Alex Buchka
8 cylinders
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2004
- Location
- Los Angeles
I know this is long winded but please bear with me here.
Quick run down of the specs:
b5234t 2.3l DOHC inline-5,
MSnS-Extra 029v on a V3 pcb,
dual trigger setup with 60-2 wheel + VR on the crank and 1 tooth wheel + hall effect sensor on the cam.
I set it up to drive 5 S80 T6 COP ignition coils with built in ignition modules that fire when pulled to +5v.
I've been having nothing but trouble with the rpm signal from the 60-2 wheel. The tooth logger in megatunix has been showing some very strange trigger events. The norm seems to be I crank the engine over and I see what appears to be the missing tooth, then 4-10 regular teeth, one more long tooth time almost exactly the same as the first one, 4-10 regular teeth, then one more long tooth, then anything from 30-80 short ones, then the insanity starts all over again.
I've reflashed the MS probably 5 times just to be sure I got it right, I have also gone over the settings for the wheel decoder 10 times and I'm very sure I have trigger times and such set right. Sometimes during cranking a it will read a clean missing tooth and start firing the plugs in the exact right order (verified by someone standing next to the engine bay looking at exposed spark plugs grounded on the engine), then the goofy sync behavior starts and the spark will drop out or behave erratically.
The VR and hall sensors are stock, in a completely stock configuration exactly as Volvo arranged them from the factory. I have triple and quadruple checked all the wiring to the sensors and I'm positive it's correct, I've also swapped all the sensors for other known good ones with no differing results. I've verified the function of the additional opto-isolator circuit for the second trigger and it delivers a perfect squarewave 0-5v signal to JS8 on the V3 pcb.
I wired up 6 LED's on the case of the MS; one connected to the output of the opto-isolator so I can see when the tooth is under the sensor and 5 more connected to the ignition outputs arranged in firing order so i can clearly see which outputs are working.
At first I thought it was cross talk between the wiring so I ran a new shielded wire from the VR to the MS outside the car, as far away from the other wires as possible, this made no difference.
I borrowed an old tektronix analogue scope from Adam (AHox244+t) to see what the signal looked like. I had never used a scope before but after some stumbling around I got the hang of it. The raw VR signal from the sensor looks proper and I can clearly see the missing tooth in the wave form with no apparent noise. I also scoped the signal coming out of the VR conditioner on the pcb and it looks very good, once again the missing tooth is clearly displayed with none of the strange behavior noted in the tooth logger.
I attempted to fiddle with the trim pots to see if it would make a difference. Chris Wiita (The poi) is running MS on his 960 with an identical VR/wheel arrangement and he mentioned leaving the pots turned fully CCW gave best results. After looking at the signal on the scope I agree with this. Turning the lower pot more than 3 turns made the signal vanish completely and turning the upper pot (closest to the FET's) had no noticeable effect.
I've verified all the components on the pcb are correct according to the BOM. I'm really at my wits end here. Any advice is appreciated.
Quick run down of the specs:
b5234t 2.3l DOHC inline-5,
MSnS-Extra 029v on a V3 pcb,
dual trigger setup with 60-2 wheel + VR on the crank and 1 tooth wheel + hall effect sensor on the cam.
I set it up to drive 5 S80 T6 COP ignition coils with built in ignition modules that fire when pulled to +5v.
I've been having nothing but trouble with the rpm signal from the 60-2 wheel. The tooth logger in megatunix has been showing some very strange trigger events. The norm seems to be I crank the engine over and I see what appears to be the missing tooth, then 4-10 regular teeth, one more long tooth time almost exactly the same as the first one, 4-10 regular teeth, then one more long tooth, then anything from 30-80 short ones, then the insanity starts all over again.
I've reflashed the MS probably 5 times just to be sure I got it right, I have also gone over the settings for the wheel decoder 10 times and I'm very sure I have trigger times and such set right. Sometimes during cranking a it will read a clean missing tooth and start firing the plugs in the exact right order (verified by someone standing next to the engine bay looking at exposed spark plugs grounded on the engine), then the goofy sync behavior starts and the spark will drop out or behave erratically.
The VR and hall sensors are stock, in a completely stock configuration exactly as Volvo arranged them from the factory. I have triple and quadruple checked all the wiring to the sensors and I'm positive it's correct, I've also swapped all the sensors for other known good ones with no differing results. I've verified the function of the additional opto-isolator circuit for the second trigger and it delivers a perfect squarewave 0-5v signal to JS8 on the V3 pcb.
I wired up 6 LED's on the case of the MS; one connected to the output of the opto-isolator so I can see when the tooth is under the sensor and 5 more connected to the ignition outputs arranged in firing order so i can clearly see which outputs are working.
At first I thought it was cross talk between the wiring so I ran a new shielded wire from the VR to the MS outside the car, as far away from the other wires as possible, this made no difference.
I borrowed an old tektronix analogue scope from Adam (AHox244+t) to see what the signal looked like. I had never used a scope before but after some stumbling around I got the hang of it. The raw VR signal from the sensor looks proper and I can clearly see the missing tooth in the wave form with no apparent noise. I also scoped the signal coming out of the VR conditioner on the pcb and it looks very good, once again the missing tooth is clearly displayed with none of the strange behavior noted in the tooth logger.
I attempted to fiddle with the trim pots to see if it would make a difference. Chris Wiita (The poi) is running MS on his 960 with an identical VR/wheel arrangement and he mentioned leaving the pots turned fully CCW gave best results. After looking at the signal on the scope I agree with this. Turning the lower pot more than 3 turns made the signal vanish completely and turning the upper pot (closest to the FET's) had no noticeable effect.
I've verified all the components on the pcb are correct according to the BOM. I'm really at my wits end here. Any advice is appreciated.