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Super high misalignment parts?

the poi

the poi

Has been
Joined
Jan 5, 2003
Location
Pasadena, CA
Any recommendations for M10 ball joints or rod ends with a ****load of misalignment? I'm trying to make a swaybar endlink, but I'm getting bind with two 24 degree rod ends. Heres a picture of what I had before:

85403592.jpg


It's a cut in half and coupled together stock guy, and I'm not comfortable with the longevity, mostly cause I'm welding reeeeal close to a grease filled ball joint.

Any suggestions for balljoints with an M10 stud? I could get some more with misalignment bushing but I don't want to go down to an M8 stud on the shock/swaybar, nor increase the tube to accommodate an M12 rod end (and the M12 rod ends have less motion anyway!)
 
Most people (including myself) just use normal spherical rod end joints ('rose' joints) for this.


I can understand you wanting to have them sealed to keep out water and road crud etc though. You can get these joints with nylon linings, supposedly to reduce wear, but I'm not so keen on them.

You can also get them with grease nipples as well, which might be a good idea?


Plenty of people run these on suspension joints of all kinds without a problem in much more highly loaded positions.

I'll see if I have a photo.

If you are running a very stiff ARB and you drive hard it might be worth going up in size from 10mm and using rolled thread bar because one side is nearly always going to be under tensile load?
 
Why don't you run high misalignment spacers? You'll have to go up to an M12 rod end to maintain an M10 through the eyelet, but it should give you more articulation.
 
How about using a rod end on one side and just not installing a jam nut, so that it can rotate around the stud if it needs to. It's not going anywhere.
 
Yeah I'd go the spacer route. I know aurora makes high misalignment rod ends, but its just a little bit more fancy than simple spacers.
 
K so after further development, I really really want to do this:

Poik said:
How about using a rod end on one side and just not installing a jam nut, so that it can rotate around the stud if it needs to. It's not going anywhere.
Click to expand...

Can I seriously do this? I'd be worried the wearing of the threads will blow something up. Maybe coat it with anti seize or grease and go with it? Thoughts?
 
I mean what's the worst that could happen if by some crazy unlikelyhood it broke? You wouldn't handle as flat until you fixed it?
 
If you're worried it might break, tether the strut end of the end link to the strut and try it. That way if it breaks, it's not getting wrapped up in the tire/wheel/suspension while hopping a kerb 3 clicks into a lap at the ring.
 
Poik said:
I mean what's the worst that could happen if by some crazy unlikelyhood it broke? You wouldn't handle as flat until you fixed it?
Click to expand...


Problem is if it breaks it is most likely to break while hard cornering upsetting the balance of the vehicle unsafely.
 
why not move the tab out a bit on the strut to get some more freedom? or run the misalignment spacer from the swaybar...... or sillier yet, go do something insane like putting a bearing in the middle of the freeking link to allow it to turn freely :p
 
My hiems would turn in the radius arms on my bronco for years. But they are slightly larger. 1.25" lol.

I don't see why it wouldnt work.
 
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