppy.

picture you're smashing a 7/900 volvo roof, works for me eveytime

car is coming along nicely. Are you getting those control arms powder coated ?

also I got some better looking speaker covers. I;ll post some pictures

Is there a neighbor you don't really like ? Use the control arms to knock on their door. You know, just to say Hi like a good neighbor would.

I had a S#$%$ day at work and when I came home tried this method. So easy and probably the most satisfying thing I've ever done on the car. Thanks guys!



If only the same method worked for the bushings lol

 

[Jack]

woop! nice


these are what you NEED

and shameless plug

aluminum everything

plastic frame, steel mesh (dusty)

 

[Coupid]

woop! nice


these are what you NEED

and shameless plug

Those are a lot nicer than the ones on the car. But the ****ty plastic jensen ones are original.


Holy **** that was overly complicated. Couldn't get the nut off so I cut it with a dremel below the mounting point. The bolt wouldn't go through that way so I started sectioning the nut with a dremel.

Then I just went to Sears and got an adaptor for my wireless impact gun and boom!

It's all ready to go but I still need to do the control arm bushings.

 

[Tfrasca]

Man, I'm about to do all my bushings and ball joints and am not looking forward to it. You have a press to put it all back together?

Also, I plan on welding a few gussets onto my sway bar mounts on the lower control arms. The ones on my 142 are fine, but that 144 I had briefly had cracks all around the stock welds. Just cut out some triangles from 1/8 or 3/16 plate and have them welding on.

 

[Jack]

dremels are for fling finger nails and model airplanes

you need one of these

 

[Coupid]

Man, I'm about to do all my bushings and ball joints and am not looking forward to it. You have a press to put it all back together?

Also, I plan on welding a few gussets onto my sway bar mounts on the lower control arms. The ones on my 142 are fine, but that 144 I had briefly had cracks all around the stock welds. Just cut out some triangles from 1/8 or 3/16 plate and have them welding on.

I?ll let you know if it was worth it once I get the car back on the ground. My sense is that it will transform the car. I have one of the c clamp presses and the newly discovered impact gun to drive it. Hopefully that does the trick. great point about the gussets, I?ve heard that is a weak point before. Too bad I can?t weld.

dremels are for fling finger nails and model airplanes

you need one of these

Very true! Then it wouldn?t have taken three days to not work lol

 

[Coupid]

I gave up after it took two evenings to get two LCA bushings out and I couldn't get the new ones to go in straight. Took the controls arms to the repair shop by my work and after some convincing got the awesome owner to break his rules about working on old cars, Volvos and using customer supplied parts... a few hours later and the new bushings were pressed in!

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.

I put what I thought were slightly taller front springs but they raised the front end up like 4 inches so I had to go back to the springs that were already in there.

All I have to do is put the swaybar and wheels back on and then I can go see how it drives!

 

[Jack]

get an alignment

 

[sksmith]

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.
QUOTE]

You should have it sitting with all of the vehicle weight on it when you torque the a-arms, ball joints, & tie rods. Without a lift, get a set of ramps and set it on them. Then you can torque everything correctly.
Definitely take it in for an alignment, as Jack has stated. The a-arm shims, if there were any, will be different when replacing 40 year old rubber bushings and ball joints. I didn't put any shims back in mine, I'll let the alignment shop do it once I get the engine & transmission back in.
Steve

 

[Tfrasca]

get an alignment

Putting the suspension back together was harder than I anticipated. Everything spun when I tried to torque the bolts down. Finally with enough pressure under the control arms and on the tie rods everything was back together.
QUOTE]

You should have it sitting with all of the vehicle weight on it when you torque the a-arms, ball joints, & tie rods. Without a lift, get a set of ramps and set it on them. Then you can torque everything correctly.
Definitely take it in for an alignment, as Jack has stated. The a-arm shims, if there were any, will be different when replacing 40 year old rubber bushings and ball joints. I didn't put any shims back in mine, I'll let the alignment shop do it once I get the engine & transmission back in.
Steve

I have asked a couple tire places around Santa Cruz if they'd do an alignment on my car and they both said absolutely not. Another alignment place said they thought they could but I would have to provide a shim set. Did you guys just have any old shop do the alignment?

 

[Jack]

I don’t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it

It’s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

 

[Coupid]

I don?t have that problem here even les Schwab can do it

It?s crazy I know adjusting more than toe

I'm on it!



All back together. Took the car out for a test drive. Needs an alignment for sure. Everything feels so tight and all the clunks are gone. What a PITA but the end result is worth it for sure! Can't wait to get the uppers done, get an alignment and new tires.

Thanks to everyone in the thread for the advice thus far