Using a non turbo lower with a turbo head

[Bungcheez3r]

Since you have patience, be patient until you can find a 1993-95 B230FT. You will have everything you need. It will be much cheaper and reliable from the start. 400 HP is about the limit with one of these using the stock lower end parts. It will have the correct compression ratio for what you are trying to do and will also have the 13mm rods, oil squirters and will already be set up with an oil return for the Turbo that is already on it.

Yeah, that sounds like my best bet. I might try checking out pick and pulls and some other auto dismantlers and just work on other parts of the car until then. Glad I asked, Frankensteining the engine probably would’ve had me in over my head.

 

[2manyturbos]

car-part.com is a wrecking yard search engine that will help you find what you’re looking for.

 

[740atl]

I'm sure you've already thought of it, but do you have the rest of your drivetrain upgrades in order for the power output you're looking for? Realize that nothing that originally came behind the b230 will survive for long at elevated power levels. There are ways to mitigate drivetrain failures of course but if you haven't thought of it before, now's the time.

 

[Bungcheez3r]

I'm sure you've already thought of it, but do you have the rest of your drivetrain upgrades in order for the power output you're looking for? Realize that nothing that originally came behind the b230 will survive for long at elevated power levels. There are ways to mitigate drivetrain failures of course but if you haven't thought of it before, now's the time.

Yes, I still need to research what I can keep and what I gotta get rid of, I know I want to replace the driveshaft and differential, and transmission swap it, but I haven’t really researched passed that

 

[lookforjoe]

The driveshaft and rear end are not so critical, depending on how hard you are on launches, etc., Many have run over 300WHP on stock DS & rear end. The transmission would be more of a pressing concern.

 

[Bungcheez3r]

The driveshaft and rear end are not so critical, depending on how hard you are on launches, etc., Many have run over 300WHP on stock DS & rear end. The transmission would be more of a pressing concern.

For sure, I wanted to make sure I had the car as reliable as possible so I could eventually feel comfortable taking it out more often, but yes the transmission is definitely a big concern for me. I’m looking into getting a cd009, yoshifab sells kits and adapters to mount it. Another thing is the fuel injection system, I’m not sure if it’ll meet my needs.

 

[Wilford Brimley]

I would definitely

For sure, I wanted to make sure I had the car as reliable as possible so I could eventually feel comfortable taking it out more often, but yes the transmission is definitely a big concern for me. I’m looking into getting a cd009, yoshifab sells kits and adapters to mount it. Another thing is the fuel injection system, I’m not sure if it’ll meet my needs.

It won't, not stock

 

[Bungcheez3r]

Since you have patience, be patient until you can find a 1993-95 B230FT. You will have everything you need. It will be much cheaper and reliable from the start. 400 HP is about the limit with one of these using the stock lower end parts. It will have the correct compression ratio for what you are trying to do and will also have the 13mm rods, oil squirters and will already be set up with an oil return for the Turbo that is already on it.

Are the 740 and 940 engines of the same year identical or are there any key differences I should be concerned about? Finally found a 92 b230ft but its out of a 740. Also I noticed you said 93-95, I tried to find out but it would be great if you could help me find what differences are in that block compared to the newer ones.

 

[2manyturbos]

Are the 740 and 940 engines of the same year identical or are there any key differences I should be concerned about? Finally found a 92 b230ft but its out of a 740. Also I noticed you said 93-95, I tried to find out but it would be great if you could help me find what differences are in that block compared to the newer ones.

A 92 B230FT is a good choice. In the same model year, the 740 and 940 engines are the same. The reason I said look for 93-95 is they are the best of the B230FTs. They have the oil squirters. 1990 and newer B230FTs have the 13mm connecting rods. 89 and older B230FTs have the 9mm connecting rods. I would not bother with one of those engines.

 

[Bungcheez3r]

A 92 B230FT is a good choice. In the same model year, the 740 and 940 engines are the same. The reason I said look for 93-95 is they are the best of the B230FTs. They have the oil squirters. 1990 and newer B230FTs have the 13mm connecting rods. 89 and older B230FTs have the 9mm connecting rods. I would not bother with one of those engines.

Sounds good, and I'm assuming I can reuse the same wiring harness and turbo manifold? Or will I need to purchase those as well? I'm planning on just buying the engine itself to cut costs as much as I can.

