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(Not*) Mediocre 242

I wanted to add paddle shifters as another shifting option and to see what they feel like. Unfortunately, 240s don't have a usable clock spring and there isn't much room to put column mounted paddle switches under the trim. So I made a clock spring. I used the ribbon conductor from a Toyota Camry because it was cheap on ebay. It's barely noticeable and I'm pretty happy with how it looks. I did have to add a relay for the horn as the resistance through the ribbon conductors was a bit high. I could have used the stock slip ring for the horn, but wanted it all to go through the clock spring to minimize connectors in the steering wheel hub. The horn seems to work fine now with the relay, and the paddle signals register properly to my transmission controller. I also made the extra buttons on my steering wheel pad work with the clock spring, but I haven't decided what to use them for yet.

The clock spring is printed a nylon/carbon fiber composite and shouldn't have any issues with temperature or strength. It does add a little extra sound when turning the steering wheel but I'm sure I won't notice it when the engine is on.

I haven't driven the car yet with paddles as the engine is a bit taken apart in prep for some other modifications.

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t8fanning said:
It does add a little extra sound when turning the steering wheel but I'm sure I won't notice it when the engine is on.
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Neat! You can hear yourself think when the engine is on?

t8fanning said:
I haven't driven the car yet with paddles as the engine is a bit taken apart in prep for some other modifications.
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how much cam can a swedish 531 support?!

Looking forward to seeing how things go for you this "season". Impressed with how many irons you have in the fire.. and happy to maybe latch on and benefit from some (pulley) :)
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Neat! You can hear yourself think when the engine is on?


how much cam can a swedish 531 support?!

Looking forward to seeing how things go for you this "season". Impressed with how many irons you have in the fire.. and happy to maybe latch on and benefit from some (pulley) :)
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My car honestly really isn't too loud. Guess we'll see how that changes.

I've got a 3D printer, might as well use it.
 
@Stiggy Pop you probably will want to see this.

I got my new Erland special head on and finally got around to tuning it a bit today. It's good, but I still have more work to do. There are a few spots I'm having issues with still.

Here's a dyno plot of the two heads making the same power. The red line is the Erland head with 46/38mm valves and a big cam and the blue line is the old head with 48/40mm valves and an RSI stage 3 cam:
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The new head makes the same power at 6 psi less boost, and has the torque come in almost 1000 RPM sooner.

Here's a dyno plot of the two heads at the same boost. Again, the red line is the Erland head and the blue line is the old head:
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The torque difference at 4900 RPM is pretty impressive. Those 100 extra ft-lbs are going to feel nice.

This new head really isn't too happy right off idle due to the hog cam, but once it gets some RPM it really picks it up and my turbo spools noticeably quicker.

I would have taken the car further and made 600+ whp, but I've started running into fuel pressure issues, which is why I didn't take it to the rev limiter in the dyno plot. I think I need to finally get an aftermarket fuel filter, and maybe upgrade the stock hard lines to -6 AN. I don't really want to upgrade the fuel lines, but I don't mind getting a higher flow filter. I do want to get to 650ish whp though so something will have to be done to fix my fuel pressure drop.

I meant to take some dyno videos but got caught up in the fuel pressure issue and didn't end up taking any.

I'm also planning on making some kind of custom fuel pump hanger since I need a more reliable fuel level sensor. Mine left me stranded the other day. Luckily I was within walking distance of my house. I'm also debating whether or not I should get some kind of surge tank (which I don't want to do) to get more fuel pump in the system.
 
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t8fanning said:
The new head makes the same power at 6 psi less boost, and has the torque come in almost 1000 RPM sooner.
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WOW. Those are great results!

t8fanning said:
This new head really isn't too happy right off idle due to the hog cam, but once it gets some RPM it really picks it up and my turbo spools noticeably quicker.
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That is definitely what I have found as well.

I'm glad this is backing up what I have only felt on my butt dyno, you should share results with Erland he'll be interested. I think this should be filed under "bigger valves aren't always better" in the 8v encyclopedia.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
WOW. Those are great results!


That is definitely what I have found as well.

I'm glad this is backing up what I have only felt on my butt dyno, you should share results with Erland he'll be interested. I think this should be filed under "bigger valves aren't always better" in the 8v encyclopedia.
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blkaplan said:
Wow, those are some epic numbers. My hat is off to you.
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Thanks, it's not quite where I want it to be yet. It shouldn't be a problem once I figure out the fuel pressure issue.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
… I think this should be filed under "bigger valves aren't always better" in the 8v encyclopedia.
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I think it’s more that the smallest cross sectional area in the 48/40 RSI head is the same size as what I port race 44/35 valve heads to, as well as the need for chamber reshaping.

And agreed, those are awesome numbers! Big cam turbos FTW!!!!
 
I did the first step in addressing my fueling issues today.

I made a new 1/2" stainless hard line that pretty much mimics the stock kjet fuel feed hard line I had on my car. I also replaced the stock fuel filter with a Radium filter since they're easy to get where I am and I was in there. It was not a fun job, and I will not be remaking the stock return hard line. I don't really like how I have that 180° from the fuel pressure regulator to the stock return hard line, but oh well. I don't really want to mess with it and it's worked fine for years.

I used the stock fuel line metal brackets and 3d printed some bushings with a larger bore to accommodate the larger diameter tube. I used 95A TPU. It's not as soft as I wish it was, but I think it'll work. The line I made doesn't quite match up to the stock line, so one of the mounts isn't fully seated against the body, but I don't think it'll cause any problems. The feed line feels really solid.

There is -6 AN hose from the fuel pump outlet to the new hard line and from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. I don't think changing the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail will gain me much since the fuel rail bore is relatively small. However, if this new hard line and filter doesn't fix my fuel pressure drop I will put a bigger fuel pump in the tank with a new hanger and make a -8 AN line from the fuel pump to the new hard line.

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From what I can recall about fluid mechanics years ago, when L/D > 200, then line loss is significant. Sure looks like the old line was there. I presume you have tubing benders and that is how you achieved the nice radii ? Well done.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Seamless stainless? Not a cheap piece of tube!
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Not too terrible from a local supply place.
DET17 said:
From what I can recall about fluid mechanics years ago, when L/D > 200, then line loss is significant. Sure looks like the old line was there. I presume you have tubing benders and that is how you achieved the nice radii ? Well done.
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I borrowed a Ridgid 1/2" tubing bender and it really made the job possible. Couldn't have done it without that. I have a Ridgid flaring tool that I also used.
 
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