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B230f+t

DaButcher

DaButcher

Do a Burnout!
Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Location
Bergen, Norway
B230f+t - CLT from 240?

Hi,

When doing the B230F+T, can one use the CLT from the B230F?

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Engine Temperature Sensors. The B230F of the vintage discussed, 1989-1995 have in effect three temp sensors: the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT)- which has two sensors in one housing - and the temperature gauge sensor. Two NTC thermistors are combined in one ECT sensor housing with two connectors and ground through the housing into the manifold. One of the temp sensor "signals" goes to the LH fuel injection computer, the other to the EZK ignition computer. The third temp sensor is the one used by the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. It also has two connectors, one "signal", one "ground". For resistance ratings, see the link noted. The gauge sensor is at the front under intake manifold runner number two, just ahead of the knock sensor which is bolted in at an angle. Behind the knock sensor under manifold runner three is the ECT.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When you remove any of the sensors, disconnect the battery negative cable.
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Then there is also the info:
http://www.nuceng.ca/workspace/Volvo FAQ Site/EngineSensors.html#DiagnosingECTFailures

I have to try to diagnose why there is black smoke in the exhaust (and heavy smell of fuel).
It's running all 940t parts.. 940T ecu (chipped) and 240 N/A EZK chipped (563 ECU and 146 EZK).

The lambda might be bad.. but are the ECT values the same for the 89' 240 w/ b230f, as the ~~90 b230ft? I read on that site that there is three sensors in t he b230f, is this compatible with the 940t ECU?
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Ok, have some new ideas to test now:
1: test another AMM - Made no change
2: try to disconnect the cold start injector (it's +t)
3: measure CLT sensor as per the link above
4: sniff for fuel in the vacuum for the fpr I could smell fuel, but can this be due to already excessive mixture?
5: try to swear at the car I have done this too, but it didnt work.
 
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Leave the Cold start as Many a turbo cars came with Coldstart and LH should work just fine with it.

I would for sure check the FPR and the AMM as being bad. the CLT is another good thing to check the resistance
 
thelostartof said:
Leave the Cold start as Many a turbo cars came with Coldstart and LH should work just fine with it.

I would for sure check the FPR and the AMM as being bad. the CLT is another good thing to check the resistance
Click to expand...
Yes, I have checked the vacuum for the FPR and it smelled like fuel.
However, that might be because the excessive rich mixture?

I tried to unplug the fpr vacuum while idling and it didnt drip fuel out the nipple.

Also, we swapped AMM and we put back the FK OEM chip.
It still smokes, a bit less though, so now it's at least drivable.

Will try to swap the O2 sensor, since the current one is an aftermarket part,with bad reputation.

The excessive fuel might have been with E85 too, but less noticable on E85 I guess. (no smoke, also E85 rich mixture I guess is not too bad for emissions?).
 
oh btw.. after swapping back to OEM fuel chip, it was smoke-free for a little while.. then it smoked again.
Which leads me to belive it should be a sensor fault, not mechanical?
 
Got some fault codes btw, but they are pretty useless:
2-3-2*
Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle }If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector } various driving problems

1-1-3*
Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich Mixture incorrect; O2S wiring fault High fuel consumption

Next step will be swapping the O2 sensor, with an OEM one.

eg. they tell me what I know.. rich mixture :p Will se if they both disappear with the OEM O2 sensor.
 
15A said:
What words did you use and did you mix them with any others? I have found this does make a HUGE difference.

:-P
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I tried:
FAEN I HELVETTE!

(god damn it in hell).

But, I must say.. I sweared not due to the exhaust gasses, but more so because I hit my head on the sharp edge of the trunk lid :-P
 
Even if the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have fuel leaking. It may still be bad. Especially if it's a pretty old one. When they go bad the fuel pressure is raised which causes a rich mixture. My friends 92 245 just had this issue. The regulator looked fine other than looking old. But it was bad causing a very rich mixture.
 
dl242gt said:
Even if the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have fuel leaking. It may still be bad. Especially if it's a pretty old one. When they go bad the fuel pressure is raised which causes a rich mixture. My friends 92 245 just had this issue. The regulator looked fine other than looking old. But it was bad causing a very rich mixture.
Click to expand...
hm, ok.. maybe we can borrow one to test. thx for the tip :)
 
Have untill now tested:
* Other set of injectors (no difference)
* Measured ohm on resistorpack (was ok)
* Measured between different injector plugs (to check for short) - none found
* Swapped AMM for another unit (no difference)
* Swapped FPR (no difference)
* Removed the O2 wires and started car, still smokes out exhaust at idle

So, what's left I guess is:
* try to swap O2 sensor
* maybe look for an intake leak? maybe leaky IC, hoses? leaky hose at idle motor maybe?

the issue is just at idle I think and it seems to hold boost fine, so I hope the culprit is the idle motor hose which goes up to the intake. I havent tried with start gas yet, maybe tomorrow.. Now it's beer and prison break time.
 
Have measured the O2 resistance between + and - wire, it's within spec.
Have also measured the CLT sensor, but it has the right OHM vs. temp. Measured it from both ECU plug, as well as from the CLT sensor it self.

Found no vacuum leaks while spraying start gas.

Tried measuring the volt output from the O2 sensor, but my digital voltmeter said it was 0.15 and even though I upped the rev's (car in standstill), it was barely moving.

So, now I have bought and fitted an lambda sensor gauge, which I hope will tell me that the O2 sensor is gone :-)
 
oh btw. 2-3-2 rearrives INSTANTLY after starting the car. (excessive rich at idle).
Does anyone know if I can test the N/A ECU with turbo chip in it (it's from the same generation ECU)?

eg. is the injector size, etc. in the fuel chip it self, or in the LH2.4 ECU?
 
This monologue is now complete :-)
I disconnected the old O2 sensor and spliced the wiring where it had been lengthened before.
Turned out that one of the old wires where not very good attatched.

Since the O2 sensor was an aftermarket brand, I fit an used Bosch unit instead.
Then the gauge started moving :-) So I took it for a test drive and WOOT, the smoke was gone.

Then I once again chipped the fuel ecu with thelostartof's chip.
It works now, wee.. accellerates much better.

We are running the +t on 0.7 bar now (10psi), due to N/A clutch.
 
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