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Redrilling hubs/rotors for new bolt pattern

kendogg said:
So you mean tap the hubs and use BMW type lug-studs, or a thread-in lug like we'd install into the tapped holes on the BMW's?? Seems pointless, just get press-in studs, WAY cheaper, and no worry of not getting the threads perfect (if doing this at home).
Click to expand...

They are essentially bolts, they thread in from the back.


And there is a point to doing it that way. The point is that 114.3 is a larger PCD than 108. So you can drill a smaller hole in order to keep the same amount of meat around the bolt hole. If you drill holes big enough for a large knurl, the amount of material around the outer edge of the hole gets thin.

Threaded bolts are not more expensive, in fact i think they might be cheaper (I used moroso), and the issue of accuracy is irrelevant.

If you're seriously so clumsy that threading the holes is a deal breaker, don't bother doing it.

This picture explains the issue. You could use a small knurl I guess but might as well just thread it.

large.jpg
 
kendogg said:
So you mean tap the hubs and use BMW type lug-studs, or a thread-in lug like we'd install into the tapped holes on the BMW's?? Seems pointless, just get press-in studs, WAY cheaper, and no worry of not getting the threads perfect (if doing this at home).
Click to expand...

Good quality (not cheap Autozone / Kragen / Pepboy ) press in studs are not cheap....

Nothing wrong with the tapped holes if done correctly, BMW, Porsche, Audi and others have been doing it for years
 
Mueller said:
Good quality (not cheap Autozone / Kragen / Pepboy ) press in studs are not cheap....

Nothing wrong with the tapped holes if done correctly, BMW, Porsche, Audi and others have been doing it for years
Click to expand...

Not really sure why you say that, they're $2 each from Pelican Parts. Find me studs for that price. Buying a stud kit (I actually have a spare set of these off my E36) are ~$160 new from VAC. I get the part as stated above by Captain Bondo though about needing a larger diameter hole for the knurled end of the stud. I guess it depends on how much room there is on my 960 hubs vs what looks to be a 240 in his sig pic.

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---e36--e46-all-inc-m3-wheel-stud-kit-20-studs--nuts-p1739.aspx


http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...0 Per Car) phased out 06/08, 960 (1992-97)
 
Mueller said:
Good quality (not cheap Autozone / Kragen / Pepboy ) press in studs are not cheap....

Nothing wrong with the tapped holes if done correctly, BMW, Porsche, Audi and others have been doing it for years
Click to expand...

You still don't get it. It's a bolt that threads in form the back side, with a head on it. You aren't actually relying on the threads in the hub to bear any tensile load.

They're not like and engine stud. They're bolts really.
46200_part.jpg
 
kendogg said:
Then why thread them in the first place?
Click to expand...

Because it allows you to drill a smaller hole in the hub than you could using a knurled stud and therefore have more material left around the outside edge. Again I already explained this and posted a picture to illustrate.

Like I said, you could probably squeak by with the smallest knurl size on a 1/2 stud, which requires a ~0.554" hole, minimum. But you really need to drill the hole and then ream it to size anyways. For me, I preferred to run a tap through, and maximize the amount of remaining material in the hub.

If you think you have a better way, then do that. I'm simply explaining the method that I actually did, that worked for me, and my reasoning for doing it that way.
 
Captain Bondo said:
Because it allows you to drill a smaller hole in the hub than you could using a knurled stud and therefore have more material left around the outside edge. Again I already explained this and posted a picture to illustrate.

Like I said, you could probably squeak by with the smallest knurl size on a 1/2 stud, which requires a ~0.554" hole, minimum. But you really need to drill the hole and then ream it to size anyways. For me, I preferred to run a tap through, and maximize the amount of remaining material in the hub.

If you think you have a better way, then do that. I'm simply explaining the method that I actually did, that worked for me, and my reasoning for doing it that way.
Click to expand...

No, no, thanks for explaining it for me. I didn't quite get it is all. :)
 
Captain Bondo said:
You still don't get it. It's a bolt that threads in form the back side, with a head on it. You aren't actually relying on the threads in the hub to bear any tensile load.

They're not like and engine stud. They're bolts really.
46200_part.jpg
Click to expand...

I didn't realize you used that style of screw-in stud...still nothing wrong with the other style if material is thick enough...
 
Mueller said:
I didn't realize you used that style of screw-in stud...still nothing wrong with the other style if material is thick enough...
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It's not really thick enough, IMO, at least on a 240 hub.

Kendogg,

Ok no worries. :)
 
Mueller said:
I wouldn't do it with the stock Volvo parts !!!
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Well then obviously you can use whatever studs and bolt pattern you want at that point.

The whole point here was re drilling existing hubs. Not many people can machine new parts entirely, but lot of people could make a basic jig and redrill their own hubs with basic hand tools.
 
kendogg and Captain Bondo, did you change your brakes rotors or do you just redrill them too? this is what i am thinking about doing to get those 5x114.3 conquest wheels to fit.
 
IBGPN said:
kendogg and Captain Bondo, did you change your brakes pads or do you just redrill them too? this is what i am thinking about doing to get those 5x114.3 conquest wheels to fit.
Click to expand...

You mean rotors. If you're re-drilling your hubs for a different bolt pattern, yes, you'll either need to find a rotor with the same dimensions (thickness, diameter, hat depth, etc.) with the bolt pattern you need, or re-drill a set of stock rotors.
 
haha! yeah thats what i meant, you answered before i got the edit done. so which did you do? did you find a set that fit or do you just redrill every brake change?
 
IBGPN said:
haha! yeah thats what i meant, you answered before i got the edit done. so which did you do? did you find a set that fit or do you just redrill every brake change?
Click to expand...

I haven't done anything yet, I hurt my back Tuesday, was hoping to be feeling well enough to yank a wheel off today and rotate my tires, and measure the diameter of the hubs to see if the 5x120 patter is even possible, but.....
 
not very. thats why i asked if they just redrilled them or if the found some that will match up. i will probably just redrill some brand new ones and be done with it.
 
IBGPN said:
kendogg and Captain Bondo, did you change your brakes rotors or do you just redrill them too? this is what i am thinking about doing to get those 5x114.3 conquest wheels to fit.
Click to expand...

I bought a Brembo Big Brake kit for a Mustang and adapted the calipers, and I use a ford explorer rear end. So my brakes are all ford stuff. Cheap and no redrilling.

P8060804.jpg
 
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