 

[2manyturbos]

Buy the engine complete with the turbo and exhaust manifold. The 90 and newer exhaust manifold is a better design. You will use your 88 engine harness, distributor and ECT sensor. Do not forget to change the 1992 engine ECT sensor to the type for your 88. The engine will barely run if you forget to do that.

 

[8DOM8S8AN]

Yeah, that sounds like my best bet. I might try checking out pick and pulls and some other auto dismantlers and just work on other parts of the car until then. Glad I asked, Frankensteining the engine probably would’ve had me in over my head.

You should just buy cheap H-beams for these power levels and use your stock 88 B230FT. Trying to find a squirter block is wasted effort if you ask me.
If you decide to install such rods just make sure the small end and big end are both round and have correct clearance to piston pin and crankshaft bearings respectively. Any machining shop can check this for you easily.

Those 13mm rods bend easily, even a TD04HL19T generates enough torque on your engine to bend rods. Of course the engine can be setup to deliver less torque but why risk it. I'm not sure how cheap conrods are these days, but used to be less than 300USD for a set of 4

 

[mikep]

13mm rods do not bend easily. Even 9mm can take some abuse, and have done so.
They are $300-500 depending on who sources them. Quality varies a bit. Usually not shipped with bolts, or with junk bolts. The ebay people had B230 and B23 lengths confused, but last week they all looked ok. The B23 rods Towery bought way back are good, but .004" shorter than stock.
*edit: cx racing rods are still listed backwards on amazon. I would be very careful making sure the dimensions are correct. i.e. go to Yoshifab, get correct B230 rods for stock height or LS height.

 

[Wilford Brimley]

You should just buy cheap H-beams for these power levels and use your stock 88 B230FT. Trying to find a squirter block is wasted effort if you ask me.
If you decide to install such rods just make sure the small end and big end are both round and have correct clearance to piston pin and crankshaft bearings respectively. Any machining shop can check this for you easily.

Those 13mm rods bend easily, even a TD04HL19T generates enough torque on your engine to bend rods. Of course the engine can be setup to deliver less torque but why risk it. I'm not sure how cheap conrods are these days, but used to be less than 300USD for a set of 4

I mean you can bend these rods easy if you're not tuned right, otherwise the 13mm can take some ok pah

 

[VolvoGuy123]

You can always just buy my car. lol.

 

[thelostartof]

You should just buy cheap H-beams for these power levels and use your stock 88 B230FT. Trying to find a squirter block is wasted effort if you ask me.
If you decide to install such rods just make sure the small end and big end are both round and have correct clearance to piston pin and crankshaft bearings respectively. Any machining shop can check this for you easily.

Those 13mm rods bend easily, even a TD04HL19T generates enough torque on your engine to bend rods. Of course the engine can be setup to deliver less torque but why risk it. I'm not sure how cheap conrods are these days, but used to be less than 300USD for a set of 4

What kind of setup bends 13mm rods on a 19t? I ran 23psi daily on a 19t for a few years without to many issues. The 13mm rods can take a ton of abuse as long as you keep good fuel and the timing close to correct.

Without reading the entire thread, if you are going for 300bhp stock 93+ block is fine, 300whp, still fine. 400bhp i would say still just fine as long as you keep good fuel and proper timing, even at 400whp I would say the same if you are doing the above, anything over that means you have spent some real $ on the car to make that kind of power so you might as well put a proper lower end on the car. I was running 27psi daily in 110+ deg summer heat on a holset with the stock rods on ethanol and she didn't seem to mind. That motor and those rods and pistons (well I changed #3 because of the impact damage) are still running to this day as a DD in another car.

 

[8DOM8S8AN]

What kind of setup bends 13mm rods on a 19t? I ran 23psi daily on a 19t for a few years without to many issues. The 13mm rods can take a ton of abuse as long as you keep good fuel and the timing close to correct.

I guess it shouldn't bend but I had a B230ET with 13mm rods, 19T and some goodies where the 4th piston was a bit below deck after dissassembly, ran ok for some years tho. But my point was that just sticking with the original block and investing in H-beam rods is probably going to get more bang for your buck.

 

[thelostartof]

At this age of these motors it might not be a bad idea to do a refresh I get it. All depends on their goals. If you are keeping a stock head and say manifolds then it might be pointless to spend the $ and time on rods and pistons. If you are spending the extra $3k+ on a proper flowing top end then another 1k for the lower end might make sense.