OttoB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
I can't say anything about their tune. There wasn't no evidence of lambda sensor.I don't know. Are you sure their engines were powerful and well tuned?
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I can't say anything about their tune. There wasn't no evidence of lambda sensor.I don't know. Are you sure their engines were powerful and well tuned?
Equal length is important for instagram points and billing more time to customers who buy custom headers. For the average RWD Volvo enjoyer, they're not gonna know the difference in runner length on their 50 year old tractor engine with a poorly street tuned megasquirt anyhow.How important is equal length? I don't know, maybe Porsche knows better. And designed this for Lemans Flat 12 Turbo.
I for one would love it if you cranked out some flanges, can you also do a stainless b230 8 valve flange while you're at it? Or mild....the one I got from yoshifab arrived very warped. Little bit butt hurt about it.Would there be any interest in these? I should have some stock to do billet flanges with a nice transition from oval to round and some schedule 10 weld els. Fully back purged 304ss
As for warping… good luck. Best results I’ve had have been from bolting down to a junk head clamped over a 1/16 rod at each runner with a tin foil gasket, or opting for a two pass run. Full purge, at 7-9cfh fusion, no filler and fast fusion, being sure to not outrun my cup. Then drink a beer and drop dabs in the same manner. Fast fill, don’t overheat, bounce around strategically and don’t outrun the cup.Here's where I'm at with the "stock" style header I'm making. Quotes because it's not really stock, in that the oil feed and drain likely do not fit the same (with a stock 13c). Not bad for a first try id say. Waiting till I have access to a thick table to weld it all up, so i can clamp it down and hopefully avoid warping.
No filler is a good idea, though I do have a few spots where the gap is probably juuuuust a little towards needing quick dab to keep things meshing.As for warping… good luck. Best results I’ve had have been from bolting down to a junk head clamped over a 1/16 rod at each runner with a tin foil gasket, or opting for a two pass run. Full purge, at 7-9cfh fusion, no filler and fast fusion, being sure to not outrun my cup. Then drink a beer and drop dabs in the same manner. Fast fill, don’t overheat, bounce around strategically and don’t outrun the cup.
Would you like a purge flange? I could whip up one to rent. A solid 1.5-2” thick 6061 aluminum chiller block.
My junk head is so junk I can't even clamp it down without drilling and tapping (facepalm)As for warping… good luck. Best results I’ve had have been from bolting down to a junk head clamped over a 1/16 rod at each runner with a tin foil gasket, or opting for a two pass run. Full purge, at 7-9cfh fusion, no filler and fast fusion, being sure to not outrun my cup. Then drink a beer and drop dabs in the same manner. Fast fill, don’t overheat, bounce around strategically and don’t outrun the cup.
Would you like a purge flange? I could whip up one to rent. A solid 1.5-2” thick 6061 aluminum chiller block.
I could probably do two bottles, could sorta sneakily do it at work.So I have a chunk of 1.5x3x20 6061 aluminum. Basically I’d run the b230 head bolt pattern in it, with a 1/4npt fitting at each runner. You could bolt your flange to it, and weld it up. With that you’d need a dual regulator or two bottles. I could rent you a purge block and the regulator if you want. It might be a week or two to turn out the block.